Dropped a tool in the TC bung hole

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
One hour and 45 minutes to yank the engine, fix it, and replace it???
Yeah right.....


I was not including the timing belt work in that time frame. just in and out.

The Subaru engine comes out easy. The transmission has the mounts so you don't have to mess with those. Just remove the water hoses, vacuum hoses,wires radiator, lay the AC compressor over, pull the bell housing bolts, take off the hood and the engine comes right out.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
One hour and 45 minutes to yank the engine, fix it, and replace it???
Yeah right.....


I was not including the timing belt work in that time frame. just in and out.

The Subaru engine comes out easy. The transmission has the mounts so you don't have to mess with those. Just remove the water hoses, vacuum hoses,wires radiator, lay the AC compressor over, pull the bell housing bolts, take off the hood and the engine comes right out.



How long for that job?

 

[ron917]

Originally Posted By: Chris142

The Subaru engine comes out easy. The transmission has the mounts so you don't have to mess with those. Just remove the water hoses, vacuum hoses,wires radiator, lay the AC compressor over, pull the bell housing bolts, take off the hood and the engine comes right out.


Use the alternate prop rod point(s) and the hood stands straight up. No need to take it off. Save yourself an extra few minutes

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
One hour and 45 minutes to yank the engine, fix it, and replace it???
Yeah right.....


I was not including the timing belt work in that time frame. just in and out.

The Subaru engine comes out easy. The transmission has the mounts so you don't have to mess with those. Just remove the water hoses, vacuum hoses,wires radiator, lay the AC compressor over, pull the bell housing bolts, take off the hood and the engine comes right out.



How long for that job?


Most things like that are way shorter after you've done a few. The first time you're playing around wondering where to start ..or consulting the manual. You see too many "things" and can't isolate the umbilicals.

Air tools help.

 

[Jim Spahr]

Why not call or visit your local friendly Sub dealer and ask the mechanics. They have probably run into this same situation once or twice. Go on the Sub specific tech forums and inquire. Have you tried using a strong magnet on the outside of the case-starting at the bottom- and 'walk' the lost part up to the inspection port until you can access it? Keep trying...I think you can do it without pulling the engine.

 

[Gary Allan]

We novices or casual mechanics just give up too soon. I've seen many tasks that aren't legitimately possible performed many times. That is, there's no way to write the procedure out in detail. You just have to screw with it until you fall into the right combination of body language. The most skilled mechanics (both auto and industrial) were typically "winging it" when something like this occurred (and it has and does occur). It's just that they have been winging it longer ..and therefore have been winging it better.

 

[Eddie]

+1 Jim S. with the dealer sugestion. keep at it

 

[eljefino]

Chris is right on. Just man up and go for broke. Selling the thing as is will give you a major bath.

That was me 6 or 7 years ago when a brake caliper froze up in the middle of nowhere, actually, a NAPA parking lot

, and I considered costs of towing plus the mechanic's labor plus the part then went for broke, way out of my comfort zone then. Had to use the factory service manual under my jack to keep it from sinking in the dirt so was truly blind. Noone was more suprised than me when it came out okay and I gingerly hit the pedal and the truck stopped!

 

[pacem]

Update, got a couple of magnetic pullers off Ebay (from links above) -- no success.

Question, if the 3/8" extension dropped all the way to the bottom of the torque converter, maybe it's just settled at the very bottom without disturbing anything? I explored all the space I could get to with the magnetic pullers and it's nowhere to the side, I think it has to have hit the bottom.
The two magnetic pullers I have are just not long enough, I think I need an extra long one.

I think that the tension I feel when moving the crank bolt is maybe a cycle of the engine?

Also keep in mind that I have removed a lot of the accessories like belts, alternator, hoses, radiator... so if I have to move the engine forward a few inches, it shouldn't be too hard?

Any idea what's involved in that? Engine mount bolts, torque converter bolts - what else?

 

[Hirev]

Where is the starter on this engine? Is it possible to pull the starter to get better access with a flexible magnet?

 

[AdRock]

Pop the plugs out and then see if you still feel tension when try to turn the crank bolt. If you do the extension is jammed down there. Turn the engine the opposite direction and it might free the wedged tool enough that the magnets could get it.

 

[Gary Allan]

I didn't re-read all the posts ..but what's that sensor in the image? I'd reason that it's your crank position sensor. Can't you get something flexible to send through the other side and (perhaps) move the extension within range of your pickups through the regular opening?

 

[pacem]

TPS sensor? Not sure.

I will take the plugs out and see what happens...