Hi all! I have an echo gt-200r string trimmer i recently replaced fuel filter fuel lines the gas tank vent i got a brand new carb as well i changed the intake manifold and carb and intake mani gaskets yet the trimmer runs then dies. My frustration is the primer bulb sometimes wont pick up gas even though the brand new fuel filter is submerged and the tank is full of gas. I push the button and it purges out the gas in some positions. Then i tilt the trimmer and it will pick gas up like normal and the fuel filter is STILL in a position where it picks gas up. This leads the trimmer to run fine but then die as i need to tilt it to do my lawns. While the trimmer runs though, the trimmer head spins meaning it is idling faster than it should and touching the idle screw will only make the trimmer stall. No gasket is leaking and engine seals are dry too. This thing is only 3 years old i know echos are supposed to be way better than this. I refuse to throw it away knowing there has GOT to be an easy tiny little problem and i need your help to find it. All help is VERY appreciated!
Echo gt-200r wont stay running
- Thread starter Jesush
- Start date
- Status
pure gas or E10?
Using 32:1 mix of blue marble 2 stroke oil and 100 octane leaded gas
Originally Posted By: Jesush
Using 32:1 mix of blue marble 2 stroke oil and 100 octane leaded gas
The fuel sounds good and a new carb so jets are clean too.... air leak at the intake gasket? Test with starter fluid by spraying around gasket to observe if idle increases. Air leak makes it lean obviously.
Using 32:1 mix of blue marble 2 stroke oil and 100 octane leaded gas
The fuel sounds good and a new carb so jets are clean too.... air leak at the intake gasket? Test with starter fluid by spraying around gasket to observe if idle increases. Air leak makes it lean obviously.
I replaced the intake manifold with a new echo part as well as intake manifold and carburetor gaskets. All these parts are bone dry
Originally Posted By: CT8
Are the gas lines installed backwards?
The yellow fat line has the fuel filter attached, that one i presume went into the fat barb of the carburetor and the thin black one i presume is the return line going into the smaller diameter barb on the carburetor. The third line is the gas tank vent line. I switched the yellow line to the thin barb and the black line to the fat barb and the machine ran for a little longer but still ended up idling fast then dying after couple minutes of use when the primer bubble wouldnt suck up more gas unless i held the trimmer in a different angle. Then it would run again but of course at a faster than normal idle until dying yet again.
Are the gas lines installed backwards?
The yellow fat line has the fuel filter attached, that one i presume went into the fat barb of the carburetor and the thin black one i presume is the return line going into the smaller diameter barb on the carburetor. The third line is the gas tank vent line. I switched the yellow line to the thin barb and the black line to the fat barb and the machine ran for a little longer but still ended up idling fast then dying after couple minutes of use when the primer bubble wouldnt suck up more gas unless i held the trimmer in a different angle. Then it would run again but of course at a faster than normal idle until dying yet again.
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
"This thing is only 3 years old i know echos are supposed to be way better than this."
Why are you replacing parts on it yourself???
Echo has a 5 year warranty if the trimmer is used for residential (i.e., non-commercial) applications. Take it back to the dealer for warranty service.
Why are you replacing parts on it yourself???
Echo has a 5 year warranty if the trimmer is used for residential (i.e., non-commercial) applications. Take it back to the dealer for warranty service.
Originally Posted By: Nukeman7
"This thing is only 3 years old i know echos are supposed to be way better than this."
Why are you replacing parts on it yourself???
Echo has a 5 year warranty if the trimmer is used for residential (i.e., non-commercial) applications. Take it back to the dealer for warranty service.
Right but i got this thing on craigslist for cheap and no i didnt get a receipt from previous owner.
"This thing is only 3 years old i know echos are supposed to be way better than this."
Why are you replacing parts on it yourself???
Echo has a 5 year warranty if the trimmer is used for residential (i.e., non-commercial) applications. Take it back to the dealer for warranty service.
Right but i got this thing on craigslist for cheap and no i didnt get a receipt from previous owner.
Originally Posted By: old1
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
Copy/Paste your first post to this forum under Technical Discussion.
Get the serial number off of it and post that too.
Get the serial number off of it and post that too.
Originally Posted By: Jesush
Originally Posted By: old1
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
How to build an air leak tester and test for an air leak on a two stroke engine.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/432226-pressure-testing-a-2-stroke/
Originally Posted By: old1
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
How to build an air leak tester and test for an air leak on a two stroke engine.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/432226-pressure-testing-a-2-stroke/
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Does this require the gas tank to be pressurized, and does the cap hold pressure?
No, do not pressurize the gas tank. Yes, exhaust cap holds pressure as seen in the photos in link provided.
Does this require the gas tank to be pressurized, and does the cap hold pressure?
No, do not pressurize the gas tank. Yes, exhaust cap holds pressure as seen in the photos in link provided.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Does this require the gas tank to be pressurized, and does the cap hold pressure?
Cap holds no pressure there is an external brand new one way valve straight from echo
Does this require the gas tank to be pressurized, and does the cap hold pressure?
Cap holds no pressure there is an external brand new one way valve straight from echo
Originally Posted By: Shrubitup
Originally Posted By: Jesush
Originally Posted By: old1
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
How to build an air leak tester and test for an air leak on a two stroke engine.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/432226-pressure-testing-a-2-stroke/
Looks interesting! Easy to adapt to a thumper since it has a round intake and exhaust port. To put the gauge in a small rectangular port is harder since theres no pvc plugs for that where i can hook up a vac/pressure tester to it. Its a project id have to do to do the pressure test. Almost seems cheaper to buy all engine gaskets and 2 new crank seals....its strange though since the engine is clean and dry
Originally Posted By: Jesush
Originally Posted By: old1
Possibly a seal or gasket somewhere, anywhere on the crankcase etc. leaking. Have you run a vacume me test on the engine? You won't see leaks like with a 4 cycle engine because the crankcase is sucking not blowing.
I have not ran a vac test. I dont have the equipment for that nor know how to perform that test. What will it reveal and will it point put to the air leak area?
How to build an air leak tester and test for an air leak on a two stroke engine.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/432226-pressure-testing-a-2-stroke/
Looks interesting! Easy to adapt to a thumper since it has a round intake and exhaust port. To put the gauge in a small rectangular port is harder since theres no pvc plugs for that where i can hook up a vac/pressure tester to it. Its a project id have to do to do the pressure test. Almost seems cheaper to buy all engine gaskets and 2 new crank seals....its strange though since the engine is clean and dry
I could be totally off since it runs, but check the ignition wire carefully, and also a new plug when you are at it.
I had a curve trimmer that ran, maybe a little weak, sometimes hesitating and sometimes it started and just died for no reason.
It proved to be a broken ignition wire. It was off inside the wire coating and was often close enough to ignite and run but only ran full throttle and a bit weak.
Soldered a new (used from a car) wire and it runs like a champ, idling and revving like new.
Let us know who's right!
I had a curve trimmer that ran, maybe a little weak, sometimes hesitating and sometimes it started and just died for no reason.
It proved to be a broken ignition wire. It was off inside the wire coating and was often close enough to ignite and run but only ran full throttle and a bit weak.
Soldered a new (used from a car) wire and it runs like a champ, idling and revving like new.
Let us know who's right!
Originally Posted By: lars11
I could be totally off since it runs, but check the ignition wire carefully, and also a new plug when you are at it.
I had a curve trimmer that ran, maybe a little weak, sometimes hesitating and sometimes it started and just died for no reason.
It proved to be a broken ignition wire. It was off inside the wire coating and was often close enough to ignite and run but only ran full throttle and a bit weak.
Soldered a new (used from a car) wire and it runs like a champ, idling and revving like new.
Let us know who's right!
I will i wont go missing in action like alot of new people do when they post asking stuff then never post what happened that stuff makes me sick
I could be totally off since it runs, but check the ignition wire carefully, and also a new plug when you are at it.
I had a curve trimmer that ran, maybe a little weak, sometimes hesitating and sometimes it started and just died for no reason.
It proved to be a broken ignition wire. It was off inside the wire coating and was often close enough to ignite and run but only ran full throttle and a bit weak.
Soldered a new (used from a car) wire and it runs like a champ, idling and revving like new.
Let us know who's right!
I will i wont go missing in action like alot of new people do when they post asking stuff then never post what happened that stuff makes me sick
- Status