I am finishing the rinse phase on my 2000 Trooper. I ran the A-Rx with Castrol 10w30 (1600 miles) and am rinsing with Havoline 5w30 (SM variety). It used 1/2 quart or so on the clean phase and has used a hair over a quart on the rinse. The oil consumption is the reason for the treatment but it has done no good so far. I am preparing to do a 2nd treatment and wondered if anyone had had any results enhanced during the 2nd treatment? The cam gears and metal look better through the filler cap (changed a headlight bulb today) so somthing is happening but not in the rings (or not yet). Any feedback would be appreciated.
Effect of 2nd Auto-Rx treatment?
- Thread starter ncirish
- Start date
- Status
You know I do not often say this. I would recomend that after you second treatment clean and rinse that you try Redline Synthetic oil for one or two oil changes.You would be amazed at what 7000 miles of Redline will clean out for an oil that is. The synthetic esters in Redline should help to clean the ring area as well. Huge difference between natural and synthetic esters in terms of how they clean.
Then go back to your normal oil and oil change interval. If the combination of Auto-Rx and an OCI of Redlien does not do it nothing will short of repairing what ever part is damaged or worn that is causeing the oil consuption.
Then go back to your normal oil and oil change interval. If the combination of Auto-Rx and an OCI of Redlien does not do it nothing will short of repairing what ever part is damaged or worn that is causeing the oil consuption.
My oil consumption went down during my 2nd treatment, but as soon as I switched to synthetic after the treatment, the consumption was pretty bad again (1 quart per 1000 miles); it was no better than pre-treatment. I have since switched to a high mileage synthetic and consumption has dropped to about 1/4 quart per 1500 miles.
I just posted a reply in the "Mechanical...." forum after draining my 2nd cleaning phase of ARX on a 3.1L Pontiac @ 112K miles too. Unfortunately ARX did not seem to help, unless something magical happens in the next 1-2 months into this 2nd rinse phase I am going to view it as a cheap $40 experiment / gamble. The car is running even rougher and using more oil (perhaps since it's winter sometimes subzero with 5W30 oil needed just for the car to start outside).
I am not going to debate the 100s of people that have good luck with this for certain cars and problems but it's not a miracle cure for all oil burning rough running older cars.
I am not going to debate the 100s of people that have good luck with this for certain cars and problems but it's not a miracle cure for all oil burning rough running older cars.
One more thing!!!! Try a thicker oil to reduce consumption!
That is exactly right. It won't cure mechanical problems and never claimed to. However it will do a great job of cleaning an otherwise healthy engine.
John while that may be what I would do in my 10 year old Nissan pickup (uses none by the way) it will only make the problem worse in the Trooper I am afraid. The reason they use oil (3.5 liter DOHC engines 1998-2001) is that the oil drain holes in the rings are too few and too small. Oil gets on there and cooks, gumming up the works. The rinse phase seemd great on a trip to PA over Christmas, more power, very little oil usage, but on the way back it went back to normal. I wonder if it wasnt the interstate driving cooking the Havoline on the rings again. Anyway, I may try some Mobil 1 0w-30, which is about the thinnest 0w30 there is. I would love to run another A-Rx but the dino required seems to have self-inflicted another problem.
Since the auto rx treatment did not slow the oil burning, I agree that a thicker oil is necessary. I believe your best synthetic candidate is Mobil 1 Truck/SUV 5w-40 (aka Delvac 1) since the conventional is not helping.
You need to do the second treatment. It took the second treatment before the consumption was cut in half on my toyota. With your specific problem with the trooper you defintely will take two treatments.
Done 2 treatments on my 99 Trooper - no reduction in consumption - used the 3rd bottle as maintenance to use up the supply.
I will do the piston soak using LC or Seafoam and see if this cures the problem(method has worked with Saturns and NorthStar Engines).
HTH
I will do the piston soak using LC or Seafoam and see if this cures the problem(method has worked with Saturns and NorthStar Engines).
HTH
If your oil consumption is the result of a problem with your piston rings or valve stem seals, you can AutoRx the thing till you're blue in the face and it won't make any difference in the consumption.
AutoRx may be an excellent cleaner, but it won't fix worn out seals or rings.
AutoRx may be an excellent cleaner, but it won't fix worn out seals or rings.
"Anyway, I may try some Mobil 1 0w-30, which is about the thinnest 0w30 there is."
The Mobil specs show that Mobil 1 0W30 is the thickest of the xW30 Mobil 1 oils at 212 degrees.
The Mobil specs show that Mobil 1 0W30 is the thickest of the xW30 Mobil 1 oils at 212 degrees.
If rings sticking and geting carboned up is an on going design issue you really need to use Redline!
JohnB, I may indeed do that with the Redline as it is a design issue. Dickwells, I mean that it is the thinnest of the 0w oils, not 30wts. Dr T, you run a 50wt on a DOHC engine if you want to but the rest of us probably will not. Please offer constructive advice next time.
Why are you guys looking for improvement with 30 weight oils....either conventional or synthetic...most if not all will have consumption. These are oils that probably were not designed for these engines and nobody uses in them from their country of origin. Try using some 40 or 50 weight synths and then comment on consumption issues...
It was constructive advice. 30W = CAFE
Don't be so harsh on the advice. The trooper manual actually lists a 50wt oil for high ambient temps...
The real secret is to use ARX before the problems arise. Nothing can repair physically damaged parts, but new parts. Oiling system contaminants don't just arrive one day. Its a building process.
Its a building process that snowballs. What happens is with every fresh oil fill, the detergents in the new oil are consumed with the residing past contaminants, rather than protecting from the future contaminants. Kind of like shoveling it against the tide. ARX has performed miracles for some folks on this board. But it is really supposed to be proactive product as opposed to a reactive product.
Terry, you are right on the mark.
Its a building process that snowballs. What happens is with every fresh oil fill, the detergents in the new oil are consumed with the residing past contaminants, rather than protecting from the future contaminants. Kind of like shoveling it against the tide. ARX has performed miracles for some folks on this board. But it is really supposed to be proactive product as opposed to a reactive product.
Terry, you are right on the mark.
My point was that Redline is not going to gum up in the ring area period! I have never ever seen Redline gum up rings even on street applications running insane boost levels and NO2! It would not matter if he hand cleaned his pistons rings grove/lands if the oil gums-up due to design issues he is back to square one! So short of replaceing the pistons and rings with redesigned ones an oil that is less prone to guming and cokeing is going to be the ideal way to go!
- Status