Electric dryer won’t start. Any suggestions?

[y_p_w]

You are in a conundrum about the belt. If it looks good, I would leave it alone since my experience is that new replacement belts are made with cheaper, less durable material. However, with Murphy's Law, the old belt will probably break in a week!

It's over 20 years old and has a lot of tiny little cracks. But I don't recall it ever squealing.

Looks a lot like an automotive serpentine belt, other than it only contacts pulleys and the drum on the ribbed side. If I had to do it again, I'm pretty confident that I could do it quickly and with the right tools. Because I'm going to need a 1/4" ratchet because there's no way I'm going to remove that thermal fuse without one.

But in taking this thing apart, I realize how simple traditional appliances are. Maybe some of the electrical parts do specific things, but it's not difficult to figure out. The ones with all the electronic controls are going to be a lot harder to fix. I'm guessing when a control unit fails, the only repair is to replace the entire unit.

 

[SC Maintenance]

But at least now he's got practice talking it apart and it will go faster the second time

Yes, exactly. My first attempt was probably 45 minutes. My third time was like 4 minutes.

 

[Nukeman7]

It's over 20 years old and has a lot of tiny little cracks. But I don't recall it ever squealing.

Looks a lot like an automotive serpentine belt, other than it only contacts pulleys and the drum on the ribbed side. If I had to do it again, I'm pretty confident that I could do it quickly and with the right tools. Because I'm going to need a 1/4" ratchet because there's no way I'm going to remove that thermal fuse without one.

But in taking this thing apart, I realize how simple traditional appliances are. Maybe some of the electrical parts do specific things, but it's not difficult to figure out. The ones with all the electronic controls are going to be a lot harder to fix. I'm guessing when a control unit fails, the only repair is to replace the entire unit.

If it is >20 years old, I'd replace it but keep the old belt for a week or two before throwing it away. That will allow you to backtrack if the new belt causes any noises or problems.

 

[Hall]

This one is more electromechanical though.

I suspect ours was a failed thermal fuse as well but I didn't have the patience. I'd have to move the unit out of the laundry room to have room to disassemble it to get to the fuse to even check it. Then after I replace it, I'd need to put it back together and move it back just to test if that fixed it (because of the power outlet). If something else was wrong, I'd have to start over....

 

[Carmudgeon]

I nursed an electric 1970 Kenmore/Whirlpool dryer to the half century mark until one of the sensors failed, but was no longer available.

Replaced one belt, but when it needed one again, I bought the OE kit that included all the various rolling parts, and it ran much better after that, despite retaining the old drum seals. A new belt alone will work, but won't last as long fighting any increased resistance from the drum.

It was nice that the old one was so durable, but the new one that replaced it, same basic design, dried clothes much faster, and had adjustable heat levels to avoid cooking them.

 

[y_p_w]

I don't know exactly what to make of it since I'm getting mixed signals. Some claims are that even with a blown thermal fuse, the motor should turn the drum. Others are that if the thermal fuse blows, the light shouldn't turn on.

However, in taking it apart I noticed a ton of the vent being blocked by caked on lint. I'm guessing maybe 1/3 of the cross-section was blocked, although it was easy to just scoop it out. Some claims are that a blocked vent can result in the thermal fuse blowing.

 

[JimPghPA]

Thermal limit fuses blow for a reason. Check air flow, including dryer exhaust and intake, and also look for lint buildup on air fan impeller.

 

[CarLuver]

thermal fuse has 2 connections. just attach each end together and see if the dryer comes on . thermal fuses usually blow when the dryer vents has a restriction or the belt breaks and does not power the fan .

 

[Nukeman7]

I don't know exactly what to make of it since I'm getting mixed signals. Some claims are that even with a blown thermal fuse, the motor should turn the drum. Others are that if the thermal fuse blows, the light shouldn't turn on.

I believe that the reviews/comments you are seeing online are confusing because of the incorrect terminology being used by the posters. The actual "thermal fuse" is the white plastic fusible link that looks like this:

Just like a true fuse, if this blows, it must be replaced. Most dryer thermal fuses will control power to everything but the interior light.

The other metal button-like thermal sensors are "thermal limit switches", which will trip when it senses temperatures above a specific threshold (e.g., 350 degrees F). When working properly, they will typically reset automatically when the temperature drops below a set point (e.g., 150 degrees F). They are also used in HVAC furnaces and some "thermal limit switches" have a manual reset button like a circuit breaker. The video in Post #5 refers to them as "thermostats".

However, in taking it apart I noticed a ton of the vent being blocked by caked on lint. I'm guessing maybe 1/3 of the cross-section was blocked, although it was easy to just scoop it out. Some claims are that a blocked vent can result in the thermal fuse blowing.

A blocked vent will cause restricted flow resulting in elevated temperatures in the exhaust plenum. This can frequently cause a thermal limit switch to trip offline...typically the one closest to the heating element coil (which is the one you have determined to be defective).

 

[97prizm]

Checked the breakers, and in any case the light turns on.

It’s more a traditional Maytag electric dryer. Just a knob with push to start and basic heat settings. I’m guessing no sophisticated electronics but just a lot of mechanical switches and motors.

I checked the door switch which does turn off the light when pressed in. Still won’t start. It seemed to have stopped mid-cycle. Unplugged it and plugged it back in.

A faulty hi-limit thermostat. Or a faulty timer can cause this exact problem. The dryer thinks it's too hot. Or if the timer goes bad it won't advance.

 

[repairman54]

White plastic thermal fuse blows because the operating T stat stuck closed on Whirlpool built dryers, gas or electric killing power to motor on electrics and power to burner on gas. That's why its mounted next to the operating T stats on the blower outlet housing. Operating stats can erratically stick closed, most common on E dryers but it happens on gas also.
Heater box T fuses blow due to venting issues or lack of lint screen cleaning from insufficient airflow through the heater box.
White plastic T fuse blown, always replace the operating thermostat as a set.

 

[y_p_w]

White plastic thermal fuse blows because the operating T stat stuck closed on Whirlpool built dryers, gas or electric killing power to motor on electrics and power to burner on gas. That's why its mounted next to the operating T stats on the blower outlet housing. Operating stats can erratically stick closed, most common on E dryers but it happens on gas also.
Heater box T fuses blow due to venting issues or lack of lint screen cleaning from insufficient airflow through the heater box.
White plastic T fuse blown, always replace the operating thermostat as a set.

The thermal fuse is in a metal enclosure on this model. It's the same part in the video of the Amana dryer fix someone posted.

 

[ripcord]

I believe that the reviews/comments you are seeing online are confusing because of the incorrect terminology being used by the posters. The actual "thermal fuse" is the white plastic fusible link that looks like this:
View attachment 306037

Just like a true fuse, if this blows, it must be replaced. Most dryer thermal fuses will control power to everything but the interior light.

The other metal button-like thermal sensors are "thermal limit switches", which will trip when it senses temperatures above a specific threshold (e.g., 350 degrees F). When working properly, they will typically reset automatically when the temperature drops below a set point (e.g., 150 degrees F). They are also used in HVAC furnaces and some "thermal limit switches" have a manual reset button like a circuit breaker. The video in Post #5 refers to them as "thermostats".


A blocked vent will cause restricted flow resulting in elevated temperatures in the exhaust plenum. This can frequently cause a thermal limit switch to trip offline...typically the one closest to the heating element coil (which is the one you have determined to be defective).

Excellent post!

 

[PandaBear]

Most of the time when that happened to ours it is the motor worn out and need replacement. Get a Genuine One or a FSP one instead of the no name Chinese one. The Chinese ones burn again after 1-2 years in our experience and the Genuine or FSP one last at least 10.

 

[PandaBear]

It's over 20 years old and has a lot of tiny little cracks. But I don't recall it ever squealing.

Looks a lot like an automotive serpentine belt, other than it only contacts pulleys and the drum on the ribbed side. If I had to do it again, I'm pretty confident that I could do it quickly and with the right tools. Because I'm going to need a 1/4" ratchet because there's no way I'm going to remove that thermal fuse without one.

But in taking this thing apart, I realize how simple traditional appliances are. Maybe some of the electrical parts do specific things, but it's not difficult to figure out. The ones with all the electronic controls are going to be a lot harder to fix. I'm guessing when a control unit fails, the only repair is to replace the entire unit.

You can probably find used control unit too (or in older dryer the control unit is the timer / dial switch combo).

 

[y_p_w]

Got the part this morning. Was actually $5.18 plus tax like the website said. Going to go back to install it tonight. Did have the tester and it’s reading a fairly low value although it seems to be changing all the time, when the bad one was open.

 

[y_p_w]

Feeling kind of silly for not getting the belt. Thought it might be something like $40, but it's less than $15 at the same place I got the fuse.

https://www.reliableparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Wp40111201

Aftermarket belts sell for less than $10.

 

[CarLuver]

Feeling kind of silly for not getting the belt. Thought it might be something like $40, but it's less than $15 at the same place I got the fuse.

https://www.reliableparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Wp40111201

Aftermarket belts sell for less than $10.

my local lowes had belts for sale , which really surprised me.

 

[y_p_w]

my local lowes had belts for sale , which really surprised me.

Likely aftermarket though. But for something like this I'm not sure that's a bad thing. I found one place that says they have the OEM belt for less than $6, but I didn't check the cost of shipping. But I couldn't find any place that had the thermal fuse for as cheap as I paid for it. It was clearly OEM, but not quite the same brand as the original. I think Whirlpool has multiple suppliers for its parts.

 

[CarLuver]

Likely aftermarket though. But for something like this I'm not sure that's a bad thing. I found one place that says they have the OEM belt for less than $6, but I didn't check the cost of shipping. But I couldn't find any place that had the thermal fuse for as cheap as I paid for it. It was clearly OEM, but not quite the same brand as the original. I think Whirlpool has multiple suppliers for its parts.

bought a lot of washer and dryer parts off of amazon and online places . non oem seem to work as good as oem at a fraction of the price .