I'd like to throw in a few thoughts here:quote:
Originally posted by slalom44:
I'd like to comment on the pressure drop issue, since there appears to be some misinformation out there.
First, I don't believe that Bob's testing and/or results are flawed. They tell us what we want to know about the drop in pressure through a DB setup. Nice to know, but it does not measure the effect it has on actual engine oil pressure since the test was not designed to do that.
In every engine that I'm aware of, the oil pump is a mechanical pump that pumps oil at a relatively contstant flow rate. Unlike an air compressor that builds up pressure, an oil pump pumps a relatively constant flow rate of oil regardless of the back-pressure (as long as it does not exceed the bypass valve pressure designed in most engines).
Pressure drop across a filter is important because it can tell you how sensitive that filter is to activating its internal bypass valve if the media gets restricted and/or oil flow is very high.
Since oil pressure is always measured after the oil filter (but before the oil galleys), you are actually measuring its resistance to flow through the galleys. Given a viscosity, that means that you are indirectly measuring the flow rate of oil to the galleys.
There is a misperception that the increased resistance across the DB setup significantly affects the flow of oil. This is not true for obvious reasons. Oil pumps aren't separate underpowered electric motors that bog down flow with increased resistance. They are powered by the camshaft (in most cars) and therefore the flow is relatively constant regardless of backpressure at the oil pump.
Oil pumps operate by the turning of eccentric "gear teeth" that squeeze the oil to create oil flow. It is true that as back-pressure increases in the pump, some of the oil doesn't get squeezed through, resulting in a small loss of flow. That would explain the few PSI drop that people have experienced.
Engine manufacturers could care less what the oil pressure is in a car. What they really want to know is the oil flow. But reliable flow meters are not practical, and so using oil pressure to indirectly measure how much oil is going through the galleys is the next best thing.
This is why the DB setup works, and the guys at Amsoil knew this when they designed and built the Dual Bypass filter setup. I just bought one, and can't wait to install it in my car!!
What engines have that? That doesn't even make sense. With that setup, you could theoretically have a totally plugged oil filter, pressure relief valve wide open, high oil pressure and absolutely no oil getting to the engine.quote:
Originally posted by Kennedy Diesel:
Some oil psi senders are plumbed before the filter.
That is just untrue, Those hoses are big enough to flow more oil than your engine will ever need. All these comments about Bob's backyard test are so messed up. Do you think that is the type of testing that went into the Bypass system?quote:
Originally posted by Kennedy Diesel:
Bob's testing proved one thing that is clear. The Amsoil Dual remote mount will NOT handle the same throughput volume as the single Fram full flow element used pure and simple.
IMHO, the hoses used are too small.
While the Amsoil bypass filter appears to be doing a good job (just look at the oil analysis results), Nooklvr's conclusion is my conclusion -- there are better ways to connect a bypass filter to an engine, ones that do not have increased bearing/rod noises ("rattle") at startup and ones that have no potential or real issues with reduced oil flows or pressures.quote:
nooklvr
Junior Member
Member # 1566
posted May 29, 2003 10:47 AM
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quote:
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Originally posted by cryptokid:
install a REMOTE oil filter mount on a car!! use a car as a test subject.
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Well, I have a 1998 Camry V6 and have an Amsoil DR on it, and this discussion about that device got me worried a few days ago, so I did an experiment and have a few things to report.
Note: I'm using the Amsoil BP-110 bypass filter and SDF-26 full flow in an effort to get more oil capacity in this engine, because of its reputation of being hard on oil. This brings the total capacity up to about 8 quarts. I'm using Redline 5W-30 oil.
I installed identical pressure gauges at both the input and output and compared readings with and without the spring restrictor removed with both cold and hot oil.
1. There is slightly more delay of buildup of oil pressure with the restrictor in place, about a second or two, presumably because the bypass filter must buildup some pressure for the spring to open.
Compared to the 'stock' setup, with no DR installed, there is more startup 'rattle'. With the DR and bypass spring installed, it takes about 3-4 seconds for this rattle to dissappear on a cold start after sitting for 4 days. This is about the same as when starting up for the first time in stock setup after an oil change.
2. After a cold start, the pressure goes up to about 80 psi on either side, which seems to be the setting of the pressure relief valve for this engine. There isn't much drop across the DR , maybe a few pounds, but pretty insignificant. Repeating this test with the restrictor removed did not make an appreciable difference.
3. With the oil at operating temperature, idle pressure is usually 15-20 psi. This seems low to me, but I don't know what is typical for this engine. Pressure drop across the DR was again not appreciably different. Removing the restrictor also didn't result in an appreciable difference.
4. Where I did notice a significant drop across the DR was at higher rpm's with the oil at operating temperature. For the pressure relief valve [measured at the input of the DR] to be triggered, rpm's of at least 3K had to be produced. That makes for about 85 mph, 4th gear in lockdown. The output of the DR showed a drop of 10 psi or so and this decreased by about 5 psi with the restrictor removed.
The only thing I can think of why Bob's test showed such a high pressure drop across the unit is possibly because his test setup doesn't provide the backpressure looking towards the engine that this test setup did, so flow requirements in his setup are more demanding. Every engine design would be different in this respect. I'm sure there are engines out there with more and wider bearing journal clearances that would be much more demanding than this Toyota V6.
Data that I would like to have is the typical oil pressures on this engine when the filter system is in stock form with a Toyota full flow filter. Anybody?
I had an oil analysis done before the last oil change with Blackstone as the lab. I have no previous analysis to compare this to.
Miles on vehicle: 96600
8100 miles on Redline 5W-30 oil.
results / 'universal averages' (3600 miles)
Aluminum 5 / 3
Chromium 1 / 1
Iron 7 / 9
Copper 4 / 4
Lead 2 / 4
Tin 0 / 0
Moly 589 / 47
Nickel 1 / 0
Manganese 0 / 1
Silver 0 / 0
Titanium 0 / 0
Potassium 0 / 1
Boron 24 / 43
Silicon 22 / 19
Sodium 9 / 5
Calcium 2629 / 1524
Magnesium 19 / 538
Phosphorus 1234/ 732
Zinc 1294 / 856
Barium 1 / 0
Viscosity @ 210F = 62.7
Flashpoint 405
Fuel Antifreeeze 0
Water 0
Insolubles .3
TBN 9.5
I 'believe' the silicon number is relatively high because I think I got some dirt on the lip of the sampling bottle. [expletive deleted]
Overall, these seem to me to be quite nice numbers. How much the bypass is affecting the wear metals one way or the other, I have no idea.
Conclusion:
I don't like the cold startup rattle that this device makes the engine produce. Although this test indicates that it functions fairly well with this engine, I think that the standalone bypass with it's dedicated lines and restrictor combined with a full flow in the standard place is a more optimum way to go. The extra plumbing and the restrictor spring cause enough startup pressure delay to make me want to modify this unit by removing the spring restrictor device, installing two bypass filters. The union on the full flow would have to be changed to a 1", and installing the static restrictor fitting and re-routing the hoses to the oil sending device would also have to be done. This way, it would be like the BMK-12, but with larger diameter hoses, which should do no harm.
Anybody know the thread diameter of the filter union on the opposite side of the full flow filter?
looks like that is for me, the motor is a 8.1L chevy (496CI big block) based on the old 454 with a longer stroke and installed in a "heavy duty" truck that is rated to haul/tow a large amount, not what you would traditionally call high performance but not a standard engine either.quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Some people here have some incredible oil pressures. Some I find hard to believe in a contempory engine that typically specifies 5w-30 so that it consumes less energy to pump the lubricant through the engine. This is the ONLY reason for the evolution of these lighter weight oils. 70 psi on anything other than a high performance engine is wasting so much energy I find it an "anomaly". I would find 25-45 psi a more credible number (warm -off idle).
Beyond all that ....
but if the pressure relief valve is open increased resistance to flow will result in reduced flow to the oil galleys.quote:
Originally posted by RavenTai:
IF the motor in question always has its relief valve closed then it would be as you say, all oil pumped is delivered to the moving parts, that would make a big difference
Quite truequote:
just because things do not fit your expectations does not make them impossible