Drag race oils

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Delo 0w-30

1140 P
1300 Z
10.5 @ 100
190 VI
?? HTHS

I'm looking at trying this oil in my SBC with flat tappet and dual springs. Just waiting on the local dealer to give me a callback with the price.
 
I suggest CAM2 racing oils. While many people have not experienced the difference from their products, they are one of the higher quality oils on the market. The biggest task is finding their product, which I did track down a dealer and put their link below. http://www.speedcityperformance.com/cam2_racing_oil1

The few people I know that have used it swear by it. After looking at a handful of other forums I see nothing bad about it, only good. Why go with a conventional 'racing' oil from Wal-Mart to put in your engine? Nothing against those who do, but a thousand dollar motor is not worth a few dollars saved in oil, sorry.
 
Originally Posted By: CONMCK
Looking for opinions on oil to use in drag race application.

1/4 mile drag racing, small block chev, 7000 rpm max, 650 horsepower.

Question is;
Is there alternative oils out there to use instead of the high priced products like Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, Amsoil etc. There are many HDEO (diesel), whether CH/SL, CI/SM or the new CJ-4 for less than 1/2 the price, and of course many other types of gasoline oils. My thinking, why pay $150 dollars for a oil change when I could spend only $60 to $70 and still have the same protection, or very close.

I'm used to using 0-30 or 5-30 vis oil, I would consider 0-40 or 5-40 as the absolute upper viscosity.

Thoughts, experiences????


Try This oil in a straight 30
http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/2-110-td.pdf
I use the 40W A straight oil is more stable in a race end. The additive package is the best.
 
Brad Penn would be my choice. I know a bunch of drag racers that use nothing but brad penn and formerly kendall. The one friend runs 9.50 at 145 2 days a week every week during the race season for 5 years straight with out ever tearing the engine down or having a failure of any kind. He changes oil twice a season. He does not like to change it often because the car becomes inconsistent the first weekend out after an oil change then it settles back into the groove. He bracket races so hitting your dial in is crucial.

I actually just placed an order for 14 quarts of 10W-30 brad penn racing oil and a 6oz bottle of brad penn assembly lube today.
 
We have cars with roller cams. Two have solid rollers and one is a hydraulic roller that is shimmed to darn near solid. In all three cars we use conventional Valvoline 5w-20 or 5w-30 with a half a bottle of Lucas ZDDP.

One of our cam manufacturers suggested that we stick with the conventional over synthetic because they were finding the synthetic wasn't adhering to the roller as well. Our engines go through the lights from 7,400 to 9,400 depending on the car.

We have never had a bearing failure or roller failure with this program and we run a lot of laps.

Kyle Ratcliff

4121 C/SA
412 GT/AA
 
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Brad Penn would be my choice. I know a bunch of drag racers that use nothing but brad penn and formerly kendall. The one friend runs 9.50 at 145 2 days a week every week during the race season for 5 years straight with out ever tearing the engine down or having a failure of any kind. He changes oil twice a season. He does not like to change it often because the car becomes inconsistent the first weekend out after an oil change then it settles back into the groove. He bracket races so hitting your dial in is crucial.

I actually just placed an order for 14 quarts of 10W-30 brad penn racing oil and a 6oz bottle of brad penn assembly lube today.


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I've used alot of Kendall and Brad Penn is awsome stuff as well!
 
We raced two cars in Super Gas between 1997 - 2005...one with a 509 ci Chevrolet and the other with a 468 ci Chevy. Both ran around 13:1 compression and .750 lift solid rollers. We put about 100 passes/yr on each and changed oil about twice a year. Most of the time we'd pull the engines down every other season. We ran Castrol GTX 10w40 and Wix 51061 oil filters. We'd have 40 psi at idle and 120 psi at 6500 rpm.
I think with no longer than these engines are running condensation is more of a problem than what brand oil you run. We constantly had problems with condensation because the engines aren't hot long enough to burn it off. Once a month I was pulling the valve covers off to wipe the condensation/oil off the underside and the heads. Looked like chocolate milk, kinda like we had oil and coolant mixing. I say run whatever off the shelf oil you can find, none of it will make a difference.
 
There are a couple of drag racers on the west coast that have oil sponsors but pour Red Line Motorcycle 20w-60 in their engines. What they're doing is not advertised but they act like a billboard for their sponsors but want the best protection in their engines. One of the engine builders told me that the engines he builds have nothing to do with street engines or the products his sponsor sells. He said that going to Red Line really increased the life of the engine and many critical parts. They have a filter system at their trailer and run the oil through a couple of filters between run. Contamination is a big problem.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=111&pcid=21
 
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