Only every 2nd or 3rd post on thin vs thick oil. It’s quite literally the most cited reason to not go thicker.
Engine Break-in
- Thread starter Al
- Start date
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Everyone gets hung up on rings - but brakes and many other moving components benefit from a softer break in …
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
So, those 2nd or 3rd post people you speak of, also say not to go by the owner's manual for break in?
We buy new but keep them for 20 years. Have 3 with 150K+ and one with 110K and none burn any oil.
I have always done the following. I do some spirited 20-60MPH runs and let the engine compression brake the the extent that it will. I do about 10 of those, then about the same to seat the brakes but do some hard braking but not fully stopping. Drive it home and change the oil/filter, less than 50 miles on the factory fill. Change the oil and filter again at 500 then switch to my normal 5K OCI.
I have always done the following. I do some spirited 20-60MPH runs and let the engine compression brake the the extent that it will. I do about 10 of those, then about the same to seat the brakes but do some hard braking but not fully stopping. Drive it home and change the oil/filter, less than 50 miles on the factory fill. Change the oil and filter again at 500 then switch to my normal 5K OCI.
The AI says tells us how to break in a new Toyota engine...
To break in a new Toyota engine, focus on avoiding hard acceleration, high RPMs, heavy towing, and constant speeds for the first 1,000 miles, instead varying your engine speeds and driving conditions while allowing the engine to warm up properly before pushing it; always consult your owner's manual for specific break-in guidelines for your Toyota model. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Key points to remember when breaking in a new Toyota engine: [1, 2, 4]
[1] https://www.captoyota.com/service/information/new-toyota-break-in-period.htm
[2] https://www.redexadditives.com/blog/new-car-engine/
[3] https://www.florencetoyota.com/toyota-service-and-maintenance-importance-of-regular-service/
[4] https://www.toyota.com/owners/warra...ital/article/rav4/2021/om0r028u/ch04se010401/
[5]
[6] https://www.bmw.com/en/automotive-life/break-in-a-new-car.html
To break in a new Toyota engine, focus on avoiding hard acceleration, high RPMs, heavy towing, and constant speeds for the first 1,000 miles, instead varying your engine speeds and driving conditions while allowing the engine to warm up properly before pushing it; always consult your owner's manual for specific break-in guidelines for your Toyota model. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Key points to remember when breaking in a new Toyota engine: [1, 2, 4]
- Avoid hard acceleration: Don't floor the accelerator pedal, especially in the first few hundred miles. [1, 2, 4]
- Keep RPMs moderate: Stay below the redline and avoid prolonged high RPM driving. [1, 2, 6]
- Vary engine speeds: Change gears at different RPMs to allow for even wear on engine components. [1, 2, 5]
- Don't tow heavy loads: Avoid towing trailers or hauling significant weight during the break-in period. [2, 3, 4]
- Let the engine warm up: Before driving aggressively, let the engine reach operating temperature. [1, 2, 5]
- Check your owner's manual: Always refer to your specific Toyota model's owner's manual for the most accurate break-in instructions. [1, 3, 5]
[1] https://www.captoyota.com/service/information/new-toyota-break-in-period.htm
[2] https://www.redexadditives.com/blog/new-car-engine/
[3] https://www.florencetoyota.com/toyota-service-and-maintenance-importance-of-regular-service/
[4] https://www.toyota.com/owners/warra...ital/article/rav4/2021/om0r028u/ch04se010401/
[5]
[6] https://www.bmw.com/en/automotive-life/break-in-a-new-car.html
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Yep, same here …
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
Hypermiling type Pulse and glide driving in the early miles exerts varying pressures on the surfaces that are trying to mate. I've done that on my last three new vehicles.
Watched one of Lake Speed Jr's videos not to long ago. He was going to change his daughters oil on her new corolla at about 500 miles. He sent in a sample for analysis from that car and a sample of brand new oil he was adding for comparison purposes. As expected the sample from her car came back with all kinds of metals in it. He also indicated he was keeping track of a motor rebuild on his personal car (a porsche). He did three changes (and a analysis for each one) before it even had a thousand miles and each showed a significant amount of metals in each change. His recommendation was to do the first new car change at or around 500 miles. He also said waiting on that first change until whatever the manufacturer recommended was way too long and a recipe for increased future wear. I just did my new cx30's at 2000 miles and I think I'll do another at 5000. I kind of wish I had did it sooner...oh well. By the way, he was very pleasantly surprised by the Toyota oil 0w-8 and 0w16 formulations and add packs saying it was the best he had ever seen, even better than the 0w-16 one he had formulated for Joe Gibbs Racing. That's pretty high praise for a consumer oil.
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2023
- Messages
- 135
I watched that video as well, and when we traded in my wife's 2020 Mazda CX-5 for a 2024 model, that's exactly what I did.
One of the better explanations
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in...EUJIlO_IA0FnNVwDCqvYnNjFvxC6SB6ugCwjzF2bBV1x0
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in...EUJIlO_IA0FnNVwDCqvYnNjFvxC6SB6ugCwjzF2bBV1x0
JHZR2
Staff member
Depends upon how you define break in.
General process I learned early was to avoid going over 55 for the first 100, no wot or hard braking for the first 500, and always varying speed, with as much coasting as you could. This let everything wear in together, didn’t stress things too much, and let the engine get some thermal cycles before pushing it too hard. An early oil change was also good.
The 55mph rule came from some owners manual, not sure the rationale there, but the rest seems sound to me and we have always had great running engines.
General process I learned early was to avoid going over 55 for the first 100, no wot or hard braking for the first 500, and always varying speed, with as much coasting as you could. This let everything wear in together, didn’t stress things too much, and let the engine get some thermal cycles before pushing it too hard. An early oil change was also good.
The 55mph rule came from some owners manual, not sure the rationale there, but the rest seems sound to me and we have always had great running engines.
Patman
Staff member
I think that the “not going over 55” rule doesn’t really apply anymore ever since overdrive transmissions became a thing a few decades ago. In the pre overdrive era you would often end up having your engine at 3000 rpm at 60mph, especially if you were running shorter gear sets like 3.73s, 4.10s etc. But these days there are cars like my Vette which has an 8 speed automatic and 2.41 gears so I can go 100 mph in 8th gear and the engine is only at 2000 rpm.
When I was an undergraduate student in mechanical engineering (late '60s, early '70s) one of our profs told us that a hard break-in made for a better engine. Myth?
What about the thousands of new rental cars that never receive any type of special break in? I've owned several ex rental cars that never had any mechanical issues that I'm sure were never "broken in".
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
Maybe. On Ferrari forums people often ask about break-in (there are specifics in the owners manuals) yet all new Ferraris arrive with anything from 30 to 80 or more miles as they are shaken down at the factory around Maranello by their test drivers. According to those that have seen them out driving, they are not babied and get hammered pretty good...so they kinda laugh at Ferrari's break-in recommendations.
I've purchased two cars used, a 2001 BMW 540 M-Sport with around 15k miles and a 2007 Toyota Tundra with around 24k miles. Both are now over 372,000 miles today and don't burn oil or have any issues whatsoever. I seriously doubt either got any special attention by the previous owners for a specific "break-in" procedure.
Drive as you normally do so the adaptive module in the trans will learn from you. Run to redline after up to temps on all fluids and do that once a week. (or not, I do it for the smiles) Don't abuse a vehicle and treat it to regular maintenance.
Simple stuff to me, but I've only bought a new vehicle 5 times in my entire life (approaching 60) Almost all my rides have been near 100,000 miles when I got them. I don't remember any oil drinkers, some gas hogs but that is another story. Transmissions, well that is a crap shoot and I have had a few give up the ghost so to speak.
Bottom line, use your vehicle for what you bought it for. Family hauler, grocery getter, tow rig, or just plain fun. We will not leave this world alive so enjoy. Life is meant to be lived, cars are meant to be used, and like us they die a little with daily use.
Simple stuff to me, but I've only bought a new vehicle 5 times in my entire life (approaching 60) Almost all my rides have been near 100,000 miles when I got them. I don't remember any oil drinkers, some gas hogs but that is another story. Transmissions, well that is a crap shoot and I have had a few give up the ghost so to speak.
Bottom line, use your vehicle for what you bought it for. Family hauler, grocery getter, tow rig, or just plain fun. We will not leave this world alive so enjoy. Life is meant to be lived, cars are meant to be used, and like us they die a little with daily use.
