Dyno user considering Synthetic.

[BelAir]

Recommendation needed for a '99 Mountaineer running a Ford 4.0L SOHC using Synthetic.

I just replaced my Mounty 4.0L SOHC 160k engine; owned it since 30K and always used cheap dyno oil + Wix filter and kept engine tuned. I've seen the insides of more engines than the average Joe and this engine has the most flaky, thick gunk that I've ever seen. The replacement engine, 50K 4.0L, looked new inside so I'm thinking now is a good time to convert it to Syn. It's a DD (School months: 3mi commute plus 50mi freeway use on weekends; Summer: no commute but more freeway, ~2k miles a month.)

Thanks

 

[Doog]

Syn oils will keep it cleaner than dino. How long were your oil change intervals? I would not go past 5000 if you don't want sludge issues.

 

[Astro14]

Nothing wrong with dino...but if the engine had thick, flaky gunk, it was either run too long, or you've got some other problem, like stuck PCV, excessive blowby, coolant leak...something that contaminated that dino...if the dino was changed regularly, the engine should be nice and clean inside....

 

[salesrep]

Plenty of good threads on synthetics. Do a quick search.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: BelAir
owned it since 30K and always used cheap dyno oil + Wix filter and kept engine tuned. I've seen the insides of more engines than the average Joe and this engine has the most flaky, thick gunk that I've ever seen.


Signed up two years ago and this is your first post? Welcome. You must be shy....
What were your oil brands and oil change intervals with the original engine?

 

[SwampSurvivor]

The 4.0s aren't prone to sludge. Must be the short tripping.

 

[billythekid]

If you are not stretching the OCI out too long, the conventional (just can't bring myself to use the Dino word because it has no true meaning) oil would be suitable. There is a lot of love for Pennzoil conventional around here, and I have been very impressed personally with that I have read on here and my own experiences with the Mobil 5000 conventional. I think either of those would be great for you if you. If you wanted to extend the OCI a synthetic may hold up better. In all reality, it is your money to spend and your piece of mind, so the choice is yours on what you want to run.

 

[BelAir]

Not really shy, searches usually gave me answers but I've read somewhere that these engines run hotter. Usually changed oil every 2,500-3,500 miles. Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, Federated... cheap 5-W30 but always wix filter. Engine always ran well, no codes, no noticeable excessive blow-by, forgot about the PCV. Old engine ran fine until the rear timing chain tensioner went. The gunk was everywhere oil splashed but didn't wash, under valve covers...this gunk wasn't like the fine, smooth slime lining pulled oil pan, it was flaky like soggy wheaties.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Stick with dino and just keep it changed regularly. My gf`s Mustang has the 4.0 and I`ve tried both synthetic and conventional,and it definitely runs the best on dino. I`ve been using Valvoline 10w30 conventional and a Motorcraft filter.

 

[BelAir]

That's what I was thinking, poor thing doesn't even have time to warm-up. Maybe the splash sticks then dries.

 

[2James1]

I am partial to Mobil...that being said I would recommend Mobil 1 5w30 and Purolator Pureone filter...but your engine would honestly more than likely not notice a difference if you went to Walmart and bought the cheapest name brand synthetic(probably Quaker State Ultimate Durability) and a Purolator Classic filter($3.27 where I live). As long as you changed at reasonable intervals.

 

[BelAir]

Thanks guys, wish me luck on the newer engine tensioners. (knocks on wood)

 

[jfking106]

I think you figured out the problem: PCV system. Check all the hoses connected to it, make sure they're not caked shut. I recently had to do the same on my 92 Civic beater that I bought off of a friend's wife. The hoses connected to the breather box to the PCV valve, an from the valve to throttle body were almost completely sludged shut with a mixture of red dirt (dirt road driveway) and oil. It was baked to the consistency of brick, almost. Make sure you change your air filter, also. Some here argue that they don't start to filter efficiently until they're almost clogged, but I just replace mine yearly. It's less than $15, cheap insurance.

 

[threeputtpar]

We had one of those 99 Mountaineers, too. The timing chain went at 139k, but mainly because my now wife abused the heck out of it before I met her. The plugs and tires were the originals, no joke (don't the steel belts give me better snow traction?). I guess she just met me too late for the poor vehicle to survive.

If you have an Autozone near you, they are blowing out the Quaker State Ultimate Durability for $2 a quart. That's what I'm using in out 05 4.0 right now with no issues. Wix is a good filter, but the Motorcraft FL-820S is it's equal and priced a bit less.

 

[bigblumer]

I'd run dino all the time if I didn't keep finding syn on sale for the same price as dino, or FAR. You can do the same too if you keep watching the Ads and BITOG for rebate deals, unless using the same brand every time is important to you.

 

[dave1251]

For our 4.0 Exploder we used trop artic 5W30 with napa gold filters. It worked great. I would place the blame somewhere else the 4.0 does not run that hot.

 

[FZ1]

Consider a syn blend and/or Valvoline Maxlife. You don't want to clean it up so much it leaks oil.

 

[Maxima97]

Since your ford use dino all its life, at this mileage, it is not necessary to use synthetic. The current SN dino are mostly group II+ base and very close to group III 'synthetic' on the market. The factory uses Motorcraft Blend which is a very good group II and III blend. I have a same SUV like yours, the 4.0L filter is in very odd location and used oil will pour on LCA. I normally send it to firestone which uses Kendall (Motorcraft clone) for 5K OCI with $19.99 coupon. Even with Ecore filter, it is a good deal not to pour dirty oil on your driveway. Currently I am using PU just to clean the engine, after this, I will switch back to dino blend at the most and let other do it.

 

[Astro14]

But if I read his post correctly, this engine died, and he's putting in ANOTHER 4.0...and wants to run that one on synthetic...so, what the previous engine ran on is of little consequence...

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Non of the major brands are "real" synthtec" (save for PU). All the major oil Co's lie like dogs about their oil being synthetic - it aint no such thing! - its just premium mineral oil.

Run what the car likes. Mine likes Quaker State Ultimate Durability OK today.

So how does being lied TO ALL THESE YEARS to make you feel?

One of these days I'll try some Amsoil Signature ATM or whatnot just to see what a real synthetic oil performs like.