Electrical Connections

If the fans turn freely with no binding I would think the starting capacitors are bad. They don't often deform or leak when they go bad.

My favorite parts house for electronic parts is: https://www.mouser.com/

Their website is a little convoluted to navigate but they will happily pull one resistor or capacitor and ship it to you.

They carry a plethora of hard, or impossible, to find electronic and electronic/mechanical parts.

I've used them for the past 30+ years to restore old radios.
 
ecotourist said:
There are 5 push buttons and a LED. One button is for lights, one is for a timer and 3 are for the fan.

There is an on/off button which is supposed to start the fan at the middle (#2) speed. There is a (+) button. And there is a (-) button. With these 3 buttons you can access all 3 speeds.

As noted above everything is currently working correctly except when the fan should be running on #2. When you push the "on" button it hardly ever starts (it should start on #2), though it will run correctly on #1 or #3. The fan stops when you try to go from #3 to #2, or from #1 to #2. The LED always displays the instruction correctly - it's just that the fan (usually) doesn't come on when the LED is displaying #2.

I believe the push button controls are working correctly. The instruction for the fan are always displayed correctly by the LED, but when the instruction is speed #2, the instruction is either not getting through to the fan motors or it's not being implemented.

The 2 motor and fan assemblies do run on all three speeds (though not often at the middle #2 speed).
Click to expand...
You told us how the interface works, but what controls the motor speed? In simple terms - is it resistance or electronically controlled?

I am obviously not at all familiar with your unit. But now it really sounds like something in the controls to me.
 
Pablo said:
You told us how the interface works, but what controls the motor speed? In simple terms - is it resistance or electronically controlled?

I am obviously not at all familiar with your unit. But now it really sounds like something in the controls to me.
Click to expand...
How do you tell whether a motor speed is resistance or electronically controlled?
 
Pablo said:
Can you take a picture or post a link of the switches, control panel, wiring?

What is the exact make and model?
Click to expand...
Jenn-Air Model JXT5830ADS Type S26 Serial# 11361515LL

Link to the "no longer available" switch assembly

Switch 49001295 | Jenn-Air Replacement Parts

Buy Switch, part #49001295 and ship it today!
www.jennairreplacementparts.com

Link to Jenn-Air range hood diagram

Jenn Air Range Vent Hood JXT5830ADS Parts, Diagrams, Videos & Repair Help - Repair Clinic

Need to fix your Jenn Air Range Vent Hood JXT5830ADS? Use our JXT5830ADS Parts, diagrams, manuals, and videos to make your repair easy.
www.repairclinic.com www.repairclinic.com
 

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  • Switches.jpeg
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  • Circuit Board.jpeg
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  • Capacitor.jpeg
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  • Capacitor Box.jpeg
    Capacitor Box.jpeg
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ecotourist said:
Jenn-Air Model JXT5830ADS Type S26 Serial# 11361515LL

Link to the "no longer available" switch assembly

Switch 49001295 | Jenn-Air Replacement Parts

Buy Switch, part #49001295 and ship it today!
www.jennairreplacementparts.com

Link to Jenn-Air range hood diagram

Jenn Air Range Vent Hood JXT5830ADS Parts, Diagrams, Videos & Repair Help - Repair Clinic

Need to fix your Jenn Air Range Vent Hood JXT5830ADS? Use our JXT5830ADS Parts, diagrams, manuals, and videos to make your repair easy.
www.repairclinic.com www.repairclinic.com
Click to expand...
Looks like two standard cap start e-controlled AC motors.

Did you say you have a clamp on meter? Measure the current draw of each at speed and when acting up. They will draw more when grease gumbo is slowing them. Basically looking for a change. You should have higher current when starting, then smooth even current.

Have you tried contact cleaner on the switches?

Have you had any power outages/surges lately?
 
Pablo said:
Did you say you have a clamp on meter? Measure the current draw of each at speed and when acting up. They will draw more when grease gumbo is slowing them. Basically looking for a change. You should have higher current when starting, then smooth even current.

Have you tried contact cleaner on the switches?

Have you had any power outages/surges lately?
Click to expand...
Don't have a clamp on meter.

I have "sprayed and worked" the switches with contact cleaner.

We have lots of power outages here. Maybe one a month during the winter.

Here's the story:
About a month ago the #2 speed stopped working. But #1 speed still worked and my wife discovered there was a #3 speed and it also worked. Over the course of the month the #1 and #3 speeds also stopped working.

Since I took the unit down and cleaned all the contacts it seems to be working better than it was. I've cleaned every connection I could get at. I couldn't get a few connections apart so I sprayed contact cleaner into them and worked the contact. And I "sprayed and worked" the switches using contact cleaner.

It's normally a hard wired unit but I've hooked it up with an electrical cord for the repair. When it's cold and freshly plugged in everything works. As it warms up #2 speed usually stops working but #1 and #3 generally continue to work.

Things I can still do:
  • Check the capacitors. They're really big units and I'm a bit afraid of them.
  • Remove the motor/fan units and degunk the motors as best I can. The fans themselves actually look fairly clean. Removing them won't be an easy job as I have to remove a strip that runs over top of them that's held on with pop rivets.
  • My friend suggested spraying various components with spray cleaner (it evaporates quickly which really cools things off) when #2 speed stops working to see If I can identify a temperature sensitive component.
 
ecotourist said:
Don't have a clamp on meter.

I have "sprayed and worked" the switches with contact cleaner.

We have lots of power outages here. Maybe one a month during the winter.

Here's the story:
About a month ago the #2 speed stopped working. But #1 speed still worked and my wife discovered there was a #3 speed and it also worked. Over the course of the month the #1 and #3 speeds also stopped working.

Since I took the unit down and cleaned all the contacts it seems to be working better than it was. I've cleaned every connection I could get at. I couldn't get a few connections apart so I sprayed contact cleaner into them and worked the contact. And I "sprayed and worked" the switches using contact cleaner.

It's normally a hard wired unit but I've hooked it up with an electrical cord for the repair. When it's cold and freshly plugged in everything works. As it warms up #2 speed usually stops working but #1 and #3 generally continue to work.

Things I can still do:
  • Check the capacitors. They're really big units and I'm a bit afraid of them.
  • Remove the motor/fan units and degunk the motors as best I can. The fans themselves actually look fairly clean. Removing them won't be an easy job as I have to remove a strip that runs over top of them that's held on with pop rivets.
  • My friend suggested spraying various components with spray cleaner (it evaporates quickly which really cools things off) when #2 speed stops working to see If I can identify a temperature sensitive component.
Click to expand...
I would repeat the switch cleaning. It's cheap and easy.

It's possible one of the chips was stressed during a surge. Unlikely, but possible.

#2 speed didn't work at all........then cleaning helped. It could help more with time. When it warms, it gets worse. High resistance contact somewhere!

I don't think it's a cap, but short them with an insulated jumper. Don't be afraid, just healthy respect. People short them with screwdrivers. 12uF motor start cap shouldn't hold a huge amount of energy, but still. Then check those connections.

Cleaning is a good idea, since so many parts are NLA. Did you check fleabay?
 
Thanks for the pictures!

His problem seems to be the motors intermittent start. After they start the speed control switches work, correct?

This points to the starting capacitors. What you need are two 330 VAC x 12.5 uF (micro farad) capacitors.

The unit doesn't seem too gunked up to cause a problem.

The motor speed control is electric. If it's determined the capacitors are OK, I would replace the whole control board (shouldn't be too expensive if available). Do a net search for "Make-Model-Model-Number Parts". You can do the same if you need the switch board.

THE FANS MUST TURN SMOOTHLY WITH NO BINDING!!!

Cheap and dirty electrolytic capacitor test: Using a VOM (Voltage Ohm Meter) set on "ohms", connect the one meter probe to one capacitor lug. Connect the other probe to the other Lug. Wait for the ohm meter to count down to zero. Now switch the probes. The meter should start out high and slowly count down to zero. Switch the probes again and you should get the same results. This shows a good capacitor. A bad capacitor will show an open (no reading on the ohm meter).
 
ka9mnx said:
Thanks for the pictures!

His problem seems to be the motors intermittent start. After they start the speed control switches work, correct?

This points to the starting capacitors. What you need are two 330 VAC x 12.5 uF (micro farad) capacitors.

The unit doesn't seem too gunked up to cause a problem.

The motor speed control is electric. If it's determined the capacitors are OK, I would replace the whole control board (shouldn't be too expensive if available). Do a net search for "Make-Model-Model Number Parts". You can do the same if you need the switch board.

Cheap and dirty electrolytic capacitor test: Using a VOM (Voltage Ohm Meter) set on "ohms", connect the one meter probe to one capacitor lug. Connect the other probe to the other Lug. Wait for the ohm meter to count down to zero. Now switch the probes. The meter should start out high and slowly count down to zero. Switch the probes again and you should get the same results. This shows a good capacitor. A bad capacitor will show an open (no reading on the ohm meter).
Click to expand...
Might want to actually read the thread before posting help.. all of that was covered several times.
Speed 2 actually stops after it warms up
control switch is NLA.(mentioned 2 or 3 times)
 
ka9mnx said:
His problem seems to be the motors intermittent start. After they start the speed control switches work, correct?

This points to the starting capacitors. What you need are two 330 VAC x 12.5 uF (micro farad) capacitors.

The motor speed control is electric. If it's determined the capacitors are OK, I would replace the whole control board (shouldn't be too expensive if available). Do a net search for "Make-Model-Model-Number Parts". You can do the same if you need the switch board.

Cheap and dirty electrolytic capacitor test: Using a VOM (Voltage Ohm Meter) set on "ohms", connect the one meter probe to one capacitor lug. Connect the other probe to the other Lug. Wait for the ohm meter to count down to zero. Now switch the probes. The meter should start out high and slowly count down to zero. Switch the probes again and you should get the same results. This shows a good capacitor. A bad capacitor will show an open (no reading on the ohm meter).
Click to expand...
Once a motor starts it runs fine for as long as you want.

I'm going to check the capacitors tomorrow. If they're fine I'll take the metal bar off (hate to do that) and take the motors out and clean them as well as I can.
 
Rand said:
Might want to actually read the thread before posting help.. all of that was covered several times.
Speed 2 actually stops after it warms up
control switch is NLA.(mentioned 2 or 3 times)
Click to expand...
To clarify - the switch no longer works once it warms up. Once a motor is running it keeps running.

The switch assembly shown on the link below is NLA.

Switch 49001295 | Jenn-Air Replacement Parts

Buy Switch, part #49001295 and ship it today!
www.jennairreplacementparts.com
 
Pablo said:
Robbery: https://www.guaranteedparts.com/product/RLP_RPL-49001296.html

Do they actually have it?
Click to expand...
Wow. That is expensive.

I'll try everything else first. But this range hood is an expensive unit (comparable Jenn Air units would cost +/- $2,000 today) and if that would fix it, it wouldn't be horrible. What would be horrible is paying that price and then it not fixing the unit.

As I said earlier we have custom cupboards that have had special fittings installed for just this range hood fan unit. I could take that apart and hope the cabinets still look okay underneath and then put something more "normal" in, but that's for way down the road.
 
Update: It's been plugged in for about 6 hours and everything is still working fine.

When you shut the motor off the fan spins nicely for 10 or 15 seconds which suggests that the fan/motor units aren't very gunked up.

The blue cube in the circuit board photo gets very hot when the unit is plugged in. And that's with the cover off. It would be hotter with the cover on. There is some printing on one side but I can't read it because the view is blocked by the connections right beside it.
 
QUOTE:

My friend suggested spraying various components with spray cleaner (it evaporates quickly which really cools things off) when #2 speed stops working to see If I can identify a temperature sensitive component.

From your post #27. Your friend is right.
ecotourist said:
Update: It's been plugged in for about 6 hours and everything is still working fine.

When you shut the motor off the fan spins nicely for 10 or 15 seconds which suggests that the fan/motor units aren't very gunked up.

The blue cube in the circuit board photo gets very hot when the unit is plugged in. And that's with the cover off. It would be hotter with the cover on. There is some printing on one side but I can't read it because the view is blocked by the connections right beside it.
Click to expand...
Blue cube is a relay.

2 essential tools for every elect techs tool box:

deoxit d5 spray contact cleaner



Or similar, there are dozens of alternatives.
 
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