The water doesnt seem hot enough after doing a bit of research should the top element be hotter than the bottom ? The tank is about a year old I'm going to drain it this weekend . Default is 120 I was think going to 130 on top and 125 bottom any sugestions?
electric hot water tank settings
- Thread starter 1blkc5
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Why are ya draining the heater? One can replace the element without draining. Check for open or shorted element with ohm meter. Open lower means 1/2 tank of hot water, open upper, no hot water.
They do not operate together at same time. The hotter the water the longer the tank will last before leaking. The lower element gets most of the workout. I don't run mine under 135f. The labeling of the thermostats is just a guide...usually not to close temp to labeling.
I don't think ya mean drain...ya need to blow it down to help with lime and such...usually is a waste of time and the lime plugs up the drain valve anyway...
They do not operate together at same time. The hotter the water the longer the tank will last before leaking. The lower element gets most of the workout. I don't run mine under 135f. The labeling of the thermostats is just a guide...usually not to close temp to labeling.
I don't think ya mean drain...ya need to blow it down to help with lime and such...usually is a waste of time and the lime plugs up the drain valve anyway...
Top thermostat setting should be the same or lower than the bottom. The bottom element heats most of the water and it only starts after the top thermostat is satisfied. The top thermostat and element is only to restore a little hot water quickly after someone has used it all.
Once in a while, blow some water out of the bottom of the tank by opening the drain valve. Do not close the supply valves while doing this.
Once in a while, blow some water out of the bottom of the tank by opening the drain valve. Do not close the supply valves while doing this.
Electric water heater the way they are wired top element comes on satisfied then bottom element comes on. Top heats top 1/3 bottom 2/3 set them the same
...well...the dip tube brings cold to the bottom which turns on the lower thermos. Keep using the hot water and the top of the tank gets cold and turns off lower and turns on upper.. when upper is satisfied then turns on lower to finish the job.
Not hot enough where? All faucets, or just the showers? Most newer shower valves can be set lower to prevent scalding.
I believe flushing the water annually is a good thing to do to remove sediment, maybe every 2 years is ok. When I have flushed mine I do see some rust and sediments.
How long has it been since you last did it??? If it has been many years or never you might want to leave it alone...
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I flush mine and replace the anode rod every three years or so.
Make sure ya got a hose cap for the drain valve just in case and don't do it on a weekend. If ya end up draining the tank put on a full port 3/4 ball valve with hose adapter for the drain if ya can...
I dont think you need anything other then to turn up the thermostat. Even though we have Gas HW I never leave it at default as another posted in here, 135 Min, Im sure mine is even hotter, now that I think of it Ill check, I warn guests to be careful *LOL* and they agree.
Anyway, you have a 1 year old heater, turn the thermostat higher until its at you liking. 120's is COLD to me. Id go up to 140 to start.
Anyway, you have a 1 year old heater, turn the thermostat higher until its at you liking. 120's is COLD to me. Id go up to 140 to start.
Thats smart...Sometimes those rods can be a bear to take out.....really tight...
If one is using untreated well water 120f will grow bacteria in the tank. 135 or 140 like alarmguy said..
120 is unsafe. Bacteria thrives at such low temperatures. Scalding issues aside, 140 is the lower limit for safe, bacteria free conditions in the water heater. Furthermore, a water temperature of 120 may, in some locations, be too low for an adequate mix, requiring nearly full flow of hot water and just a small mix of cold to temper the output to a shower comfortable 105 or so. Leading to low-flow conditions and a rapid emptying of the water heater.
Remember, the water heater set temperature, output temperature and the temp at the valve are different, due to various losses. A typical shower is 105, but an atomizing nozzle may require a full 120 degrees due to the cooling effect of such a nozzle.
By code, the maximum hot water temperature is 130 in my state. But for Legionnaire's disease, they do suggest turning the heat up to 140
once in a while. I don't think it's that big a concern though, I pretty much never touch the water heaters, just set them for 130 and leave it.
once in a while. I don't think it's that big a concern though, I pretty much never touch the water heaters, just set them for 130 and leave it.
If you get a Milwaukee 2767 with 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse, it pretty much has no issues removing any anode rod.
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