Dodge Pentastar Breakin procedure

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: webfors
So the question is... dump the FF early or run out the OLM? I have no idea how long the OCI will be. First car with an OLM.


FWIW, I dumped the oil in my 392 early. Either way I'm sure it will be fine, but I've always been a "change early" proponent.

The OLM on my 392 went off at around 5700 miles on my last interval, and that included a lot of highway miles. I don't think its as aggressive about extending drain intervals as the GM OLMs are.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: webfors
I thought it was interesting. We've often heard of BITOG members giving new engines the lead foot. Now dodge appears to agree.


Kind of embarrassing doing this in a minivan, but I did several foot to the floor runs holding it in 3rd or 4th in slap-shift mode on my 2013 Grand Caravan 3.6L, when it had 100 or so miles on it. I didn't rev it extremely high, nor did I jar the transmission.

It's pretty funny the growl the Pentastar makes and the power it's got.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: webfors
So the question is... dump the FF early or run out the OLM? I have no idea how long the OCI will be. First car with an OLM.


FWIW, I dumped the oil in my 392 early. Either way I'm sure it will be fine, but I've always been a "change early" proponent.

The OLM on my 392 went off at around 5700 miles on my last interval, and that included a lot of highway miles. I don't think its as aggressive about extending drain intervals as the GM OLMs are.



Interesting.
I had to set the mileage minder myself on my charger. I can set it to whatever mileage I choose which I find to he great. I'm not stuck following some maintenance minder that doesn't consider the oil I'm using.
Its got a setting for everything from transmission to tire rotations.

 

[84zmyfavorite]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: webfors
So the question is... dump the FF early or run out the OLM? I have no idea how long the OCI will be. First car with an OLM.


FWIW, I dumped the oil in my 392 early. Either way I'm sure it will be fine, but I've always been a "change early" proponent.

The OLM on my 392 went off at around 5700 miles on my last interval, and that included a lot of highway miles. I don't think its as aggressive about extending drain intervals as the GM OLMs are.

I am in favor of "early oil changes" for engines being broke, no Wore-In myself. I have a 2000 Jeep 4.0 that Im stuffing a 258 crank, rods, new Sealed Power standard 4.0 pistons, possibly Hasting GapLess rings, or normal Hastings rings, Melling HIGH volume pump, etc,etc that will have its Wear-In oil changed after 1st 30min, 30 miles, 300 miles, 1000 miles, and then, Depending on which oil I "Intend"(Yah, Right) to stay with, probably 3,000 to 5,000 mile OCIs(Whever the Itch gets tooo Bad). Blocks Honed painted and Fresh cam bearings pushed in, Crank is ground 10 under and Polished, Rods should be shot peened, 1992 head has been painted Hemi Orange changing to Chev Orange-Red today been ported and Smoothed for 30 hours needs valves lapped still, Still need to get EngineTech -.010 rod & main bearings, Melling pump, timing chain & gears, and front & main seals. And return Fel-Pro .051 head gasket for a .043 Fel-Pro or Victor.

 

[steve20]

I've always selected hilly terrain for break-ins---with downshifting one gear going downhill, with extremely short throttle blips while going downhill. But--I break em in easy and have no oil consumption problems either

 

[gman2304]

In May of 08 I bought a Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom motorcycle. I was at the dealership when they uncrated and finished assembling it. The shop foreman,a young guy was an accomplished motorcycle racer. When he got ready to take it for it's first test ride I told him to "ride it like you stole it". He smiled real big and put on his racing leathers and gloves and helmet and left the dealership like he was coming out of the pits at Daytona! He beat that bike like a rented mule! I could hear that V-twin screaming even after he was out of sight! Five years later it has been one of the most dependable vehicles I have ever owned, uses no oil between changes, no leaks or drips and still purrs like a kitten, or roars like a lion depending on what you want it to do. YMMV but I've always meticulously maintained my vehicles but drove them hard from the get go.

 

[webfors]

I changed the oil out for VWB 5w20 at 2500 KM (~1600 miles). There was a significant amount of metal bits in the oil filter and looking at FF pentastar UOA's I'm glad I did.

Everything went really well, just one complaint. You need to unhinge the air box, or remove the air duct, to be able to successfully access the cartridge filter. Considering the other layouts of this engine there was no reason to have that obstacle. The good news is that with a 6.5L sump and the wording in the OM, this vehicle should go 10 - 16k KM between oil changes.

For those that asked previously, possibly in a different thread, about the FF oil filter. It is identical to the Purolator Classic I replaced it with. I have no doubt that Purolator was/is a supplier for Mopar considering how identical the filters were.

 

[Thermo1223]

Why would a FF UOA have any bearing(lol) on the engine's internal condition? It is expected to be high because it is new and breaking in.

I all for people doing it as they please but this ridiculousness of thinking you are actually doing a valuable service to the engine with absolutely no proof is just that.

Please don't cite tradition either as that is the worst reason to do anything. The fact that you claim to see something in the filter just means it was doing it's job. One UOA proves nothing just sets a point to be used to measure by in the future.

Of all the myths we try and squash this one is still winning the masses over.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Why would a FF UOA have any bearing(lol) on the engine's internal condition?


No relevance to the condition of the engine *only* because it's the FF. If I had done a UOA most would have condemned the results under any other circumstance. Just because it's the FF doesn't mean we should be satisfied and ignore the results. The wear metals aren't harmless magical fairy particles just because it's the FF. This is BITOG after all

 

[Thermo1223]

Well they can be if you believe it so..."clicks heels twice"

I mean if it gets to the point that we condemn FF UOA's I am riding the bike from now on.

 

[webfors]

At least I'm leaving this fill in until the OLM comes on. I've seen some BITOG'ers dump the oil 3-4 times in under 10k miles

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Why would a FF UOA have any bearing(lol) on the engine's internal condition?


No relevance to the condition of the engine *only* because it's the FF. If I had done a UOA most would have condemned the results under any other circumstance. Just because it's the FF doesn't mean we should be satisfied and ignore the results. The wear metals aren't harmless magical fairy particles just because it's the FF. This is BITOG after all

Be careful what you say..................LOL But you're right if it was any UOA after the break in the replies might be something on the order of the engine would be trash, it's grinding itself up, headed for catistratic failure, etc. Then you'd be ripping the engine apart looking for the source, or told to sell it. LOL

As far as harmless particles, IMO they're anything but harmless, and the FACT that they show up in the UOA means the filter isn't filtering them out. Now does it have an impact on engine life????????? Maybe, maybe not. All I'll say it's always a hot topic, with people for and against the idea of an early change.

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: webfors
At least I'm leaving this fill in until the OLM comes on. I've seen some BITOG'ers dump the oil 3-4 times in under 10k miles

Funny I wonder if they programmed the standard 8k into yours or is it actually a real OLM. I think my in-laws van is the former.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: webfors
At least I'm leaving this fill in until the OLM comes on. I've seen some BITOG'ers dump the oil 3-4 times in under 10k miles

Funny I wonder if they programmed the standard 8k into yours or is it actually a real OLM. I think my in-laws van is the former.


The manual states it can vary depending on several factors, so I assume that language indicates an OLM of sorts. The manual also states not to let it go further than 1 year and 10k miles, which I would think the OLM would remind you of. Probably just a cautionary note in case people start ignoring or resetting the light.

 

[Thermo1223]

I'll find out this time, doing the oil change myself. His daily highway travel through winter should at least get him past 5,000 miles on the Napa Synthetic.