Can a transmission flush be done on a '05 chevy silverado on the driveway or garage? If so what do I need to do it or should I take it and have it done with a t-tech machine.
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Drive way transmission flush
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As long as you have accessable transmission lines ( either hard lines or flexible rubber) you can perform a cooler line flush. On some GM vehicles with the hard lines I connect some clear 3/8 hose to perform the flush. Granted I have never performed one on a 05 but it shouldnt be any more difficult unless the lines are buried. I have used this 4 foot length of hose on a bunch of different cars. Its simple and works great. Have you ever done a cooler line flush before?
You can probably do a better flush than they do with a machine. First if you can you should change the ATF in the pan. Hopefully you have a drain plug. This will make for the least mixing of old and new fluid. Fill the trans with the amount you drained.
Then remove the return line and point it into a clear gallon container. You may need to extend the return line with some clear hose and a connector. Then start engine and wait for 2 QTs to pump out. It will probably pump out about 1 QT/minute.
Then add 2 QTs and do it again until the fluid coming out looks like new fluid or until you have gone through the total capacity (its listed on Amsoil website).
Then add what is needed to get a good reading on dipstick.
An alternative some people use is to pour in new ATF while doing the flush, in some vehicles you can add it at same rate it gets pumped out, but in other vehicles you can not add it fast enough.
If my vehicle had a small trans pan (like 2 QTs), I would drain the pan and refill the pan with an extra QT so I could pump out 2 QTs at a time without emptying the pan.
When you are done plan some extra time to allow for all the ATF to run down the dipstick tube so you can get a good reading and properly fill the trans.
If you do the flush yourself, you can save $100+ and can afford to use some synthetic ATF.
Then remove the return line and point it into a clear gallon container. You may need to extend the return line with some clear hose and a connector. Then start engine and wait for 2 QTs to pump out. It will probably pump out about 1 QT/minute.
Then add 2 QTs and do it again until the fluid coming out looks like new fluid or until you have gone through the total capacity (its listed on Amsoil website).
Then add what is needed to get a good reading on dipstick.
An alternative some people use is to pour in new ATF while doing the flush, in some vehicles you can add it at same rate it gets pumped out, but in other vehicles you can not add it fast enough.
If my vehicle had a small trans pan (like 2 QTs), I would drain the pan and refill the pan with an extra QT so I could pump out 2 QTs at a time without emptying the pan.
When you are done plan some extra time to allow for all the ATF to run down the dipstick tube so you can get a good reading and properly fill the trans.
If you do the flush yourself, you can save $100+ and can afford to use some synthetic ATF.
I did my 2005 in my drive way. Under the hood on the passenger side near the radiator there is a 3/8 hose you can cut and flush from. Get two pieces of clear tubing and two hose couplers. Take both ends and stick them in a bucket. (unless you know which one is in and out) After finished, just put an inline filter. I used a magfine one or just patch back together.
Have fun.
Have fun.
Never done one before but this doesn't sound too bad.Looks like I will need 2 (4)ft pieces of clear tubing,couplers and a five gallon bucket. Should I do 2 qts at a time?? What are the drawbacks of not doing a pan drop before?? Total capacity looks to be 11 qts. Thanks
Two quarts at a time is the standard recommendation. That way you are usually safe from cavitation due to running the fluid too low in the sump. As far as a pan drop goes everyone has their opinions on this, I always drop the pan to clean or replace the screen and clean/inspect the pan. I do this regardless of mileage. Of cousre it becomes necessary when your pan is not equipped with a factory drain plug because you will want to start with the pan full of fresh fluid.
Amsoil has this flush procedure on there website. Just type transmission flush in the search engine and it will come up. Also, I am now running a bypass filtration setup on one of my cars. A bit overkill, but oh well. For your application look into a Magnefine in-line filter. I would install it after performing the flush. It will catch any extra liberated materials and add a extra level of protection.
Amsoil has this flush procedure on there website. Just type transmission flush in the search engine and it will come up. Also, I am now running a bypass filtration setup on one of my cars. A bit overkill, but oh well. For your application look into a Magnefine in-line filter. I would install it after performing the flush. It will catch any extra liberated materials and add a extra level of protection.
Chezz.Most shops I've asked near me will hook up and use your fliud for $35.00.The dealer wanted $65.00. Tire stores(3) wanted $35.00. A heck of a lot easier and no mess.I'm not about to do that in my driveway to save $35.00
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You bring up a good point but you are forgetting something. Let's say you bring them some Amsoil ATF and they don't put it in? It happened to a guy on this site. Another issue is the new fluid you provide being mixed with the existing fluid in the flush machine!
The reason I do it myself is because I don't trust some moron at the tire store or local lube rack. I'm not attacking your point, I just feel like it's an issue of a job done right and less about economics.
The reason I do it myself is because I don't trust some moron at the tire store or local lube rack. I'm not attacking your point, I just feel like it's an issue of a job done right and less about economics.
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If you feel you're in need of a flush or want to change the trans. fluid to a better fluid then I would recommend dropping the pan to replace the filter, see what kind of debris there is, and make sure you are starting with fresh fluid in the pan. If you leave old fluid in the pan and just flush you will be mixing old and new fluid at the beginning of the flush and you will not have as effective of a flush.
Once you've done it once and know the best place to hook up your clear tubing it is pretty easy on most cars. I prefer to do it myself since I know it will get done properly which is easily worth the mess, if there is any. Make sure the clear tube is securely attached or held into the dump container, the pressure of the fluid coming out can flip the hose out of the container (don't ask how I know). Having a helper makes it easier but isn't necessary. Mark quart lines on the 5 gallon bucket so you can tell how much has been pumped out.
I have the same (or similar but older) transmission in my wagon and I've upgraded to Dex VI fluid with good results. It has been close to 15k miles and well over a year with lots of towing this summer at close to the 5k lb towing limit. I'm quite happy with the fluid. Lots of people like Amsoil as well but I've never tried it.
I have concerns about how much fluid will get mixed in a T-tech machine if the last person's car used a different fluid (quite likely). Do it yourself.
Once you've done it once and know the best place to hook up your clear tubing it is pretty easy on most cars. I prefer to do it myself since I know it will get done properly which is easily worth the mess, if there is any. Make sure the clear tube is securely attached or held into the dump container, the pressure of the fluid coming out can flip the hose out of the container (don't ask how I know). Having a helper makes it easier but isn't necessary. Mark quart lines on the 5 gallon bucket so you can tell how much has been pumped out.
I have the same (or similar but older) transmission in my wagon and I've upgraded to Dex VI fluid with good results. It has been close to 15k miles and well over a year with lots of towing this summer at close to the 5k lb towing limit. I'm quite happy with the fluid. Lots of people like Amsoil as well but I've never tried it.
I have concerns about how much fluid will get mixed in a T-tech machine if the last person's car used a different fluid (quite likely). Do it yourself.
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Kestas
Staff member
I've done a cooler line flush on an 03 Silverado. It's rather straightforward with one exception... dropping the pan is very difficult. There's an exhaust crossover pipe running under the pan. I wasn't in the mood to remove the crossover pipe (not my vehicle), but I was able to undo the pan bolts and slip in a new filter.
Considering this difficulty, I recommend setting aside some extra time to remove the crossover pipe so you can remove the pan for a complete cleaning, replace the filter, and go ahead with the fluid exchange. The first time is most important for cleaning out the break-in debris. Don't bother with the pan for the remaining life of the vehicle, or at least until the next 90K.
Considering this difficulty, I recommend setting aside some extra time to remove the crossover pipe so you can remove the pan for a complete cleaning, replace the filter, and go ahead with the fluid exchange. The first time is most important for cleaning out the break-in debris. Don't bother with the pan for the remaining life of the vehicle, or at least until the next 90K.
The residue in a bladder in the machine is very minimum.I read where the mix of whats IN the trans and IN the machine was maybe 5% and that figure sounds reasonable.Someone not installing your fliud is way out there.Whatever I'm NOT doing that in my driveway to save $35.00. I DON"T remove the pan until 60k to 90k.
Thanks guys for all the responses, One of my concerns is removing or working around the black plastic modulator piece at the rear of the pan.I don't want to break the piece or bend the pan to remove the filter. Ideas??
You don't need to drop the pan, but may want to flush through a couple more quarts to ensure a good exchange.
Which direction is the flow to the cooler?
--disconnect one line and direct both open ends into a bucket...plastic tubing or whatever.
--disable the engine so it won't start.
--crank the engine & note the direction of fluid flow into your bucket.
Which direction is the flow to the cooler?
--disconnect one line and direct both open ends into a bucket...plastic tubing or whatever.
--disable the engine so it won't start.
--crank the engine & note the direction of fluid flow into your bucket.
It might be out there but it happens. I have seen technicians take a customers oil and stash it by there tool box and fill up the car with shop bulk oil.
After removing MANY trans pans with low mileage and finding lots of nasty gray paste ( the stuff from friction materials) I will never just flush a trans without having serviced it prior. We all have our opinions and if you dont feel its needed, cool. I would rather spend the time to know its 100% clean and ready for fresh ATF. But I also run a Bypass filter on my transmission so you could say im an anal SOB!
After removing MANY trans pans with low mileage and finding lots of nasty gray paste ( the stuff from friction materials) I will never just flush a trans without having serviced it prior. We all have our opinions and if you dont feel its needed, cool. I would rather spend the time to know its 100% clean and ready for fresh ATF. But I also run a Bypass filter on my transmission so you could say im an anal SOB!
Originally Posted By: hounddog
Chezz.Most shops I've asked near me will hook up and use your fliud for $35.00.The dealer wanted $65.00. Tire stores(3) wanted $35.00. A heck of a lot easier and no mess.I'm not about to do that in my driveway to save $35.00
A couple of shortfalls in doing this:
1) You have to trust that they will actually use your ATF, especially if its expensive synthetic
2) You need to get them to purge the new fluid tank before they add your fluid
3) It will use 2-3 extra QTs as their machine does not run until new fluid container is empty, there is a QT or two left in there.
4) Most shops will not drain or drop the pan prior to a flush. That is a good idea to insure the least mixing of old and new fluid.
Chezz.Most shops I've asked near me will hook up and use your fliud for $35.00.The dealer wanted $65.00. Tire stores(3) wanted $35.00. A heck of a lot easier and no mess.I'm not about to do that in my driveway to save $35.00
A couple of shortfalls in doing this:
1) You have to trust that they will actually use your ATF, especially if its expensive synthetic
2) You need to get them to purge the new fluid tank before they add your fluid
3) It will use 2-3 extra QTs as their machine does not run until new fluid container is empty, there is a QT or two left in there.
4) Most shops will not drain or drop the pan prior to a flush. That is a good idea to insure the least mixing of old and new fluid.
If you drive a few miles and feel both cooler lines one will be colder than the other, that is the return line and you want to use that line to flush, so you flush out the ATF in the cooler. Also you want to splice a magnefine filter into the return line (pointed the proper direction).
They don't sell it on EBAY, they put it in their own car.
Any GM dealer will only have DexVI now as they have eliminated DexIII completely. You can probably get a filter change, pan clean and flush for less than $200 with synthetic fluid. Maybe less. I usually change trans filters at 30k and clean the pan to get all the break in debris out. After that just fluid exchanges for the life of the vehicle. If the trans has no serviceable filter then the pan never gets dropped.
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