Does this distributor rotor need to be replaced?

[Pajamarama]

OK, the thread title is a little misleading because I just replaced it anyway. It was cheap and very easy to do - along with the dist cap.

Here are pics of the old rotor. I have never replaced a distributor rotor before so I have no idea if this one is still in good shape or if I changed it just in time. The metal edge (blade?) part is definitely corroded and worn.

What do you think?

 

[spasm3]

looks like it was time, but you can compare the new and old rotor before installing it.

 

[Pajamarama]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
looks like it was time, but you can compare the new and old rotor before installing it.


Yeah, I should have taken a pic of the new and old side by side but I had the new one in before I thought of that.

Here's a pic of the part I used:

Pic

So another question: if this old one was worn out and ready to be changed, will I see any improvement in the way my car runs?

 

[TFB1]

I've seen them a dozen times worse looking and perform just fine... Also seen almost new ones shorted out(burned through to the dist center post)...

 

[HerrStig]

You can dress them with a "points file"(and see no difference in performance at all). I've seen non-Bosch (Bera) rotors burn out somewhere between the center post and end contact as well. Bosch did sell a rotor with a rev limiter contrivance built it, they were NOT cheap.

 

[Kestas]

You can refresh the metal surface, but the problem is that the gap gets bigger. A bigger gap at the rotor leave less power for the spark plug gap.

 

[yonyon]

The biggest problem with a rotor like that is burn through. You don't check for that visually. You wouldn't see burn through unless you disassembled the rotor far enough that it would need to be replaced anyway.

 

[djb]

That rotor looks in good shape to me. No deep pits or insulator cracking.

Is it expensive or cheap to get a replacement? On my older BMW the rotor is $20, from the places that sell a Honda rotor for $2. At $2 it's best to just replace every time you look.

 

[TC]

How many miles on the rotor, and what changeout schedule does the manual call for?

Since this part (unlike filters, lubricants, belts and hoses) presumably wears fairly consistently among various examples of that same ride, whether that car's in Nevada or North Dakota, simply deferring to the manual would be a safe bet.

 

[djb]

Rotors rarely have specified change intervals. Erosion is highly dependent on the other components -- coil, cables and plugs. If most of the energy is going to the plug, the rotor can last a long time.

 

[KB2008X]

You did the right thing changing it out. It doesn't look all that bad, but for the cost, why not change it ? As for that rotor hindering engine performance and there being an increase in performance after changing it, I'd guess not. Then again, maybe it will.

The big thing is that you changed it before it became too worn and led to other ignition components, like the coil, becoming overworked and failing earlier than usual. That's where most people make a mistake - they don't consider the wear and tear on more expensive parts due to a cheap part being worn.

How are the wires and plugs ?

Keith

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
You can refresh the metal surface, but the problem is that the gap gets bigger. A bigger gap at the rotor leave less power for the spark plug gap.


In normal use, the extra gap at the rotor/cap HELPS make a hotter spark at the plug.
This is why anti foul wires and devices that go on the spark plug between the wires have a gap to increase the plug spark.

GM HEI rotors were problematic. They would leak straight through down the middle to the shaft. Most others would wear, but no chronic problems.

 

[morris]

the condition of the tip isnt all to think about. the coil puts high voltage in to the middle of the rotor, the rotor can weakin the middle and let voltage go into the shaft.

 

[morris]

the white markes in the middle on top show the fiber is breaking down, letting the voltage leek to the shaft. allso if the cap has a air vent, plug the vent, with JB-weld, trust me.

 

[user52165]

Originally Posted By: morris
the white marks in the middle on top show the fiber is breaking down, letting the voltage leek to the shaft. also if the cap has a air vent, plug the vent, with JB-weld, trust me.


If that vent is for vapor to be drawn out by vacuum, then I don't trust you.

To the OP - some things should just be replaced regardless. Caps are susceptible to carbon tracking and should be replaced as a matter of course. The loneliest (and very dangerous) hour I ever spent was next to the inside lane of the Santa Monica freeway at 5 PM while probably 100,000 cars wizzed by. Bad cap (looked good) was the culprit. Before cell phones, could not get to a call box.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: Kestas
You can refresh the metal surface, but the problem is that the gap gets bigger. A bigger gap at the rotor leave less power for the spark plug gap.

In normal use, the extra gap at the rotor/cap HELPS make a hotter spark at the plug.
This is why anti foul wires and devices that go on the spark plug between the wires have a gap to increase the plug spark.

GM HEI rotors were problematic. They would leak straight through down the middle to the shaft. Most others would wear, but no chronic problems.

You may be correct. But if true, then why don't manufacturers design a larger gap at the distributor in the first place?

 

[antiqueshell]

OP is this the rotor from the 97 Accord?

If so you are very lucky that you were able to get the rotor off the distributor post, usually there is a philips set screw that becomes rusted in place and you have to drill it out.

Did you have that screw in tact in the rotor? How easy was it to get off?

 

[zrxkawboy]

Originally Posted By: user52165
Originally Posted By: morris
the white marks in the middle on top show the fiber is breaking down, letting the voltage leek to the shaft. also if the cap has a air vent, plug the vent, with JB-weld, trust me.


Originally Posted By: morris

If that vent is for vapor to be drawn out by vacuum, then I don't trust you.



It's a vent for ozone (which builds up from spark), but I've never had a need to plug one.

 

[Pajamarama]

Sorry I haven't been back to answer questions. BTW car runs fine now. I'm probably imagining it runs more smoothly. Haven't filled up since changing it so I have no idea about fuel efficiency (wasn't expecting anything really).

Quote:
Is it expensive or cheap to get a replacement?


I ordered both the rotor and cap from RockAuto. The rotor was $7.29. Cap was $11.30. Both are Airtex/Wells.

Quote:
How many miles on the rotor, and what changeout schedule does the manual call for?


No idea how many miles on the rotor. I have only had this Accord for 5000 miles and don't have any of the past maintenance records. I am curious whether this is the original rotor the car came with.

The only info I can get on scheduled replacement for the rotor is to inspect it every 24,000 miles.

Quote:
How are the wires and plugs ?


Changing them out was one of the first things I did about 4000 miles ago so they should be good.

Quote:
OP is this the rotor from the 97 Accord?


Yes.

Quote:
Did you have that screw in tact in the rotor? How easy was it to get off?


Yes it was intact and wasn't too hard to get off. It was a little rusted/corroded but came off with a Philips head screwdriver.

 

[bruno]

If you want it to look better just rub it on a tire . Easy clean up .