Talking about dry starts
Draining oil overnight, any difference?
- Thread starter abimanyu
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GMorg, valid observations.
If I get lazy and don't empty my drain pan after an oil change, I notice the cold THICK oil clings aggressively to the sides and there's always some residual "dust" left in the pan. When I'm diligent about it and empty the pan while it's still hot, the oil pours like water and no residue (even if I check back in a day) remains at the bottom. Apply these results to your oil pan...
Lesson: Don't drain your oil cold.
If I get lazy and don't empty my drain pan after an oil change, I notice the cold THICK oil clings aggressively to the sides and there's always some residual "dust" left in the pan. When I'm diligent about it and empty the pan while it's still hot, the oil pours like water and no residue (even if I check back in a day) remains at the bottom. Apply these results to your oil pan...
Lesson: Don't drain your oil cold.
I always drain hot and then let it drip overnight. I never fill the filter. That's the oil pump's job. Oil pumps were made to pump oil, at least that's the way I interpret the function of an oil pump. There is always a residual film of oil in the bearings, etc. after sitting for a measley couple of days. How thick of a film do you think it actually requires to lubricate on startup? Not much, methinks. And then our faithful oil pump is back to work, pumping oil. It works for me.
Joe
Joe
It does, when I worked in the oil change industry, we would occasionally flush out a customer's crankcase with .5 to a full qt. of fresh oil, to remove any dirty oil as well as any sludge. It made a difference in some cases I think because the blackened oil flowing out would eventually turn gold, that being said, I think your fine with just adhering to recommended OCIs since most of the contaminants are probably removed, and your filter will take care of the rest...quote:
Originally posted by OriginHacker21:
Because my car takes 5.5Quarts I've always had .5 quarts to "flush" before filling with the other stuff. I'd like to believe that it takes out some old oil with it as well...
Yes. Some oil pumps will loose their prime if left to drain for an extended period. Remember, you're removing the filter, so it's not the same conditions as parking and letting it sit for a length of time.
I drain warm and put the plug in when the drips are pretty far apart but that's on the quick change side of this debate.
Some of these posts make me think about my alternatives-
drain cold or hot
prefill the filter or not
drain quick or slow
flush or drain
long or short OIC-----
and I've changed a few of my habits since coming here.
Some of these posts make me think about my alternatives-
drain cold or hot
prefill the filter or not
drain quick or slow
flush or drain
long or short OIC-----
and I've changed a few of my habits since coming here.
does anyone else prime the oil pump with the starter after an oil change? I unplug the EGI/EFI fuse and crank the car till the oil light goes out. Then pop it back in and restart... works good!
Some cars drain very slowly.
I don't think it typically makes a huge difference. Try this, (don't FORGET IN THE MORNING AND DRIVE OFF!!), allow to drain the "normal" amount. Put the plug back in. Wait 24 hrs/overnight - then remove plug and drain into a clean catch container. How much oil? Base the overnight descision on this.
I don't think it typically makes a huge difference. Try this, (don't FORGET IN THE MORNING AND DRIVE OFF!!), allow to drain the "normal" amount. Put the plug back in. Wait 24 hrs/overnight - then remove plug and drain into a clean catch container. How much oil? Base the overnight descision on this.
to give you an idea on my 02 mustang GT. before I would change the oil normaly drain wait and refill, manual says the car holds 6 quarts when refilled it would show full on the dip stick...Now I would jack the car up the opposite side of the drain plugs and let it drain overnight and when I would refill it with 6 quarts it show low on the dip stick...
Same for my vehicle stang5. If I let it drain 2+ hours and add 5 quarts (what it asks) - It is LOW on dipstick. I usually have to add .5 quarts to get it to full.
Yet if I don't drain for more than 15 minutes then 5 quarts is actually too full...
Yet if I don't drain for more than 15 minutes then 5 quarts is actually too full...
I think these posts of letting the oil drain overnight or pouring a quart down are not good procedures. First, letting the oil drain overnight, you can cause the oil pump to lose priming and causing wear and tear of the oil pump. Second, putting a freah clean quart will go straight down to the oil pan to be drained. It won't go through all the nooks and crannies of the engine where the old oil is clinging too. If you really want the old engine oil out, just tear into the engine every 3k miles. Now that's major OCD there
"Lesson: Don't drain your oil cold".
Of course when draining hot, you leave more old oil (with suspended particles) still in the engine as it has not reached the pan yet.
Lesson: Don't drain your oil hot...unless you let it drain a long time...by then some wil have cooled down..even gotten cold. LOL
Of course when draining hot, you leave more old oil (with suspended particles) still in the engine as it has not reached the pan yet.
Lesson: Don't drain your oil hot...unless you let it drain a long time...by then some wil have cooled down..even gotten cold. LOL
I drain my oil *warm*. I actually would like to do it hot, but I'm afraid of being burned (been badly burned twice during my childhood), so I let it cool down a few minutes before I get to work. The oil isn't hot enough so that I'll say "ouch" and withdraw my hand, but it's hotter than the water I take a shower with. Of course, by the time I'm ready to refill, the oil has turned cold.
Not talking about the nooks and crannies...so much "stuff" congregates around the bottom of the pan during the drain...all the "flush" does is push that junk out the drain hole....quote:
Originally posted by Cutehumor:
I think these posts of letting the oil drain overnight or pouring a quart down are not good procedures. First, letting the oil drain overnight, you can cause the oil pump to lose priming and causing wear and tear of the oil pump. Second, putting a freah clean quart will go straight down to the oil pan to be drained. It won't go through all the nooks and crannies of the engine where the old oil is clinging too. If you really want the old engine oil out, just tear into the engine every 3k miles. Now that's major OCD there
Man, we are a crazy bunch.
Hot/Cold Drain: If multi-vis oil is thinner when it is cold, why would anyone want to drain it hot when it is thicker? Seems counter productive.
Flushing: pour oil in the top and it only goes thru a few drain back paths. Not really doing much here but wasting good oil.
J
Hot/Cold Drain: If multi-vis oil is thinner when it is cold, why would anyone want to drain it hot when it is thicker? Seems counter productive.
Flushing: pour oil in the top and it only goes thru a few drain back paths. Not really doing much here but wasting good oil.
J
This place must be a gathering place for obsessive compussive personalities. I finish my oil drain and then jack up the right side of the car which causes another 3-4 oz to run out due to the way the pan is made.
J: You've fallen victim to a common misconception. Multi-vis oils are not thinner when cold and thicker when hot. For example, standard flavor Mobil 1 5w30 is 64.8 cSt thickness at 40 deg C, whereas when the temp rises to 100 deg C, it has thinned down to 11.3 cSt (see the original data for yourself here)
The idea of a multi-grade oil is that is subject to far less thinning with increasing heat than is a single-grade oil. In short, it still makes sense to get your oil well heated and "mixed up" before you drain it, whether it's a mono or multi grade.
I like doing what i call a "rapid oil change" every 15K or so. Changing the oil & filter, driving it for about 100-200 miles, and then changing the oil & filter again.
I've never used any "flush" chemicals, but do this "rapid" method instead. My last can got 225K of HARD miles on it over 11 years and the inside of the engine still looked and ran like new.
I've never used any "flush" chemicals, but do this "rapid" method instead. My last can got 225K of HARD miles on it over 11 years and the inside of the engine still looked and ran like new.
I can only answer for myself obviously....No....but if your gonna do the job do the job 100% ( or as close to it as you can get anyway)...sorta falls into the "I wash my car every week" catagorey....just being dillegent with our baby's...does that bother anybody?
Tender, if you re-read my post, you will see I have removed the engine and oil pan from the observation. I'm referring only to how the oil characteristics change in the oil drain pan (collection pan). So the suspended particles are in that drained oil when it came out hot (in suspension) and when it cooled off (clinging to the sides)
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