Dual bypass filter

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When I was referring to the engine's bypass valve, I meant pressure relief valve. Actually the terms are one and the same. Sorry for the confusion.

I don't have my dual bypass system hooked up yet in my car. I had to first dig up an adapter fitting to get an oil pressure gauge hooked up. I want to make sure I have a "before and after" picture of oil pressure at high and low RPM.

Others that have the same car I have state that they have seen oil pressure readings as high as 95 psi at redline, and that the pressure increases linearly with RPM up to that pressure. That tells me that (at least on my car) the pressure relief valve kicks in above 95 psi.

RavenTai: you say that "when I start my truck cold the oil pressure goes strait to 70 even at idle". Are you using straight weight oil? That's different than the experiences I've had.
 
up until last oil change I have been running M1 10w30 just changed to german castrol, both seam to act the same with regards to oil pressure
 
quote:

Originally posted by slalom44:
I'd like to comment on the pressure drop issue, since there appears to be some misinformation out there.

First, I don't believe that Bob's testing and/or results are flawed. They tell us what we want to know about the drop in pressure through a DB setup. Nice to know, but it does not measure the effect it has on actual engine oil pressure since the test was not designed to do that.

In every engine that I'm aware of, the oil pump is a mechanical pump that pumps oil at a relatively contstant flow rate. Unlike an air compressor that builds up pressure, an oil pump pumps a relatively constant flow rate of oil regardless of the back-pressure (as long as it does not exceed the bypass valve pressure designed in most engines).

Pressure drop across a filter is important because it can tell you how sensitive that filter is to activating its internal bypass valve if the media gets restricted and/or oil flow is very high.

Since oil pressure is always measured after the oil filter (but before the oil galleys), you are actually measuring its resistance to flow through the galleys. Given a viscosity, that means that you are indirectly measuring the flow rate of oil to the galleys.

There is a misperception that the increased resistance across the DB setup significantly affects the flow of oil. This is not true for obvious reasons. Oil pumps aren't separate underpowered electric motors that bog down flow with increased resistance. They are powered by the camshaft (in most cars) and therefore the flow is relatively constant regardless of backpressure at the oil pump.

Oil pumps operate by the turning of eccentric "gear teeth" that squeeze the oil to create oil flow. It is true that as back-pressure increases in the pump, some of the oil doesn't get squeezed through, resulting in a small loss of flow. That would explain the few PSI drop that people have experienced.

Engine manufacturers could care less what the oil pressure is in a car. What they really want to know is the oil flow. But reliable flow meters are not practical, and so using oil pressure to indirectly measure how much oil is going through the galleys is the next best thing.

This is why the DB setup works, and the guys at Amsoil knew this when they designed and built the Dual Bypass filter setup. I just bought one, and can't wait to install it in my car!!


I'd like to throw in a few thoughts here:

Some oil psi senders are plumbed before the filter.

Bob's testing proved one thing that is clear. The Amsoil Dual remote mount will NOT handle the same throughput volume as the single Fram full flow element used pure and simple.

IMHO, the hoses used are too small.

Now I guess there is one thing to consider. What size was the hose opening draining from the after gauge? If it was larger than the from filter hose, this will cause psi drop. If sized the same, then things are nearly equal.

It would be interesting to see what would happen in a direct plumb setup with the gauges mounted directly at the filter mount's in/out ports.


Personally, I'd have chosen a non bypass equipped element.

A couple of things worth remembering:

A filter bypass is a differential psi valve. If the psi drop exceeds the rating it will open.

Pressure drop as measured in Bob's test is only a serious concern IF the bearing clearances etc. allow a major drop in psi.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kennedy Diesel:
Some oil psi senders are plumbed before the filter.

What engines have that? That doesn't even make sense. With that setup, you could theoretically have a totally plugged oil filter, pressure relief valve wide open, high oil pressure and absolutely no oil getting to the engine.

Sure, the Fram oil filter can handle more flow because the bypass valve can open up. But the Amsoil full flow filter on the DB setup is much larger than most standard filters, therefore can handle more fully filtered flow.

I've yet to hear from anyone that has claimed to have a problem with the dual bypass setup. Everyone is entitled to their opinion as to how ineffective this setup might be, but at this point they are just opinions.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kennedy Diesel:

Bob's testing proved one thing that is clear. The Amsoil Dual remote mount will NOT handle the same throughput volume as the single Fram full flow element used pure and simple.

IMHO, the hoses used are too small.


That is just untrue, Those hoses are big enough to flow more oil than your engine will ever need. All these comments about Bob's backyard test are so messed up. Do you think that is the type of testing that went into the Bypass system?

I am not away of any engine restrictions for the by-pass filter, I'm not aware of any problems associated with the by-pass system.

I have seen the exact same Amsoil Dual Remote System mounted on cars from little 4 cylinder 125hp to 400+hp Diesel engines. All oil analysis have improved over regular filtration. Engines are lasting longer with oil drains 10-100 times that with regular filtration.

So why don't we move to a different subject.
 
???

There is actually quite a negative discussion of the BMK-13 dual filter mount on pages 5 and 6 of Bob's original oil test. There ARE some very significant concerns and actual measurements on these pages that would cause me not to use such an arrangement on my engine. Others are free to make their own judgements...

IMO, the most relevant and irrefutable information was posted originally on Bob's study (page 6) by nooklvr, an actual user of the Amsoil BMK13. I apologize for the long quote here, but I think it is needed to reduce the number of hypotheses/opinions being posted on this subject. We need some actual numbers/experiences and the following user comes the closest to this:



quote:

nooklvr
Junior Member
Member # 1566
posted May 29, 2003 10:47 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by cryptokid:

install a REMOTE oil filter mount on a car!! use a car as a test subject.
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Well, I have a 1998 Camry V6 and have an Amsoil DR on it, and this discussion about that device got me worried a few days ago, so I did an experiment and have a few things to report.
Note: I'm using the Amsoil BP-110 bypass filter and SDF-26 full flow in an effort to get more oil capacity in this engine, because of its reputation of being hard on oil. This brings the total capacity up to about 8 quarts. I'm using Redline 5W-30 oil.
I installed identical pressure gauges at both the input and output and compared readings with and without the spring restrictor removed with both cold and hot oil.
1. There is slightly more delay of buildup of oil pressure with the restrictor in place, about a second or two, presumably because the bypass filter must buildup some pressure for the spring to open.
Compared to the 'stock' setup, with no DR installed, there is more startup 'rattle'. With the DR and bypass spring installed, it takes about 3-4 seconds for this rattle to dissappear on a cold start after sitting for 4 days. This is about the same as when starting up for the first time in stock setup after an oil change.
2. After a cold start, the pressure goes up to about 80 psi on either side, which seems to be the setting of the pressure relief valve for this engine. There isn't much drop across the DR , maybe a few pounds, but pretty insignificant. Repeating this test with the restrictor removed did not make an appreciable difference.
3. With the oil at operating temperature, idle pressure is usually 15-20 psi. This seems low to me, but I don't know what is typical for this engine. Pressure drop across the DR was again not appreciably different. Removing the restrictor also didn't result in an appreciable difference.
4. Where I did notice a significant drop across the DR was at higher rpm's with the oil at operating temperature. For the pressure relief valve [measured at the input of the DR] to be triggered, rpm's of at least 3K had to be produced. That makes for about 85 mph, 4th gear in lockdown. The output of the DR showed a drop of 10 psi or so and this decreased by about 5 psi with the restrictor removed.
The only thing I can think of why Bob's test showed such a high pressure drop across the unit is possibly because his test setup doesn't provide the backpressure looking towards the engine that this test setup did, so flow requirements in his setup are more demanding. Every engine design would be different in this respect. I'm sure there are engines out there with more and wider bearing journal clearances that would be much more demanding than this Toyota V6.
Data that I would like to have is the typical oil pressures on this engine when the filter system is in stock form with a Toyota full flow filter. Anybody?
I had an oil analysis done before the last oil change with Blackstone as the lab. I have no previous analysis to compare this to.
Miles on vehicle: 96600
8100 miles on Redline 5W-30 oil.
results / 'universal averages' (3600 miles)
Aluminum 5 / 3
Chromium 1 / 1
Iron 7 / 9
Copper 4 / 4
Lead 2 / 4
Tin 0 / 0
Moly 589 / 47
Nickel 1 / 0
Manganese 0 / 1
Silver 0 / 0
Titanium 0 / 0
Potassium 0 / 1
Boron 24 / 43
Silicon 22 / 19
Sodium 9 / 5
Calcium 2629 / 1524
Magnesium 19 / 538
Phosphorus 1234/ 732
Zinc 1294 / 856
Barium 1 / 0
Viscosity @ 210F = 62.7
Flashpoint 405
Fuel Antifreeeze 0
Water 0
Insolubles .3
TBN 9.5
I 'believe' the silicon number is relatively high because I think I got some dirt on the lip of the sampling bottle. [expletive deleted]
Overall, these seem to me to be quite nice numbers. How much the bypass is affecting the wear metals one way or the other, I have no idea.
Conclusion:
I don't like the cold startup rattle that this device makes the engine produce. Although this test indicates that it functions fairly well with this engine, I think that the standalone bypass with it's dedicated lines and restrictor combined with a full flow in the standard place is a more optimum way to go. The extra plumbing and the restrictor spring cause enough startup pressure delay to make me want to modify this unit by removing the spring restrictor device, installing two bypass filters. The union on the full flow would have to be changed to a 1", and installing the static restrictor fitting and re-routing the hoses to the oil sending device would also have to be done. This way, it would be like the BMK-12, but with larger diameter hoses, which should do no harm.
Anybody know the thread diameter of the filter union on the opposite side of the full flow filter?

While the Amsoil bypass filter appears to be doing a good job (just look at the oil analysis results), Nooklvr's conclusion is my conclusion -- there are better ways to connect a bypass filter to an engine, ones that do not have increased bearing/rod noises ("rattle") at startup and ones that have no potential or real issues with reduced oil flows or pressures.


Steve
 
That's a very good post, Mangusta. There's a lot of good information there, and it was put together in an unbiased, believable format.

I would have expected a lower pressure ceiling at high RPMs as described, but not the valve train noise at startup. It would be interesting to see his installation. If one of the ADBVs did not close adequately and the system was mounted significantly higher than the car's oil filter mount, then he may be getting some siphoning back to the oilpan. I find it hard to believe that the restrictor alone would account for the rattle.
 
It has been quite a while since I read Bobs oil filter flow test but I am not quite sure but the filtered return oil returned to the sump with out a restriction after the filter ?[the oil pumped through the bearings etc. is the restriction so you will see as the engine wears the clearences increase and the oil pressure decreases] If so the the filters were not operating as designed.
 
Interesting quote Steve. It's also interesting that no matter where you stand on this issue you can read the contents and find it supports your opinion.

There was a barely measureable drop in pressure, and a noticable drop at high rpm. According to the flow Flow capacity formula, this is exactly what you would expect to happen when you pump the same fluid through two different pices of hardware with different flow capacities at the same rate of flow, and compare the drop in pressure from one end to the other.

We have no reason to expect the rate of flow in a positive displacement pump driven by a computer controlled engine will change depending on what is connected to the pump. The difference between the stock filter and the DB is not even significant enough to make a measureable difference in gas milage.

In general we know
1) If you reduce the flow capacity of the by-pass and flow the same fluid at the same rate, (gallons per minute,) the pressure will increase on the input side. It's going to take increased pressure to pump at the same rate.

Based on the formula we know this to be true:
1) If you reduce the flow capacity of the by-pass and flow the same fluid at the same rate, the pressure drop from, (input to output) will increase.

2) If you increase the rate of flow through any by-pass filter the pressure drop will increase

3) If you increase the viscosity, (resistance to flow,) the flow capacity of any filter will be reduced and as a result, pressure drop will increase. This is the case when oil is cold and thicker.

The best way to determine if your engine is getting enough oil is to measure the rate of flow. Since flow meters are expensive we use a pressure gage as a meaningful measure. A DB will increase the oil pressue on the input line, and reduce the pressure on the output line, increasing the pressure drop measured between the two, even though the rate of flow is unchanged.

What we need to ask is this, Is the psi of the oil in the oil galleys lower with at DB? Does the psi of the oil in the galleys matter? Does the DB filter increase oil pressure in front of the pump? What is the real loss of oil pumped through the system? Is it a significant amount, and where does it go?

[ December 31, 2003, 09:42 PM: Message edited by: greencrew ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Some people here have some incredible oil pressures. Some I find hard to believe in a contempory engine that typically specifies 5w-30 so that it consumes less energy to pump the lubricant through the engine. This is the ONLY reason for the evolution of these lighter weight oils. 70 psi on anything other than a high performance engine is wasting so much energy I find it an "anomaly". I would find 25-45 psi a more credible number (warm -off idle).

Beyond all that ....


looks like that is for me, the motor is a 8.1L chevy (496CI big block) based on the old 454 with a longer stroke and installed in a "heavy duty" truck that is rated to haul/tow a large amount, not what you would traditionally call high performance but not a standard engine either.

just because things do not fit your expectations does not make them impossible


but I do agree with some of what you said as I said earlier in the thread

quote:

Originally posted by RavenTai:
IF the motor in question always has its relief valve closed then it would be as you say, all oil pumped is delivered to the moving parts, that would make a big difference

but if the pressure relief valve is open increased resistance to flow will result in reduced flow to the oil galleys.
 
quote:

just because things do not fit your expectations does not make them impossible

Quite true
smile.gif
Now your application is "high output", to add a 'nomer' to the mix (hyper,HO,HD) ...but unless I see a I-ROC, Z, Boss, or HO, SVO, or something of that nature (maybe some Euro or rice rocket -turbo)...I kinda think that the owner is a victim of misinformation. How many years did people think that they had a real oil pressure gauge in the Ford products that only really had an idiot light expressed by a needle? I just have a hard time understanding why an entire industry would develop a whole line of lubricants specifically designed to lower oil flow's impact on hp consumption (the 5w-30 genre resulting in lower resistance to flow and subsequently lower pressures) ..only to have another whole industry neutralize that advantage (fuel savings) by increasing the output of their pumps. Even NASCAR engine builders have developed a whole school of oiling system design around high volume/low pressure lubrication to put more hp where it belongs.

Naturally I believe my readings
grin.gif
..but that's because I installed my pump and the relief rating is exactly what I see on the gauge.

If some of my post sounded redundant to parts of yours ...it is more my inability to integrate others descriptive style ..then it is of me ignoring what you posted.
 
Greencrew,

I think we need to put everything on an even playing field. If you're talking flow ...keep everything in flow. If you're talking pressure ...you've got to compare issues based on that alone. The two just don't interchange in this environment easily ..at least in regard to "perception".

Some people here have some incredible oil pressures. Some I find hard to believe in a contempory engine that typically specifies 5w-30 so that it consumes less energy to pump the lubricant through the engine. This is the ONLY reason for the evolution of these lighter weight oils. 70 psi on anything other than a high performance engine is wasting so much energy I find it an "anomaly". I would find 25-45 psi a more credible number (warm -off idle).

Beyond all that ....

Unless you're up against the pressure relief of the oil pump (which we will for the moment say is the MAX oil pressure that the engine EVER achieves (this is not always so - in my case the high volume pump can produce more flow than can be relieved so my 58 psi can be pushed to 60+ on a really cold day right after start up). Hence it doesn't matter (IN REGARD TO FLOW) whether you have a Fram ..a dual bypass ...or an open can ..the flow remains the same. Only the energy (pressure) disapated to pump is is distributed differently overcoming the resistance to the flow. 5 gpm is 5 gpm. To the engine ..it means "I'm seeing 5 gpm of flow @ 30 psi" ..or "I'm seeing 5 gpm of flow @ 45 psi".

So it could be said that any pressure under the oil pump's pressure relief rating gives FULL FLOW and is otherwise indifferent to any intermediate restrictions.

Yes, pressure drop is resistance to flow ..but the way most here perceive it is with the ASSUMPTION of reduced flow. They don't have the natural ability to apply the theory with flow being a constant.

That all being said ....why don't those who don't like the little "biasing" valve just take it out? I adapted my PermaCool (already plumbed) to use the Cummins size Amsoil filters (their threaded adaptors) and the only thing that occurs (and this occurs WITH the restrictor valve installed as well) is that the bypass has a reactive component, or "impedence", to higher viscosities (cold oil) and will naturally route most of the oil throught the full flow until the oil thins after warm up.

The thing works fine without it albeit to a lesser degree of filtration efficiency.
 
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