Effective small engine mufflers

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OVERKILL

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Our cottage came with a chipper and lawn tractor. Both are B&S powered. On both the mufflers are dreadful; I think a straight pipe would be quieter.

Who here has experience in re-muffling one of these engines (one is a 12.5HP single the other is an 8HP single) with something effective? Our Massey Fergusson had a decent muffler on it and so did most of our old power equipment that we had at my grandparent's cottage growing up so this isn't something I've ever had to look into until now.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Are they the "cigar" type screw in mufflers?


The one is. The other one is more of a pancake style that hugs the side of the motor and looks like it should be effective (this is on the tractor). It isn't.
 
I'd either shop around online once you figured out the part #

Or I'd pull the part # and find a good Lawn Store. I've been able to find parts for antiques before. Some Folks just love to collect stuff in their barns, and the guys at the Lawn Stores get to know them well.
You pay a bit of a premium, but typically it is reasonable.

The other thing you can do is get into fabrication. A pipe, some sheet metal, a rivet gun, a soup can filled with a coarse copper scrubber, and a cheap arc welder will make one heck of a muffler.
 
Between a local OPE shop, EBAY, TSC and Northern you should be able to find a similar one. My concern is it will not unscrew and I will be into more work than I was expecting.
 
Both Napa and CarQuest used to have the ability to order odd-ball OPE engine mufflers. They're not cheap though. Some of the serious aftermarket ones are pricey too unfortunately.

Big single cyl flat-heads are loud no matter what you do it seems.
 
You can use one of the available after market mufflers, or you can take off the existing muffler and most engines have the inside of where the muffler mounts threaded to accept threaded black pipe. You have to either use a flexible pipe such as the stainless steel flex pipe you can get from McMaster-Carr, or mount any muffler and the pipe so it is connected to the engine so the muffler and pipe move with the engine. If you do not set it up to move with the engine it will break from the vibrations.

However much of the noise comes from the mechanics of the engine such as the valves, piston, connecting rod, crank, and the air intake.

If you add a larger muffler you probably will not notice any improvement in noise reduction when you are near the engine without ear protection, but if you wear ear protection the reduction in noise will be enough to make a big difference, and if someone is shielded somewhat from the noise such as in a house the reduction in noise will make a big difference (probably to the point where they will barely notice that it is running).

About the best you can do with those engines is to reduce the exhaust noise so it is at the same level as the noise from the rest of the engine.
 
I have changed out a number of these by getting the engine number and asking for the spark arresting muffler from the Briggs and Stratton parts line-up. I have an 8 hp flathead on a chipper from Bolens that was just plain ear-splitting with the stock flat muffler. I put the larger spark arresting muffler on it with a deflector and it purrs now. You hear the mechanics of the blades in the chipper far above any engine noise. Did the same thing with my John Deere rototiller. Same thing with air cleaners, there usually is a can type replacement filter arrangement for most of these engines.
 
Google "Briggs 12.5hp muffler". Prices don't look too bad for a replacement "low tone". Right around $30.

Anything for twins or large OHV singles are a bit on the pricy side.

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I'd either shop around online once you figured out the part #

Or I'd pull the part # and find a good Lawn Store. I've been able to find parts for antiques before. Some Folks just love to collect stuff in their barns, and the guys at the Lawn Stores get to know them well.
You pay a bit of a premium, but typically it is reasonable.

The other thing you can do is get into fabrication. A pipe, some sheet metal, a rivet gun, a soup can filled with a coarse copper scrubber, and a cheap arc welder will make one heck of a muffler.


Just to be clear here, the mufflers on the devices aren't broken or rotten, they just appear to suck at muffling. I was hoping for some options as to something that would be more effective and the flame arrest muffler suggestion seems to be a good one.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.
 
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