Hey guys, sorry I've been away for so long, just been busy! Got a call for my dad this morning, and like usual, his 1997 Grand Voyager work van is acting up. It seems he was driving up the interstate for work this morning when all of his electrical components (radio, lights, fan, wipers, etc) stopped working. He checked most of the fuses and they were fine. He's currently stuck at Advance about 30 minutes from home waiting for the rain to stop so he can work on it. Any idea what this could be? Im planning on heading up to help him as soon as I get off work. Thanks!
Electrical "failure" in Grand Voyager?
- Thread starter renegade_987
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Losing that much is likely a main supply open nearer to the battery side.
I'd start at the fuse/circuit breaker box for the failed circuits, and work towards the battery. Could be as simple as an open secondary/aux hot lead coming off the battery, or perhaps a nearby fuseable link.
Usually if the vehicle will start, there's enough of a common bond to the chassis that the ground side can be ruled out.
I'd start at the fuse/circuit breaker box for the failed circuits, and work towards the battery. Could be as simple as an open secondary/aux hot lead coming off the battery, or perhaps a nearby fuseable link.
Usually if the vehicle will start, there's enough of a common bond to the chassis that the ground side can be ruled out.
Try smacking the dashboard. Those mopar vans had a stupid flaw with the solder joints on the back of the gauge cluster that made it do weird things.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Try smacking the dashboard. Those mopar vans had a stupid flaw with the solder joints on the back of the gauge cluster that made it do weird things.
That gen van had lots of problems with solder connections coming apart, due to bad (early) lead-free solder. Another problem was the clockspring dying (which is what I'd suspect, if the van just died.) Luckily the replacement clocksprings have a lifetime warranty ( not sure about the factory unit, might be something to look into though...)
Try smacking the dashboard. Those mopar vans had a stupid flaw with the solder joints on the back of the gauge cluster that made it do weird things.
That gen van had lots of problems with solder connections coming apart, due to bad (early) lead-free solder. Another problem was the clockspring dying (which is what I'd suspect, if the van just died.) Luckily the replacement clocksprings have a lifetime warranty ( not sure about the factory unit, might be something to look into though...)
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It could be that, too. But I'd not leap to it too fast, as it's not an inexpensive option. On one this old, I'd check the wiring first.
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthr...does-it-control
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthr...does-it-control
big power like that -- could be a relay in the underhood fuse compartment. though you lost multiple---- both accessory (radio) constant (lights) and fan (ign-on). and that happening all at once would mean 3.... so negate that -- not a relay. this is something surrounding the bcm--- be it a power feed or a ground. lights and wipers switches use multi-voltage wires (or at least the next gen does) which means a single bad ground can play heck on the controls. BUT the blower motor is wired old-school. I might start there since it avoids whacky electronics--- baclk track from there and you may find it. good luck. the electronics in our 02 are complex and I do not look forward to having to trace them. I've already given up on one of the power doors...
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^ but, if the BCM powers the radio for 10 minutes or until a door is opened, it could be that or the feed to it.
Both aren't great! Mopar electronics of that age use low lead solder and are full of rubbery goo potting compound so you can't go in and touch up the connections.
Both aren't great! Mopar electronics of that age use low lead solder and are full of rubbery goo potting compound so you can't go in and touch up the connections.
The voltmeter is your friend here.
Just pick one of the down circuits, and check from the non-working component working back towards the power source (battery), at each connector along the way. When you read a hot 12v, you've found the culprit. If it ends at the BCM (or a good relay controlled by it), that's about a $150 -$300 fix. Otherwise, my money is on a shared open closer to supply.
A few years back we had a harness internally wear to the point that the starter solenoid wire was shorting to an accessory supply lead - in the harness. The car wouldn't stop starting, as the starter circuit was constantly hot. That one was hard. But we isolated it, by breaking down the circuit, harness by harness, with continuity checks along each block. Three hours of time, $ 2 of parts.
This one is easy.
Just pick one of the down circuits, and check from the non-working component working back towards the power source (battery), at each connector along the way. When you read a hot 12v, you've found the culprit. If it ends at the BCM (or a good relay controlled by it), that's about a $150 -$300 fix. Otherwise, my money is on a shared open closer to supply.
A few years back we had a harness internally wear to the point that the starter solenoid wire was shorting to an accessory supply lead - in the harness. The car wouldn't stop starting, as the starter circuit was constantly hot. That one was hard. But we isolated it, by breaking down the circuit, harness by harness, with continuity checks along each block. Three hours of time, $ 2 of parts.
This one is easy.
Nick1994
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My guess is either the computer or alternator died.
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