Early Oil Chnages in OPE engines

[Bror Jace]

In many outdoor power equipment (OPE) threads here on BITOG, it stressed that you should give your engine an early oil change in order to flush out break-in debris. The idea is that those particles, not constrained by a filter, are likely to promote additional wear the longer they are left in the crankcase.

I am one of the propponents of that idea.

Like all theories, it is difficult to prove. However, here is some strong evidence to consider:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee149/BrorJace/Snowblower_OilSample_zps40854167.jpg

I changed the oil in my 2011 Ariens snowblower (B&S engine) after just 90 minutes of run time. I saved the oil for a long time, forgetting about it for over a year as it (approx 20 ounces) sat in a bottle. Letting it settle, I poured off about 95%, saving just an ounce or so of the dirtiest oil in a glass jar. You can see how much metal was in this sample by looking at the picture in the link above.

So, my recommendation remains that you should drain the factory oil out of all OPE engines after the first 1.5 to 2.5 hours ... and then again in another 5-6 hours. The engine probably isn't finished breaking-in at the 2 hour point and you probably left at least an ounce or two of the original (particle filled) oil in the crankcase after the first drain.

 

[LeakySeals]

I agree, but it does NOT include automobile engines!

 

[Bror Jace]

LeakySeals, I mostly agree. Automotive engines have full-flow oil filters to catch a majority of the wear debris.

Also, I suspect modern automotive engines are built to much higher tolerances so they shed less metal (per cc) than OPE engines.

Still, I tend to make the first oil and filter change interval short ... say 1,000 - 2,000 miles.

Also, I should point out that that glass jar has a 'dimple' in it so the center rises up slightly. Essentially, the metallic bits settled into a ring around the outside of the bottom of the jar. The sludge in the center was thinner ... or else NO light would have shown through.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I agree, but it does NOT include automobile engines!

A hot topic, I've stated my opinion on the topic many times. Opinions vary that's for sure!

OP every OPE engine I had from new had a lot of metal in the oil after the first oil change. I'd change it out early and often until I wasn't seeing shiny metal particles in the oil. I want that metal out of the engine as fast as possible.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

OP every OPE engine I had from new had a lot of metal in the oil after the first oil change. I'd change it out early and often until I wasn't seeing shiny metal particles in the oil. I want that metal out of the engine as fast as possible.


Same here. I also change the automotive engine's factory fill early too, but not as often as an OPE engine without a filter.

 

[volk06]

I just did the 5 hour break in oil change on my toro mower. The oil looked like glitter! Will be doing my power washer break-in oil change tonight

 

[1999nick]

Following the manufacturer's instructions should be all that is necessary. They generally say to change the originsl fill at 5 hours, and then change the oil every 25 hours thereafter.

I have a mower with Honda 160 OHC engine, purchased 13 years ago in 2000. I did the 5 hour oil change, and then yearly oil changes using M1 synthetic, usually 5W30. My yearly oil changes are usually at 55 to 60 hours.(I have an hour meter on my mower.) It has never, in 13 years, used any oil between yearly changes. It now has over 700 hours on it.

It is a front wheel driver, and it is on its third set of front wheels and second transmission and drive belt. The engine has required only a couple of spark plugs and yearly air filter changes.

Obviously, one hour and several more early oil changes would have been a total waste.

 

[JR]

1999nick what about long teplus jhrs.
Kenrm. I have engines that run half the total hours your has in six months. I have a vanguard 12.5hp w/ 3,750

 

[123Saab]

On my Husqvarna Walk behind I filled it with G-oil 10w-30 4stroke when new, Mowed for about 10-12hrs and then changed it out to same brand again. Now it gets changed every spring, Thats it.

I'm sometimes amazed how lawnmowers can last, many people stick the factory oil that comes with their new mower in it and then run it for 5-6 years!

 

[Bror Jace]

Nick, you and anyone else are free to simply follow the factory manual and leave it at that. Your particular engine in that one application seems to have survived well enough. My father has a Honda Harmony mower purchased in the late 80s that is still running well. Perhaps it would have survived to this day without the extra TLC I gave it? The only replacement parts I ever put on it in all that time were 1 or 2 blades, 1 or 2 spark plugs and one air filter.

However, if someone is willing to put a little extra thought into the upkeep of their OPE, it's sound advice to flush out the break-in debris more than once in the first 10 hours.

Remember, we're talking about 20 ounces (two thirds of one quart) of oil for one extra change before the 10 hour mark, not 'several'. In the lifetime of a piece of equipment costing $300 - $3,000+ , that's really insignificant. I think your term "total waste" is a silly exaggeration.

Who knows, maybe that extra oil change is worth a few percentage points of compression over the life of the motor? Given how hard it is to do statistically relevant, real-world testing, we'll probably never have proof that the extra care will have any effect. However, common sense suggests that having a couple hundred milligrams of shrapnel swimming around in your crankcase, even if for just a handful of hours, isn't a good thing.

 

[1999nick]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
Nick, you and anyone else are free to simply follow the factory manual and leave it at that. Your particular engine in that one application seems to have survived well enough. My father has a Honda Harmony mower purchased in the late 80s that is still running well. Perhaps it would have survived to this day without the extra TLC I gave it? The only replacement parts I ever put on it in all that time were 1 or 2 blades, 1 or 2 spark plugs and one air filter.

However, if someone is willing to put a little extra thought into the upkeep of their OPE, it's sound advice to flush out the break-in debris more than once in the first 10 hours.

Remember, we're talking about 20 ounces (two thirds of one quart) of oil for one extra change before the 10 hour mark, not 'several'. In the lifetime of a piece of equipment costing $300 - $3,000+ , that's really insignificant. I think your term "total waste" is a silly exaggeration.

Who knows, maybe that extra oil change is worth a few percentage points of compression over the life of the motor? Given how hard it is to do statistically relevant, real-world testing, we'll probably never have proof that the extra care will have any effect. However, common sense suggests that having a couple hundred milligrams of shrapnel swimming around in your crankcase, even if for just a handful of hours, isn't a good thing.


My Honda 160 has lasted 13 years of average homeowner usage without showing any sign of wear, despite going more than twice as long on the OCI as the manual specifies. It still uses NO oil in my 60 hour OCI. In my mower, if it would not have been a total waste, exactly what benefit would my mower have derived from two or three extra early oil changes? I stand by my claim of "total waste".

 

[1999nick]

Originally Posted By: JR
1999nick what about long teplus jhrs.
Kenrm. I have engines that run half the total hours your has in six months. I have a vanguard 12.5hp w/ 3,750


What is "teplus jhrs"?

 

[Bror Jace]

"My Honda 160 has lasted 13 years of average homeowner usage without showing any sign of wear, despite going more than twice as long on the OCI as the manual specifies. It still uses NO oil in my 60 hour OCI. In my mower, if it would not have been a total waste, exactly what benefit would my mower have derived from two or three extra early oil changes? I stand by my claim of 'total waste'."

That's one particular (well made) engine in one application. I wouldn't recommend the same for all OPE in all conceivable applications.

Total waste? Of what ... about $1? Um, OK.

 

[lars11]

Well, I like changing oil so I do it more often than (maybe) necessary in all my engines.

One thing though, does anyone know what's in that glitter? If soft metals like alu or brass(?) then I understand why it doesn't kill engines immediately, or ever...

Around our house most lawns are small,like 3-8 000 sq ft, and with the 5 mo summers here most people don't really put in 25 hrs a year on their mowers so even if neglected to the max mowers will last for years. Generally people whine about hard starts, that go away immediately with new membranes and maybe plug.
On the farm on the other hand, the bar mower, lawn mower, tiller, chainsaws and brush cutters see maybe 10-20x that hours per year in yard/garden work.
So for people doing 1000 sq ft of lawn, well, first 5 hrs maybe two years!

 

[VNTS]

I do the same, although only recent OP I bough was a Areins LM21 with the Kaw 180 on it. Ran it an hour and dumped it, then after a couple of more mowings and then again half way thur summer.
The engine has a filter so now I change at end of season with new filer and dump the oil half way thru season.

Per autos, also dump the oil early. Asked Ed Peters( head reliability engineer at Chrysler in 90's and also a couple Shelby Dodge guys) about oil and he said Chrysler and all auto companies just buy bulk oil( chrysler paid 7 cents per qt at the time) of SG CD spec. Nothing special in the oil for break in and what not and dumping the oil early wouldnt hurt anything as far as break in, mentioned the Shelby models came with mobil 1 from Whittier. So I dump FF oils early a few times.

 

[danthaman1980]

I think early oil changes in OPE are very important. Several years ago I had a Honda GCV160 mower - the initial Honda 10W-30 was a normal brown color when I added it to the new engine, but when I changed it in the middle of the first season the oil was GREEN! Every oil change after that (annual) the used oil looked normal.

I just dumped the initial fill in my current mower (Craftsman/B&S 550EX) after 4-5 hours of use, and it was dark gray with some noticeable metal shavings. I'll probably run this fill (T5) the remainder of the season and move to annual changes after that. My yard is pretty small, so the mower will probably only see 15-20 hours per year.