Drilling rear strut towers with a hole saw

Right, but we're not engineers, and this isn't a race car. It's a Lancer with mid-tier coilovers.

If you're really concerned, you can use a hydraulic punch with a dimple die, then the part will most likely be stronger than before.

It doesn't make a difference. Road cars are homologated too and conform to specific standards. All cars before entering production phase and reaching the market pass a specific set of tests.

Having said that I will consider my options and I'll see how I will proceed.
 
It looks like you can remove it, drill it and re-install. That would be the method I would use.
 
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I wouldn't be worried about adding the holes but with the access available it would be quite easy to MIG weld in a stiffener to make it robust.
You mean within the tube?


It looks like you can remove it, drill it and re-install. That would be the method I would use.
Yes, there is an external plate which is possibly removable, but I guess under that is a tube which is closed too.
 
Here's something to consider, as it would be a problem in some other countries.

Would these new holes cause a safety-inspection failure if Greece requires inspections? Some countries even require engineering certifications for such modifications.
 
Here's something to consider, as it would be a problem in some other countries.

Would these new holes cause a safety-inspection failure if Greece requires inspections? Some countries even require engineering certifications for such modifications.

According to the letter of the law, I guess yes, a modification would require an official procedure and paperwork, but I doubt that would practically be a problem.
  1. A typical inspection does not include removing the trunks upholstery. No one is going to see the hole.
  2. Even if that is done, if the hole is professionally drilled and painted I doubt that the person who would inspect the car could know if that's a modification or if the hole was there from the factory. (For example the Evo has already holes in that place.)
I believe not only in Greece but in most countries no one would see the hole during a standard car check.
 
I don't understand why the topic has gone on, without first removing that cover plate to see what is behind it.

If the cover plate only has 3-4 fasteners as it appears to, then couldn't you just remove it to drill the hole on the metal behind it, and later remove it to do the shock readjustments, then put it back on, completely concealing the hole?

Regardless, I agree that an inspection would not normally pull the upholstery, but if someone saw a hole drilled, primed, and painted, it is doubtful that they wouldn't be able to tell that it was a modification. In theory yes you might make a perfect hole, and perfectly match paint, but in practice, no, drilling won't look like a factory stamped hole.
 
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LOL we look for reasons to use our welders!
Dimple dies are cooler than bright blue light
20230702_183619.webp


That said, we're assuming there's room to get the die behind the work with the strut in place. There may not be ‐‐ probably have to drop the strut
 
I don't understand why the topic has gone on, without first removing that cover plate to see what is behind it.

If the cover plate only has 3-4 fasteners as it appears to, then couldn't you just remove it to drill the hole on the metal behind it, and later remove it to do the shock readjustments, then put it back on, completely concealing the hole?

Regardless, I agree that an inspection would not normally pull the upholstery, but if someone saw a hole drilled, primed, and painted, it is doubtful that they wouldn't be able to tell that it was a modification. In theory yes you might make a perfect hole, and perfectly match paint, but in practice, no, drilling won't look like a factory stamped hole.

I took the car to a body shop in order to get an opinion. The plate is also TIG welded at some places (at least 2), so removing the fasteners won't be enough. They advised against drilling.

Furthermore, I measured today the width of the face of the tube till the point it starts to curve and it is about 2.56'', so drilling a hole with a diameter of 1.375'' isn't negligible.

What I remembered is that Tein offers extensions for the adjusters. At the point the tube turns and becomes horizontal at the top, it has a few openings. I will measure the distance to find out if the extensions are long enough.
 
That part on the Evo is considered part of the chassis but different chassis and suspension. I'm not sure if that convenient hole was placed in purpose for ease of access or not. Evo is considerably stiffer than the lancer so losing that small hole would not affect much of anything (rear strut tower bar is useless on the Evo except as racecar). I'd probably drill a small hole there to fit an extended damper adjuster there.
 
That part on the Evo is considered part of the chassis but different chassis and suspension. I'm not sure if that convenient hole was placed in purpose for ease of access or not. Evo is considerably stiffer than the lancer so losing that small hole would not affect much of anything (rear strut tower bar is useless on the Evo except as racecar). I'd probably drill a small hole there to fit an extended damper adjuster there.

The chassis that serves as a basis is common between the standard and Evo versions. Of course the Evo chassis has been reinforced in many different areas. Regarding the Evo most probably the hole is their on purpose.

As for the rest of the Lancers there are already holes in place, but there is some distance from the shocks. If you follow the tube upwards, after the point it turns and becomes horizontal there are holes that would give access by using an extender. I just have to make sure that the extenders' length is adequate.
 
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