electric hot water tank settings

[hrv]

By code, the maximum hot water temperature is 130 in my state. But for Legionnaire's disease, they do suggest turning the heat up to 140
once in a while. I don't think it's that big a concern though, I pretty much never touch the water heaters, just set them for 130 and leave it.


If you get a Milwaukee 2767 with 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse, it pretty much has no issues removing any anode rod.

When I replace mine I have to get the sectional rod type so I can fit it in.....ceiling is not high enough to clear a full solid rod...

 

[Wolf359]

When I replace mine I have to get the sectional rod type so I can fit it in.....ceiling is not high enough to clear a full solid rod...

Then you cut the anode rod with a sawsall. And if the ceiling isn't high enough, you cut the hot and cold pipes and let some water out and just tip the water heater so you can get the rod in. I used to use the Rheem SP11526C, it was cheap, 44 inches long and .9 inches diameter, the cheapest/longish/thickest out there in terms of bang for the buck, I think I paid $13.45 for them the last time I got them, now the same place is up to $28.99 for the same rod. Inflation/supply chain issues, but Home Depot has it for $22.44. The segmented ones are shorter, have less material and cost a lot more and won't last as long. I just use shark bite fittings on the hot and cold inlets and of course you can reuse them when you change the rod again years later. I have 10+ water heaters so it's cheaper to just buy 9 anode rods to get enough to get free shipping and cut/tip the water heaters.

Rheem PROTECH 0.900 in. Dia Magnesium Anode Rod SP11526C - The Home Depot

Rheem PROTECH anode rods are an important line of defense in preventing corrosion and leaks in your water heater. These devices work because the metal in the rod is sacrificed so the tank does not corrode.

www.homedepot.com

 

[hrv]

Then you cut the anode rod with a sawsall. And if the ceiling isn't high enough, you cut the hot and cold pipes and let some water out and just tip the water heater so you can get the rod in. I used to use the Rheem SP11526C, it was cheap, 44 inches long and .9 inches diameter, the cheapest/longish/thickest out there in terms of bang for the buck, I think I paid $13.45 for them the last time I got them, now the same place is up to $28.99 for the same rod. Inflation/supply chain issues, but Home Depot has it for $22.44. The segmented ones are shorter, have less material and cost a lot more and won't last as long. I just use shark bite fittings on the hot and cold inlets and of course you can reuse them when you change the rod again years later. I have 10+ water heaters so it's cheaper to just buy 9 anode rods to get enough to get free shipping and cut/tip the water heaters.

Rheem PROTECH 0.900 in. Dia Magnesium Anode Rod SP11526C - The Home Depot

Rheem PROTECH anode rods are an important line of defense in preventing corrosion and leaks in your water heater. These devices work because the metal in the rod is sacrificed so the tank does not corrode.

www.homedepot.com

No need they sell them in attached sections that work just fine....I have a Rheem and I like it because it has another hole in the top to but another rod in....so you end up with two in the tank.

 

[Wolf359]

No need they sell them in attached sections that work just fine....I have a Rheem and I like it because it has another hole in the top to but another rod in....so you end up with two in the tank.

Oh it'll still work, it just won't last as long and it will cost more. But I guess it might be easier. Just takes a few extra minutes to undo the hot and cold and it lasts longer so you can wait longer. I replaced one after 8 years and the old .9 inch rod was still fine, hadn't completely disintegrated. The segmented rod is thinner and costs $50+. Shark bite fittings are only $6-$9 each.