Don't change ATF if its black?

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would not change it! I would wait for the ATF to become tar-like substance, change the ATF then, wait for the transmission to granade and come beck to this thread as a living proof that ATF should not be changed.


Great!!!

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
There is never a reason to not change the ATF unless its your shop and do not want to be liable for something going wrong.



Sure, the shop can refuse to do the work, OR the shop can do the work but provide a written statement that the condition of the fluid and lack of proper maintenance may cause other problems and changing out the fluid may not fix any future problems that may occur.

The mechanic that does my heavy work writes a short summary on every piece of work he does as a CYA against ignorant, litigious people.


Sure thats probably good for reasonable people like yourself. But for someone who did nothing to the transmission for 150K miles, they will complain no matter what and the shop is in a no win situation unless they get the customer to sign a waiver.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
I would change it out several times over the summer, about a month apart. I'm referring to the drain and fill type of change. If no drain plug, I would use a siphon to get it out and change the filter on the last change.

Yes, I have done this to more than one car and it worked out just fine.


Buddy of mine did the same, had a transmission that was slipping horribly. Changed fluid, it got better but then went back to its old ways. After 3 more changes at 5k intervals, it worked great for another 100k miles.

ATs like fresh fluid; with high miles a flush is contraindicated, so a drain and refill or pan drop/filter/refill is in order.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: Kuato


ATs like fresh fluid; .... so a drain and refill or pan drop/filter/refill is in order.



For those who are on the ball with preventive maintenance, many auto transmissions have factory drain plugs and it's any easy way to keep "fresh fluid" keeping your transmission alive and well.

I drain and fill all my auto trans with 3 quarts of Amsoil ATF each spring - before the summer heat arrives.

 

[Errtt]

I've had the RAV transmission flushed 3 times. about to hit 185k very soon, might do it again.

 

[Rocko62580]

Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Rocko, does your RAV use T-IV or WS?

I had this same question about my niece's Ford Fusion that uses T-IV and was told that T-IV turns quite dark in normal use, so that doesn't mean it's necessarily bad. I did the first double drain & fill on her car at 30k and a second one at 63k and the fluid does come out darker than I'm used to with my cars.

All that aside, I would absolutely change it. If the transmission fails soon after a fluid change, then it was on its way out anyway and would have failed regardless. Leaving depleted, oxidized, and/or contaminated fluid is a sure way to hasten its demise.


The 2008 Rav4 takes WS. Thank you for your help. And thanks to everyone one else on this board. I will change it out and see what happens.

 

[RiceCake]

Most mechanics say not to change it just because they don't want people, dispelled by this myth, believing their recommendation to change it destroyed their transmission.

And usually if its seriously black its on its way to failing anyhow.

 

[Ken2]

Some transmissions have clutches where the material causes the fluid to rapidly darken. In that case the fluid is OK for the full recommended mileage--but certainly not forever.

For the original posting, I'd change that fluid.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: Rocko62580
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Rocko, does your RAV use T-IV or WS?

I had this same question about my niece's Ford Fusion that uses T-IV and was told that T-IV turns quite dark in normal use, so that doesn't mean it's necessarily bad. I did the first double drain & fill on her car at 30k and a second one at 63k and the fluid does come out darker than I'm used to with my cars.

All that aside, I would absolutely change it. If the transmission fails soon after a fluid change, then it was on its way out anyway and would have failed regardless. Leaving depleted, oxidized, and/or contaminated fluid is a sure way to hasten its demise.


The 2008 Rav4 takes WS. Thank you for your help. And thanks to everyone one else on this board. I will change it out and see what happens.


I remember reading the same thing about WS when it first came out. As somebody used to Dexron, I was surprised when I changed my Vibe (Toyota trans) WS at 29,000. Even the new fluid is darker red compared to Dexron.

 

[SOHCman]

It will take many many drain/fills to get the fluid cherry red again. You have a bunch if sludge, wear metal, and clutch particles floating around and clinging to surfaces.
Go ahead and do the drain/fills with the proper fluid at first. But untill you do a pan drop and full fluid exchange using the cooler lines and a 5 gallon bucket, you won't have a clean trans. Just too much junk in there.

 

[2000Trooper]

I once had a high mileage car with the factory fluid. I dropped the pan changed the filter, and filled it back up. Then I drained and filled 2-3 times, doing it once per week.Then I changed to a drain and fill schedule of every 12k miles. That 4L30-E lasted until the engine blew.

 

[Whitewolf]

Carbon fiber clutch particles can change the color quite quickly but that does not mean that you should take your eye off it. If you can run to it a simple analysis can predict if you are heading for a problem. PC me if you need help.

WW