Engine Flush

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As a preventive, a cold 5-10 minute flush every 3-4 oil changes would eliminate any sludge from forming and remove any that has. This assumes that you are doing a reasonable OCI and not every 20k miles.

Kerosene and biodiesel are probably the best concerning cost. 1 gallon of either for <$5 would provide four good flushes ~12k mile intervals. Thats ~$10 split over ~100k miles.
 
Either use Auto-RX or Lube Control. Just the other day someone at work asked me about any products that might fix a main seal??? I pointed them to Auto-Rx becasue it works, is safe and might fix their seal leak. Not to many products that can clean and repair seals with out doing any further damage. Lube Control can clean and extend oil change interval but it will not fix a main seal.
 
"Anyway the other day while cleaning my greasy hands with the hand cleaner GOOP I wondered how well it would clean an engine. Any thoughts?"

Try products on stove or oven parts first. A lot of chemicals seem to clean sludge / gunk etc., but few will clean stuff that's been baked on. 'Citrus' hand cleaners seem to be based around citric acid, some have pumice, and while they work well on grease they don't work on 'carbon' very well. From my simple tests bases work best, such as oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide), Castrol degreaser (which is basically oven cleaner), and which baking soda works but typically takes longer. Solvents don't seem to work very well on carbon. Note that bases will pit aluminum so don't dump oven cleaner in the crankcase.

If you're ambitious round up a bunch of old valves or other engine parts and some pistons from a shop for cleaning experiments.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:

quote:

Originally posted by Dad2leia:
Warstud, just make sure that the GOOP that you are using DOESN'T contain pumice. I don't think that you want to re-polish all of the engine parts quite that well...
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Thanks for pointing that out although I was talking about the original GOOP. No orange stuff with pumice. Maybe it's worth a try in something like an old lawnmower or something.


There is no guarantee that any hand cleaner doesn't contain a higher level of abrasive crud than is good for an engine. Have fun cleaning the outside of you engine with it, but never put it inside an engine.

PS it does a nice job cleaning the outsides of barbeques. Unfortunately, like 1stTruck said, it doesn't work well on baked on crap so it just makes a mess on the inside of a barbeque.
 
If you are going to do it...it's a good idea to do it right????

"As an answer to all those that think breaking off a lot of crud does damage a friend an I did a test at local junk yard, with the help of the owner. We found a 1979 Toyota PU with a 20R 4-cylinder engine that looked like it was shot at and missed and $%^& at and hit. It smoked so bad it could be used by the Marines for beach assaults. We removed the valve cover and you could not see any detail, like a complete valve spring. the crud was both soft like tar and hard and shiny like glass. The dip stick shows a black spot on the end, but not up to the add mark.

Now here's what we did. We found several oil filters off other engines and cleaned them out with carb cleaner. Nothing but the best for our test. Then we put two quarts of 5w-30 Mobil 1 and two quarts of carb cleaner out of a 5 gal pail into the engine. We started up the engine and ran the snot out of it. It sputtered and smoked and with each passing minute, running at about 3 grand in neutral, it started running better. As the oil filter would get plugged up, we would change it and add a 50/50 mixture of Mobil 1 and carb cleaner. We reved it up and let it idle. Then we drove it around the canyon behind the junk yard, up and down the hills and never spared the horses. We beat this truck like a dog every Saturday morning for a month and each time it ran better and each time it plugged up a filter, and we unplugged it and put it back on. Then we swithched from Mobil1/carb cleaner to Mobil1/Marvel Mystrry Oil. Every one took a shot at driving it. After a couple of weeks, it got driven during the week, too. In six weeks of brutal driving we put about 1k miles on the truck. We had to replace the spark plugs twice, using NGK's both times, nothing but the best for our truck. We also cleaned the carb and pcv a couple of times and put in a new air filter and finally a new oil filter, again nothing but the best. Today the truck runs great, compression is 1=165 2=170 3=165 4=160, thats up about 10 psi per hole, with no thickners or other stuff. If breaking off crud would damage the engine, we would have seen something. We took the pan off twice, first time we scraped it out, second time it was pretty clean. Oil pressure, with a mechanical gauge is 65 psi at 3k in neutral with, finally all Mobil 1 5w-30 oil. A lot of people watched our ASTM level official test and even took turns driving the truck around. It now runs without smoking, knocking or clicking, starts right up and idles smoothly and about 800rpm, and revs like crazy without missing and it pulls the hill behind the junk yard in 4th gear lugging now (5-speed) which on the first day took a struggle in 2nd, buzzing it's brains out. Not very scientific but we had fun. The owner now used the truck for a parts truck, and finally sold it for money to someone down the street. Our testing was so much fun we are going to look for a new myth to bust."
 
Interesting story. The myth/story I heard was that the crud would plug up the oil pick up screen. However, I wonder if the issue is that the filter gets plugged up. Maybe the trick is to change the filter frequently when flushing your engine.
 
I used to use MMO, but have now changed to ARX. I works a little slower but does a better job of getting right down to the metal parts. It turns out that ARX is a product that does what it claims to do. Imagine that? Now, if we could only mix ARX and LC?
 
I think that a good set of used shocks is all thats necessary in preparation for the upcoming Baja endurance race. What color scheme is the new owner going with?

On a more serious note, in 1979 the oil passages were about the diameter of your little finger. Many modern motors, or motors built a couple decades after this '79 have oil passages about the diameter of a pipe cleaner.

Did you get any check engine light warnings during the process in the bone yard? Any oil analysis? Where are the digital pics?

In conclusion, I think your story speaks volumes of the durability of that Toy motor. Don't think I'll try your brew anytime soon on mine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MN Driver:

quote:

Originally posted by LarryL:
Now, if we could only mix ARX and LC?

We can't?? Why not? Have there been damaged engines or engine damage shown in UOA's from doing this?


It's been discussed before. You *could*, but they'd interfere with each other. You might as well take a couple of $20 bills and shove them into an envelope addressed to me. I guarantee I will make better use of it (beer!).
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I don't think that the mixing has been tested. I think it's more a matter of leaving ARX alone to do it's work as advertised during the clean and rinse cycles. As far as maintenance doses, they have not been tested together that I know of. They might well supplement each other becaus ARX cleans and LC supports the TBN and both support extended oci's. The problems is that both products are really good at what they do. I'll bet that there are people out there mixing them, I'd like to get some uoa trends to see what's happening.
 
Any time I've read input on mixing them from the experts, they say "No soup for you!!!". That may not be a direct quote, but it was pretty close.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:
This may sound stupid, well maybe not exactly considering what concoctions some members put in there crankcase. Anyway the other day while cleaning my greasy hands with the hand cleaner GOOP I wondered how well it would clean an engine.
Any thoughts?


Works AWESOME! Seriously I used to work at a race shop and was the guy who dissassembled all the engines, brought to the machine shop and got everything ready for Motor Builder to build it.

I of course hot tanked the blocks before taking them to get honed/bored/decked at the machine shop, but when they came back they're still "Dirty" even though they look clean. I'd take a pressure washer and spay out all the galleys and water passages, (I'd protect the bare cylinder walls by dousing with WD-40), then after the pressure washing I'd take GOOP with a soft parts cleaning brush and work it through the Cylinders, the GOOP lifts all the fine particles and stuff out of the X-hatching in the cylinder walls, Then after I scrubbed out all the Cylinders I'd blast the Goop out with the pressure washer and then Dry out all the cylinders REALLY FAST with paper towels (NO RUST!). Then blow out the galleys with compressed air. This cleaning method along with Total Seal ring sealing powder never had a problem seating rings.

In fact the only motor failures we had were from bearing failures. Mostly from overrevved downshifts or some undetermined cause.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
Doesn't GOOP have pumice in it?
Pumice could hurt a bearing!


My favorite for cleaning freshly cleaned blocks was Tide detergent in hot water and a good bristle brush with a spray and wipe-off of WD-40 before it flash rusted.
 
quote:

Originally posted by LarryL:
I've been using MMO on an 84 Honda Civic. It has that extra intake valve that sees more vacuum. The seals get hard and stop sealing. The dealer's fix it to replace them all. So every year or so I pour a quart of MMO in the oil about 1k before the next oil change to stop the mild smoking on start up and lift off. I'm good for another year or two. I've got 374k on this engine and have replaced seals once and the camshaft and followers once, head never off. So it's working. I was just wondering what others experienced on modern engines with FI and lots of computer controls.

When I was buying parts for my Honda, the dealer (service manager) told me not to come running back to him when I screwed up my car. The only solution, he said was a complete overhaul. That was at about 275k miles when I did the camshaft (one warn lobe). So I've taken his advice and will never go back.


milage yeah
why not do this
every oci add aa ood amount of mmo
say 8 ounces or 16 ounces or a quart

I use to run a full quart al the time with a syn

use the 8 ounces or 16 ounces as a maintenace dose

If you are getting good results keep it up

Make sure you have a very detergant oil

use an additive to help the oil be more soluble if you can and or keep the brew as mentioned

A little additive, a little mmo, and your detergant oil

they guys in the mechanic quire always seem to hate high milage cars

I even had some start refusing to service my truck in the low 400K and high 300K's just for milage
--- jerks
 
quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
Doesn't GOOP have pumice in it?
Pumice could hurt a bearing!


Or (tongue in cheek) could enable you to run a thicker (e.g., read better) oil, like 10w40. Open up those bearings so they can run some real oil. None of this starburst energy conserving crap!
grin.gif
 
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