Dryer wiring failure; replace terminal block with better connectors?

M

MyWifesBoyfriend

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Sep 2, 2016
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We inherited an old Whirlpool dryer from the 60/70s (240V 30A). It's been fine with some upkeep - replacing the thermostats, belt (new old stock), etc. The biggest issue I have with it is the screw down wire lug/connectors; they seem to loosen up overtime from movement, resulting in a loose connection, higher resistance and eventually burnt/melted wires. The first instance was at the heating element, and now one of the live wires melted at the terminal strip that bonds the plug wiring to the machine wiring. I noticed that some connections were folded-over stranded wiring with the screw down lugs, while the stranded wiring was soldered solid at other connections. "Technicians" have been through this machine in the past, so I'm not sure what's original and what's been hacked together as a fix.

Anyway, I'm not crazy about this type of screw down connector, especially with stranded wiring. What is the best way to prevent this from happening again? Solder the stranded wiring solid and reuse the terminal block? Bypass the terminal block with Wagos? Wago 221-612 is rated for 600V, 30A and 10-20 AWG wiring.

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The wires got corroded, created resistance ,built up heat and burned. Looks like someone worked on it at some point.. Tightly taped Buchanons is what I would do. If there's room for a box, I would have all connections contained in there. Change out all overheated wiring.
 
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Shouldn't be any reason you can't just eliminate the block. Will make it harder to change cables in the future, but it might not matter to you. Cut the wire back to where you get good wire, connect with your favorite method (Not WAGO). I would use a non-insulated butt connector and heat shrink. I don't care for WAGO's in constant high current applications.

Granted, mine is a sample size of 1 and lots of people use them in that application, I will not. These were pulled from the AC/Heat unit in my travel trailer. (The current consumption of the unit is no greater than 14a constant). Don't get me wrong, I love using the things, just not in big constant current applications.

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Tie up the wire appropriately and you're done.
 
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You can definitely replace it and have a variety of options. I haven't seen them in a long time but when I worked at an electrical supply house, we sold replacement terminal blocks, made out of that old, black plastic (same that old phones were made of 🤣 - can't remember the name). Smashing stranded wire with fasteners isn't ideal by any means and even soldering it might not help as enough pressure will just break the solder, won't it ? For stranded, I'm not sure what would be the best solution though....
 
Hall said:
You can definitely replace it and have a variety of options. I haven't seen them in a long time but when I worked at an electrical supply house, we sold replacement terminal blocks, made out of that old, black plastic (same that old phones were made of 🤣 - can't remember the name). Smashing stranded wire with fasteners isn't ideal by any means and even soldering it might not help as enough pressure will just break the solder, won't it ? For stranded, I'm not sure what would be the best solution though....
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That old black plastic was called Bakelite!
 
Thanks everyone. I went back in there and the plug side wiring was 8awg (because stranded I guess) and too big for Wagos. I cut back to good wiring, soldered the stranded wires solid and reused the terminal block.

And yeah, the wiring was quite corroded so I think @Lubener nailed it. All said and done, the dryer seems to be spinning faster?! Not sure if it's in my head or maybe there was less voltage with the corrosion?

While I was at it, I changed the 240V receptacle so that it was oriented vertically (ground at top) instead of sideways (live prong at top). I found the neutral connection loose at the receptacle!
 
Hall said:
You can definitely replace it and have a variety of options. I haven't seen them in a long time but when I worked at an electrical supply house, we sold replacement terminal blocks, made out of that old, black plastic (same that old phones were made of 🤣 - can't remember the name). Smashing stranded wire with fasteners isn't ideal by any means and even soldering it might not help as enough pressure will just break the solder, won't it ? For stranded, I'm not sure what would be the best solution though....
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Bakelite probably
 
Geekhead said:
Bakelite probably
Click to expand...
Yeap, that's the term.

Hall said:
For stranded, I'm not sure what would be the best solution though....
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Had a brain fart earlier.... Get a new terminal block along with fork or ring terminals and crimp those on to the stranded wire. That's how new dryer cords are as well. You can find a 3-terminal version or just use a 4-terminal and remove the extra connection (or leave it).
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probably best not to use a connector like this one shown above,as it has no saddle clamp, when you tighten down a stranded wire with a screw only it tends to distort the strands and thinning the contact surface and over time tend to loosen by vibration and wire fatigue,,,use only a saddle type clamp,and when installing one do the tighten/loosen a few times till properly and firmly seated, and make sure the stranded wire is twisted correctly also.
 
Hall said:
Yeap, that's the term.


Had a brain fart earlier.... Get a new terminal block along with fork or ring terminals and crimp those on to the stranded wire. That's how new dryer cords are as well. You can find a 3-terminal version or just use a 4-terminal and remove the extra connection (or leave it).
View attachment 250763
Click to expand...
Problem with that is you have an added crimp connection at the spade lug. One additional possibility for failure. I would use that just for low voltage applications.
 
Lubener said:
Problem with that is you have an added crimp connection at the spade lug. One additional possibility for failure. I would use that just for low voltage applications.
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Just about every dryer cord you buy today uses crimped connectors now though so they, and UL, are okay with it.
 
Hall said:
Just about every dryer cord you buy today uses crimped connectors now though so they, and UL, are okay with it.
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I don't buy into it. Not low voltage crimp on spade connectors, basically speaker connectors. . ...Show proof. Where do you get "dryer" cords? Never had one go bad.
 
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