Does this sound like a bad tire?

Maybe I need to step in here to add some clarity:

The issue is: How much road force is too much?

1) Different vehicles have different sensitivity. Not only are small vehicles more sensitive than large vehicles, there are some vehicles that are way, way more sensitive than others of the same size. There are certain year/make/models of cars where hardly anything is acceptable. And there are certain year/make/models where practically everything is OK.

2) Some people have sensitive butts! Enough said about that!

3) Rough roads can hide a lot of vibrations. So if you live where the roads are subject to winter freezing and thawing (and that causes the road to heave unevenly), wheel end vibrations have to be quite large to be felt. But if you live where the roads don't freeze, even small vibrations are detectable.

What I am trying to say is that there isn't a single answer to this question. Sure, there are values where it generally doesn't matter about those 3 things listed above. AND there are values that will ALWAYS cause a detectable vibration.

But in between those 2 values is a very wide range. I've done a lot of investigations and I just don't feel comfortable offering a value. What I do is look for the outlier. Generally, there is one, and on occasion, 2.
If the tires don’t end up the culprit..check out the drivetrain as one suggested earlier. Audi puts 8 or mor cv joints and a couple of U-joints in their cars. My 2002 S4 became VERY expensive after 100,000 miles.
Costco is potential culprit . I have personally have had nothing but issues with chains and tire techs and balancers. Even the ones who show off Hunter because the tech needs training and equipment calibrated.

I use a ratty tire place but they get it right always. Good luck

Other items in driveline liked warped rotor or axle etc might be culprit and Costco is useless for that.
Are they stock rims? Are they mounted hub-centric? If the wheel hub ID is larger than the hub OD, and you don't have the correct hub adaptor rings, it is VERY hard to get the wheel centered, and mounted good enough to not vibrate.
Getting back on this after being sick for the last few weeks.

I rotated all the wheels X pattern today to see if I can notice any difference. Have a longer drive tomorrow to get a good idea if the noise moves at all.

I did spot though, all the wheel weights are ~1-3 per wheel, this particular wheel has (6) on it. Trying to think back on all the wheels I've ever had and to think if I have seen this much before? Like I said, all the other wheels have minimal weights on them. Seems like a large amount of balancing, and especially all in one location? Any thoughts or normal?
NOTE: Also this is on the BRAND NEW WHEEL that was the replacement for the one with the bend. So its not an old rim with road miles. That would tell me all that weight is from the tire balancing and not from any sort of out of round wheel.


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Thanks for getting back, and hope you're feeling better. If you ran a wheel on the balance machine without a tire mounted on it, it would likely NOT take any weights, so you're assumptions are correct.
When mounting new tire on any rim, all of the previous wheel weights should be removed. You'd be surprised at how many tire techs skip this step.
Please keep us posted as you try to get this fixed.
Well I did manage to just go for a quick drive and it seems like it moved to the rear right. Need more driving to confirm, but if thats the case and I can confirm it definitely moved, I figure I should just go back to costco who was the dealer and ask them to replace that tire under warranty. I'd much prefer a bad tire to an underlying suspension/drivetrain issue. The fact it started day one on the new tires tells me its a bad tire logically.
Balance weights: The further away from the center they are the more effective they are, so expect more balance weight when they are hidden behind the wheel spokes than ones attached to the flanges.

And balance weights don't affect out-of-round