Eletrical fires

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Is there any ways to prevent electrical fires at home or even in the car? I'm a little short with this electrical stuff. I've heard horror stories where an improperly installed car audio system (or any car eletronics) can cause an eletrical fire and overloading those multiple socket surge protectors can also cause fires.
 
The best you can do is be conservative on the size of wire and current used. Some insulations may be better heat/fire wise.
 
Originally Posted By: toytundranator
Is there any ways to prevent electrical fires at home or even in the car?


The short story is YES: Just make sure everything is done properly!

Originally Posted By: toytundranator
I'm a little short with this electrical stuff.


Pun intended? If so, *well played*.

Originally Posted By: toytundranator
I've heard horror stories where an improperly installed car audio system (or any car eletronics) can cause an eletrical fire and overloading those multiple socket surge protectors can also cause fires.


Those horror stories, whether they involve auto installations, home, power strips or anything else almost always involve some human error (be that in the form of laziness or irresponsibility during installation, or misuse) and/ or faulty componentry (attn: moribundman --- I already know "componentry" is not a real word).

If you are unsure of anything involving electricity, the only responsible thing you can do is to have someone experienced handle things for you. Look over his or her shoulder, ask questions, Google it and gradually you will develop enough of an understanding so that it's distinguishable from magic.
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It's not the language that's crazy, it's the use or attempts of same that's really nuts. Sort of back to OP, get/use smoke alarms in home, get/use arc fault breakers, fire extinguishers, and maybe get a dalmation for the car, good for fire and theft.
 
The best way to make sure you're OK is to add up all the watts for all the things you use, make sure not to overload your cords or spike protectors. Many spike protectors have a built-in circuit breaker to prevent overloading. Another good practice is to make sure your wall receptacles aren't loose-arcing often occurs there as well. A little common sense goes a long way.
 
Know the amp draw of stuff. Two toasters in one outlet running concurrently overload it... but twenty "wall wart" chargers in extention cords in power strips isn't an issue.

The electrical code has updated over the years; if you have an old house it met the code when it was built but there could be improvements in safety since then. (Alternatively the craftsmanship back then was better-- which counts for a lot) Stuff that's improved recently include ground fault outlets even over the 1st generation of the things.

I secretly wonder if fire marshalls declare a fire to be "electrical" when it's truly unknown. A coworker was a fireman years ago and took a class... where they show you how to ID a wire that shorted together. A clever arsonist would know how to disguise the scene... I just have a hunch.
 
I had wires break, but the insulation remained intact, in the door hinge area of my cutlass ciera.

Insulation started to fall off the underhood wiring of my ford contour, a common issue with that car.
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Fuses are good. Even better when they're properly sized and installed close to the source of power. Some people think that they're optional. Those are the people who have fires.

Grounds are good, too. Again, some people think that they're optional, because the appliance works without it. These are the people with the extension cords that have the 3rd prong busted off.

Quote:
Insulation started to fall off the underhood wiring of my ford contour, a common issue with that car.


Those harnesses were made by Yazaki with the wrong type of insulation for underhood use.

What's funny is how difficult it is to get the right type of wire for underhood use. You won't get it at Autozone or Pep Boys. NAPA might have it, at least it's in their catalog.

There was a similar problem with Romex (NM) cable made prior to 1983. It only had 60C rated conductors and the heat from light fixtures deteriorated the insulation. Newer Romex (NM-B) has 90C rated conductors.
 
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