Ecotec 1.4 Sludge

Most times when they say they follow the "OLM", that is code for they reset it a couple of times or more before addressing it if they ever do.

I went through similar with my adult age daughter. They either get it or do not and then you have to ask yourself if you want to keep being the fallback for their bad decision making or make them pay the stupid tax?
25w60..😂. Problem solved. Just explain to her that you have a nominally high inheritance that you received from your grandmother that would be going to her and you are not against her having it but if she can't manage to care for an automobile respectfully and honestly there's no way you're going to turn her loose with 10 million dollars 💵. Now before you have this conversation what you need to do is take a small thumbtack and put underneath your big toe and then put your shoes back on and every time you're tempted to break character or laugh or giggle I want you to slightly step down on that tack to stay in character. You will thank me later.

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We put 142k on a Cruze 1.4T … transmission fluid plan is 30k … but I did it at 20k bcs it was very easy …
Other than planned/unplanned plastic - (valve cover at 100k - very clean) did well considering who drove it hard - my son …
Once again the experts here don’t mention how many they owned …
 
We put 142k on a Cruze 1.4T … transmission fluid plan is 30k … but I did it at 20k bcs it was very easy …
Other than planned/unplanned plastic - (valve cover at 100k - very clean) did well considering who drove it hard - my son …
Once again the experts here don’t mention how many they owned …
My sister has 150k on hers. Recently needed a timing cover gasket, oil pan “gasket.”. It had had a new water pump (extended warranty at 110k) and new valve cover. I always changed transmission at 40-45k. Had to put new TCM/Valve Body assembly in at 120k (TCM died). This was on top of course of the regularly expected Cruze plastic cooling system issues. My synopsis: This engine, despite its turbo, is actually pretty robust insofar as the actual block is concerned. The transmission seems to do pretty well also (as far as mechanical function is concerned). However, I would consider the entire powertrain assembly “fragile.” By this I mean frequent oil changes with full synthetic and above all- coolant level checks on a weekly basis. Those 1.4’s which were fed a diet of semi-synthetic Dexos from the dealer for the first half of their at OLM intervals should be approached with caution. I think my having the original turbo is as a result of only using Mobil 1 from day one. A lot of 1.4’s (I suspect especially those that were using semi-syn dexos) suffered from coking in the turbo oil feed line, that of course caused issues.
 
We put 142k on a Cruze 1.4T … transmission fluid plan is 30k … but I did it at 20k bcs it was very easy …
Other than planned/unplanned plastic - (valve cover at 100k - very clean) did well considering who drove it hard - my son …
Once again the experts here don’t mention how many they owned …
Great comment

I have a variation of this engine, with 1.5L Turbo. I am always in the camp of "don`t judge the oil by its colour" mantra, but there are two points I have noticed on my vehicle:

1)It darkens the oil much faster than anything I have ever seen that is not diesel. We put Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 in it when I bought, and in only 700 miles the oil got completely dark (yes, I changed the oil in only 700 miles because I am going to get a tune and want xw30 in it). My FA24 engine did not turn Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 that dark after 3k mile, and that had quite a few autocross days involved. Subjectively, I would say that 3k mile oil was maybe half way as dark.

2) It leaves more oil in the car than what I am used to when you drain the oil. I have not checked its pan design, but I am guessing it must be related to that. I replaced that ESP with 5w30 molygen, and idled the engine for about 40 seconds (to make sure filter is full), let the car rest for an hour and checked the oil colour and it is already quite brown. That means there must have been considerable amount of oil left in the engine to cause such colouration.

So overall I perceive my 1.5T is one of those exceptionally hard on oil, but otherwise a great engine/transmission system. It might be that changing the oil before seeing 0% on the OLM is a good strategy. But I would expect some Valvoline Restore and Protect treatment to do well to the engine. If really concerned (and have access to the vehicle), a 2-3k mile interval on the first time might be a good idea. If not, 4-5k mile OCI sounds like a good idea, and should be enough to solve the sludge issue.
 
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My sister has 150k on hers. Recently needed a timing cover gasket, oil pan “gasket.”. It had had a new water pump (extended warranty at 110k) and new valve cover.
I replaced the turbo oil feed line and put Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in yesterday. I'm debating whether I should swap out all the plastic cooling hardware before something fails at an inconvenient time. She already had the coolant bottle nipple break. Luckily I was able to replace it at the gas station.

I've read about failures in other parts of the cooling system and I'm worried something will go out somewhere where I won't be able to replace it. Seems prudent to just do it proactively so I don't have to worry about it. Don't want a cooling system failure to take out the engine and I get much better pricing on parts when I can order in advance.

I have the items below on my to-do list:

PVC bypass kit
Coolant outlet
Water pump
Thermostat housing
Spark plugs

Trying to tackle items that may cause catastrophic failure first.
 
I would put the coolant outlet and that little hose that runs off the top of it (maybe to coolant bottle nipple if I recall?) at the very top of the list. Also, the hose that runs to the front of that outlet (one of the radiator hoses) seems to take a beating, I would replace that also. If using worm drive clamps do not overtighten. I haven’t had any problems with thermostat housing. You order parts from NAPA online or use gmparts.com to get better pricing in advance? The amount you can routinely save at NAPA from online ordering is usually pretty reasonable.
 
We put 142k on a Cruze 1.4T … transmission fluid plan is 30k … but I did it at 20k bcs it was very easy …
Other than planned/unplanned plastic - (valve cover at 100k - very clean) did well considering who drove it hard - my son …
Once again the experts here don’t mention how many they owned …

I service my Mother-in-law's 2016 Buick Encore 1.4T, and it sits at 132k right now. I maintain it meticulously.
OCI is 5k/6months. (Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30)
Transmission is at 50k. The manual calls for 45k, but 50k is easy to remember, and an extra 5k isn't going to destroy the transmission.
All other items, such as engine air filter, cabin air filter, spark plugs, etc., are as called for.

My thoughts on the 1.4T
***I don't think it's the engine itself; it's everything that's attached to it that's crap.***

Work I've done on it from ~50k until now.

1. A/C compressor replaced.
2. Valve cover (Diaphragm ruptured), Intake Manifold (Check valve gone), PCV tube from the intake to the Turbo. (Crap PVC system all around)
^^^^All of #2 at the same time. It's the check valve in the intake that lets go, and then it cascades from there until it starts running rough and setting codes. (As a side note, it was shiny and spotless under the valve cover.)
3. Thermostat housing
4. Water inlet
5. Wastegate Solenoid
6. Camshaft position actuator solenoid seals (Puking oil out of them)
7. #7 is about to be the timing cover. It has started leaking from the cover somewhere behind the A/C compressor bracket. I'm putting this off to see how bad it gets.

Luckily, I haven't had to do the Oil filter/cooler assembly. (Very common on the GM 1.4T)

I repaired so many GM 1.4T engines with the same issues at the car lot. Most of those I could forgive, they were auction cars that were rode hard and put up wet. I can't forgive this Buick, it has been well-maintained.

This is an insane amount of work to have to do on a vehicle to make it to 132k. I hate the GM 1.4T with a passion.

Anyway,.....how was your day? :unsure: ;) 🍻
 
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Late to the party… the oil you choose won’t change what you see. The oil is being prematurely fouled with blowby, moisture and raw fuel thanks to GMs switch from port to direct injection. Eventually clogging the PCV system. Worse if you’re up north in a cold. Check out Dave’s world on YouTube. He has a website. He goes over all the problems with that engine and how to fix it. He has PCV upgrades, catch can, other things to prevent a buildup of crud in the turbo and intercooler. Making the engine breathe better will keep the motor oil cleaner for longer. Less exposure to fouling fumes. That will also help with oil consumption if you have that.
 
She's rather...lets say, independent, so I'm pretty hands off.
So, your daughter doesn't gave a guy to take care of her vehicle?
Did you convince her to let you take care of her car?

Valvoline Restore and Protect won't clog any oil lines because the oil goes first through the oil filter and it catches all of the gunk.

In this case, I would run the oil for about 2,000-2,500 and take off the filter for inspection (hope is a cartridge filter) and then decide and eventually replace it add up oil and go to 5,000 miles or replace all the oil and filter.

If her engine burns oil and the oil went below min. I'm not sure if the the OLM would alert for that.
People on here usually change their oil when is about 20-15% on the OLM. They never wait until 0%.
 
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