What does the owner's manual specify for the oil? I wonder if previous owner(s) revved the engine to high rpms when the oil was not hot and the connecting rod bearings got starved. I would not assume that a thicker oil is needed than you previously used based on what I've read in this thread. I think more info. is needed.
Dodge Viper- Which Motor Oil
- Thread starter BlackMoon
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The Mobil 1 Racing oil for cars (not bikes) is $101 plus shipping for 6 quarts. LOL They're pretty proud of it. I may use 2 quarts as additive as they recommended in the thread you directed me to.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Originally Posted By: JAG
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
The Mobil 1 Racing oil for cars (not bikes) is $101 plus shipping for 6 quarts. LOL They're pretty proud of it. I may use 2 quarts as additive as they recommended in the thread you directed me to.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Yes, it is expensive. RL is cheaper and a very high quality synthetic too. VR-1 syn is cheaper yet, and their conventional is less expensive still. A gallon of Rotella Triple T 15w-40 costs $13. Heck, that might even work. You have a very expensive motor with very expensive mods. I suppose you'll have to debate the cost/risk there.
Gallons of Red Line cost about $40. Is that within reason?
The Mobil 1 Racing oil for cars (not bikes) is $101 plus shipping for 6 quarts. LOL They're pretty proud of it. I may use 2 quarts as additive as they recommended in the thread you directed me to.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Yes, it is expensive. RL is cheaper and a very high quality synthetic too. VR-1 syn is cheaper yet, and their conventional is less expensive still. A gallon of Rotella Triple T 15w-40 costs $13. Heck, that might even work. You have a very expensive motor with very expensive mods. I suppose you'll have to debate the cost/risk there.
Gallons of Red Line cost about $40. Is that within reason?
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: JAG
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
It is helpful to know the viscosity specified for the stock car when deciding on the viscosity for the modified engine. For example, if 20W-50 was specified for the engine, one would probably choose a different viscosity for the modified version than if 5W-30 were specified for the stock engine. The originally specified viscosity is the baseline.
Originally Posted By: JAG
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
It is helpful to know the viscosity specified for the stock car when deciding on the viscosity for the modified engine. For example, if 20W-50 was specified for the engine, one would probably choose a different viscosity for the modified version than if 5W-30 were specified for the stock engine. The originally specified viscosity is the baseline.
Sorry 10w-30 Mobil 1 is factory spec.
Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: JAG
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
It is helpful to know the viscosity specified for the stock car when deciding on the viscosity for the modified engine. For example, if 20W-50 was specified for the engine, one would probably choose a different viscosity for the modified version than if 5W-30 were specified for the stock engine. The originally specified viscosity is the baseline.
Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: JAG
What does the owner's manual specify for the oil?
Doesn't matter what the manual said, he supercharged his viper, the manual was for the stock.
Since the car has been changed how about doing 50/50 with Mobil 1 Racing (car) oil and Redline, then post back here with the UOA from Blackstone.
Welcome...and everyone here loves photos; Flickr, Picasa, or Imgur are great for postin em
It is helpful to know the viscosity specified for the stock car when deciding on the viscosity for the modified engine. For example, if 20W-50 was specified for the engine, one would probably choose a different viscosity for the modified version than if 5W-30 were specified for the stock engine. The originally specified viscosity is the baseline.
Research Liqui Moly line.........I would add their additive ceratec! Now the anti-additve people will chime in, but research it, it reduces friction, sounds perfect for this application.
Also Liqui Moly 10-60 Race tec
Since Mobil 1 10W-30 was specified and that is on the low end of SAE xW-30 viscosity grade, I would probably use an oil with a HTHS viscosity around 3.5 to 4 cP. Mobil 1 0W-40 or 10W-40 High Mileage fit in that range. I think a non-synthetic 20W-50 oil like VR-1 is excessively thick, especially before the oil is hot. M1 racing oil has a boat-load of ZDDP (too much) and that's not needed here. Just as important or maybe more is letting the oil get hot before flogging the engine.
Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage sounds like a good test subject.
I would say a thick xw40 ester based synthetic like redline or motul would help a lot with elevated oil temps. Redline oils contain a boat load of moly which should help with wear.
CERATEC is a good additive by liqui moly.look it up.
CERATEC is a good additive by liqui moly.look it up.
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I'm not concerned about price since this is a once a year cost at most. I'd spend $500 a year if it kept me from ever spending 8-20k on a rebuild. LOL
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
The Mobil 1 Racing oil for cars (not bikes) is $101 plus shipping for 6 quarts. LOL They're pretty proud of it. I may use 2 quarts as additive as they recommended in the thread you directed me to.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Yes, it is expensive. RL is cheaper and a very high quality synthetic too. VR-1 syn is cheaper yet, and their conventional is less expensive still. A gallon of Rotella Triple T 15w-40 costs $13. Heck, that might even work. You have a very expensive motor with very expensive mods. I suppose you'll have to debate the cost/risk there.
Gallons of Red Line cost about $40. Is that within reason?
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
The Mobil 1 Racing oil for cars (not bikes) is $101 plus shipping for 6 quarts. LOL They're pretty proud of it. I may use 2 quarts as additive as they recommended in the thread you directed me to.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
There's a synthetic version of VR-1 that's pretty stout. I have six quarts in the garage waiting to go in the bike.
You have a pretty heavily modified and high performance motor there. If you like the brand and can afford it, there is a racing version of Mobil 1. The VOA shows it to be a pretty darn strong formula. That's what I would go with in that motor. Amazon has it, but it's pricy.
Red Line is another favorite of mine. They're a pretty good small company and they have an engineer on staff (Dave) who answers questions thoroughly.
Yes, it is expensive. RL is cheaper and a very high quality synthetic too. VR-1 syn is cheaper yet, and their conventional is less expensive still. A gallon of Rotella Triple T 15w-40 costs $13. Heck, that might even work. You have a very expensive motor with very expensive mods. I suppose you'll have to debate the cost/risk there.
Gallons of Red Line cost about $40. Is that within reason?
To answer the question about what you should be looking for (or at least what I would be looking for):
A premium synthetic with a stout addative pack. The M1 racing that was previously discussed is a fine choice. A good dose of moly is helpful. I'd much rather use an oil that has it already than add it. If you do run the M1 Racing in 0w-30, please consider getting a UOA. I'd be very interested to see how it performs.
Red Line 10w-40 would be my choice if you want to go that route; a grade thicker than stock since you've modified things. Amazon has gallons. Motul 300v 10w-40 is another option.
A premium synthetic with a stout addative pack. The M1 racing that was previously discussed is a fine choice. A good dose of moly is helpful. I'd much rather use an oil that has it already than add it. If you do run the M1 Racing in 0w-30, please consider getting a UOA. I'd be very interested to see how it performs.
Red Line 10w-40 would be my choice if you want to go that route; a grade thicker than stock since you've modified things. Amazon has gallons. Motul 300v 10w-40 is another option.
come on this is a 8.2 liter engine making "just" 600+ HP
its basically a ancient Mopar smallblock with 2 cylinders more.
It´ll run fine on HDEO just like most hipo v8´s do.
Since its supercharged i suspect that the hdeo´s higher hths values
will come in handy.
I doubt that this engine gets high oiltemps unless its driven
500 laps at nurberg ring...
its basically a ancient Mopar smallblock with 2 cylinders more.
It´ll run fine on HDEO just like most hipo v8´s do.
Since its supercharged i suspect that the hdeo´s higher hths values
will come in handy.
I doubt that this engine gets high oiltemps unless its driven
500 laps at nurberg ring...
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
That's alot of wear for 16k miles isn't it?????
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
Look at this! An old dog can learn new tricks.
To me it looks like they are not even broke in yet. Looks like it is still riding on the high spots from when the bearing was manufactured. Although I would expect it to look more even for the price of the car. Also it does look like. Couple of those are rough.
It would be hard to say just how worn it is with out taking measurements.
That's alot of wear for 16k miles isn't it?????
Originally Posted By: BlackMoon
Look at this! An old dog can learn new tricks.
To me it looks like they are not even broke in yet. Looks like it is still riding on the high spots from when the bearing was manufactured. Although I would expect it to look more even for the price of the car. Also it does look like. Couple of those are rough.
It would be hard to say just how worn it is with out taking measurements.
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