Electrical wiring question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
33,693
Location
Near the beach in Delaware
I have a 5 HP 230v air compressor. When I bought it new around 1987 it had no wiring. So I connected the motor to the pressure switch with some #10 solid house wiring I had laying around. I always knew the proper way was not with solid wire. So is it best wired with rubber service cord or flex conduit and stranded wire in the conduit?
 
How do you know this is the case?

What do the terminals on the conpressor look like?

Is it your intent to have a removable cord to a plug? Ae you using a romex or other solid wire jumper in lieu of a flexible conductor?

Are the conductors sized appropriately for the ampacity and voltage drop required by code?

I like SOOW cable sometimes (note not the "junior" SJOOW type that is only good to 300v), but I'd suspect that at this power level, pre-made electric range and dryer power cables with the right termination could be easily bought.

If youre not looking to use a plug, then Im not seeing why a properly affixed and supported solid conductor would be an issue, assuming the terminations are torqued to the load properly with enough interfacing surface area.
 
The wiring is #10.

I think there is too much vibration for solid wire.

From the air pressure switch is rubber service cord and a plug.

My question was about from the motor to air pressure switch. It's maybe 20" of wire.

The connector at the motor is made for a ring terminal or spade terminal. Not a lot of room either.

Near the compressor is a 100 amp sub panel with 20 amp @ 110v, 20 amp @ 220v, 30 amp @ 220v, and 50 amp @ 220v.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
The wiring is #10.

I think there is too much vibration for solid wire.

From the air pressure switch is rubber service cord and a plug.

My question was about from the motor to air pressure switch. It's maybe 20" of wire.

The connector at the motor is made for a ring terminal or spade terminal. Not a lot of room either.

Near the compressor is a 100 amp sub panel with 20 amp @ 110v, 20 amp @ 220v, 30 amp @ 220v, and 50 amp @ 220v.


So if im reading this right, youre all set for the main wiring back to the panel. Im surprised that the other smaller jumper wasnt factory wired.

For that jumper Id definitely want 90 or 105C rated wire, gauge actually matters less because theres no practical length to drive a voltage drop. Assuming a 90% efficient motor, the load is around 17A, so you can probably get away with 12ga for that jumper, though 10 is better.

Id just go to HD and buy a few feet of SOOW 10ga cable for this. Its 600V rated, has 90C insulation, and is oil resistsnt which i like around oiled compressors. Make sure you have a good crimper, and terminate appropriately.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Donald
The wiring is #10.

I think there is too much vibration for solid wire.

From the air pressure switch is rubber service cord and a plug.

My question was about from the motor to air pressure switch. It's maybe 20" of wire.

The connector at the motor is made for a ring terminal or spade terminal. Not a lot of room either.

Near the compressor is a 100 amp sub panel with 20 amp @ 110v, 20 amp @ 220v, 30 amp @ 220v, and 50 amp @ 220v.


So if im reading this right, youre all set for the main wiring back to the panel. Im surprised that the other smaller jumper wasnt factory wired.

For that jumper Id definitely want 90 or 105C rated wire, gauge actually matters less because theres no practical length to drive a voltage drop. Assuming a 90% efficient motor, the load is around 17A, so you can probably get away with 12ga for that jumper, though 10 is better.

Id just go to HD and buy a few feet of SOOW 10ga cable for this. Its 600V rated, has 90C insulation, and is oil resistsnt which i like around oiled compressors. Make sure you have a good crimper, and terminate appropriately.


No. Insulation tempature is of no concern here. Wire gauge matters. Your amps for the motor are incorrect. There is no need for flexible cord.

Posting a picture of the nameplate of the unit would help determine what is needed. Without that all I can do is guess. I would say 10 gauge wire is correct assuming it is a somewhat normal motor but compressors have odd motors some times. Stranded wire in a flexible conduit would be the way I would hook it up for a customer. Much cheaper than flexible cord. That being said, if it had made it this long on solid wire there is no need to mess with it.
 
Even though the wiring in the motor is likely crimped, I'd use 10 gauge stranded with ring terminals and crimp and solder them. Locally made by hand crimps can work loose and they will heat up if the develop crevice corrosion over time. Soldering them prevents most of that. It does not take much time and you know they are doing their job
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Even though the wiring in the motor is likely crimped, I'd use 10 gauge stranded with ring terminals and crimp and solder them. Locally made by hand crimps can work loose and they will heat up if the develop crevice corrosion over time. Soldering them prevents most of that. It does not take much time and you know they are doing their job
smile.gif



Soldering copper wire in a high vibration environment is a guaranteed way to induce fatigue fractures. If you use a crimp connector, crimp it properly and you won't have an issue. Crimp it and solder it and it'll break where the solder stops at the copper. Crimps are crimps, and solder is solder. They are two different methods of joining and shouldn't be mixed, particularly anywhere the cable is subject to *any* movement unless you plan to properly strain-relieve it such that the soldered section can *never* move (pretty hard given the expansion coefficient of copper).
 
I don't like crimp connectors on solid wire. Really no need if the screw head is big enough. No need for the 600v wire either if you don't want to spend the extra money. And rubber cord should not be put in a conduit. Better to put a box on the end and then attach the cord to the wire in the conduit.
 
I can get Ancor ring terminals (I think) that I can double crimp. That would make a pretty secure connection.

And yes, most replies to this thread did not read the question carefully.
 
Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Donald
The wiring is #10.

I think there is too much vibration for solid wire.

From the air pressure switch is rubber service cord and a plug.

My question was about from the motor to air pressure switch. It's maybe 20" of wire.

The connector at the motor is made for a ring terminal or spade terminal. Not a lot of room either.

Near the compressor is a 100 amp sub panel with 20 amp @ 110v, 20 amp @ 220v, 30 amp @ 220v, and 50 amp @ 220v.


So if im reading this right, youre all set for the main wiring back to the panel. Im surprised that the other smaller jumper wasnt factory wired.

For that jumper Id definitely want 90 or 105C rated wire, gauge actually matters less because theres no practical length to drive a voltage drop. Assuming a 90% efficient motor, the load is around 17A, so you can probably get away with 12ga for that jumper, though 10 is better.

Id just go to HD and buy a few feet of SOOW 10ga cable for this. Its 600V rated, has 90C insulation, and is oil resistsnt which i like around oiled compressors. Make sure you have a good crimper, and terminate appropriately.


No. Insulation tempature is of no concern here. Wire gauge matters. Your amps for the motor are incorrect. There is no need for flexible cord.

Posting a picture of the nameplate of the unit would help determine what is needed. Without that all I can do is guess. I would say 10 gauge wire is correct assuming it is a somewhat normal motor but compressors have odd motors some times. Stranded wire in a flexible conduit would be the way I would hook it up for a customer. Much cheaper than flexible cord. That being said, if it had made it this long on solid wire there is no need to mess with it.


OK, let's review.

Quote:

No. Insulation tempature is of no concern here.


Really? So NEC Article 430 does not apply? That would say to select ampacity and a conductor rated based upon 75C values. So 90C is a meaningful and useful derating.

Quote:

Wire gauge matters.


Of course. But one selects wire size based upon ampacity for a given temperature rating. Voltage drop is a function of conductor length too, so that does come into play.

Quote:

Your amps for the motor are incorrect.


OK, how so? OP said 5hp 230V motor.

Convert 5 hp to kw: 3.73kW.

Assume 90% efficiency... Then its roughly 4.14kW.

4140W / 230V = 18A

I said "around 17A", so perhaps I was one off, but it may also be lower based upon motor efficiency. Of course, if 0.8PF is assumed, the wire may be a little small, if 12ga... But I never said that 10ga was wrong.

Tables show 20A to be fine for 12ga.

http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts

Even for SOOW, which was my initial thought.

http://www.cmewire.com/catalog/sec19-fcx/fcx-cu-01-amp.pdf

Quote:
There is no need for flexible cord.


Generally I agree. That said, SOOW, which is oil resistant flexible conductor, readily bought by the foot at any box store, is easy to work with and manipulate. If oil is spilled on it when servicing the compressor, no problems. Note I asked:
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
How do you know this is the case?

What do the terminals on the compressor look like?


Quote:
I would say 10 gauge wire is correct assuming it is a somewhat normal motor but compressors have odd motors some times.


Agreed. That said, Ive seen short runs in compressors factory wired with smaller gauge.

Quote:
Stranded wire in a flexible conduit would be the way I would hook it up for a customer. Much cheaper than flexible cord.


Agree. That's why I asked if the OP wanted a plug and a flexible connection that can be physically disconnected.

Quote:
That being said, if it had made it this long on solid wire there is no need to mess with it.


Agree, assuming the terminals are suitable.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom