Drain plugs and gaskets.

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We discuss oil and filters ad-nauseam. What I have never seen discussed on here is drain plugs and drain plug gaskets.

I will start the discussion.

I prefer OEM drain plugs and gaskets as the seem to just work a lot better.
 
None issue. I've replaced one crush washer in 20 years and that after having a shop do it. From then on I do my own and haven't had a problem.
 
Really.

I have not replaced a drain plug gasket in some time since GM uses that rubber o-ring built into the drain plug gasket.

Now when I had vehicles with a sheet metal oil pan, I replaced the drain plug gasket every time I changed the oil otherwise it would leak.
 
My old 54 Plymouth ones are copper. They bend and split, they get replaced every so often.
 
Then how about transmission and differential drain / fill plugs that often have a tapered pipe thread without gasket? These need their own special sealant depending on metals (brass, aluminum, steel) operating temperature and retained fluid type. For steel into steel (differentials) I use blue loctite, as GL5 gear oils can be pretty aggressive at dissolving many RTV's. For steel into aluminum, like my Jeep NV3500 manual, a teflon-based pipe putty works well. Never teflon tape that shreds into strips that can block oilways.
 
Originally Posted By: Finz
Aluminum gaskets on honda - oil and tranny. Both get replaced with each fluid change.


I'm due to change the oil on my brother's Honda. He has a 2003 Accord. Where is the best place to get a drain plug gasket?

Thanks.
 
Fumoto. Just transferred it to replacement engine in my 99 SL2. Used Toyota gasket for 2001 3.0. Toyota dealership was best place I could find for gaskets for an RX300.
 
Originally Posted By: Torkenstein
Then how about transmission and differential drain / fill plugs that often have a tapered pipe thread without gasket? These need their own special sealant depending on metals (brass, aluminum, steel) operating temperature and retained fluid type. For steel into steel (differentials) I use blue loctite, as GL5 gear oils can be pretty aggressive at dissolving many RTV's. For steel into aluminum, like my Jeep NV3500 manual, a teflon-based pipe putty works well. Never teflon tape that shreds into strips that can block oilways.

Never dealt with one. Always Honda transmissions with a straight drain plug. The GM transmissions dropped the pan. The oddest was the 2004 Subaru with a T-70 Torx head, but the bolt itself was straight. Most filled through the dipstick hole. The only car I've serviced with a transmission fill bolt was my '95 Integra GS-R. I needed a flexible funnel to reach it. I'd just fill it with the estimated amount. When it got close I'd fill slowly until the oil started overflowing out the hole. Once it was sealed, it wasn't going to leak since it was hermetically sealed. I remember reusing some fiber washers for the fill plug, but my Integra used the common M14 aluminum washers I bought for maybe a quarter each at the drain plug.
 
I replace the drain plug washers only when I remember to (which isn't often). Never had a leak so I just fuggedaboutit.
 
I prefer Fumoto drain valves instead of stock OEM drain plugs on all my engines. Every engine I have owned in the last 10 years (2 semi trucks, 1 ag tractor, 1 Jeep, and 2 pickups) have gotten Fumoto drain valves on the first oil change.
 
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