dodge caravan tranny fluid changes

CBR.worm · Jan 23, 2006

I guess I got lucky. I put almost 300K miles on one of the early ultradrives ('89 GVoyager). Changed the fluid with ATF+3 every 30K That was my favorite auto transmission ever. It shifted perfect every time until I got rid of it. I towed motorcycle trailers all over the US with it when I was racing. Usually at 80mph. I would go as fast as I could go before it unlocked the TC. Usually 80-82 with two bikes and a full load of gear and tires. That was the first (and last) auto transmission that I drove where at part throttle (3,500 rpm) it shifted quickly and so smoothly that you couldn't feel it at all in the van. Just smooth seemless power (all 150hp of it).

I did have many other problems with the van - just never the transmission - or the seats or the speedometer. Actually the passenger window never stopped working either.

21Rouge · Jan 23, 2006

quote:

I did have many other problems with the van - just never the transmission - or the seats or the speedometer. Actually the passenger window never stopped working either.

Gary Allan · Jan 23, 2006

quote:

Someone tell me how to "disconnect a line procedure" on this particular model. There seems to be an small auxillary cooler/line behind and below the engine. Can I just disconnect this line?

Compress and move clamp "upline". Remove hose. In choosing which hose to remove, it should be the one between the rad cooler and the trans ..not the auxillary cooler and the trans. You can also use the intermediate hose between the rad cooler and the auxillary cooler, but it may be harder to get to.

(trans) line (rad tank cooler)-disconnect here at tank
(rad tank cooler) line (auxillary cooler) remove from auxillary cooler end.

trynew · Jan 23, 2006

quote:

Gary, being an automotive engineer myself, I sometimes get defensive and like to point out that it's not always the engineer's fault, but the fault of managers and bean counters that veto robust designs because they cost too much.

How many times have we read on this form (or any automotive forum) posts from those who insist that we are insane for doing or using anything different (or better) than what the manufacturer recommends because they know so much more about it than us?

If you have never changed the fluid on your Caravan, it might be a struggle to get the pan loose, so using the hoses can be a lot less work and mess. But you won't know if the magnet inside the pan has a lot of metalic dust that needs to be cleaned. The filter inside the pan on any automatic transmission is almost worthless, so you should also consider adding a Magnefine filter to that cooling line.

doitmyself · Jan 23, 2006

Sorry, Kestas, I'm not letting you off the hook - but, it takes guts for someone to admit they're an engineer!

Anyway, since this thread started out about changing Caravan transmission fluid, can anyone walk me through the procedure about exchanging the fluid??

I know how to drop the pan, change the filter, etc..

Please elaborate on fluid exchange on a 2005 with 4 cyl. engine, please. The dipstick is near the transmission front, but the pan slopes a lot (down) towards the rear. Thus, a dipstick drain might leave a lot in the pan, unless I raise the rear vehicle to level the pan.

Someone tell me how to "disconnect a line procedure" on this particular model. There seems to be an small auxillary cooler/line behind and below the engine. Can I just disconnect this line?

Is this disconnect method more efficient (less fluid) than the dipstick pump out?

Thanks for any help.

Gary Allan · Jan 23, 2006

quote:

Gary, being an automotive engineer myself, I sometimes get defensive and like to point out that it's not always the engineer's fault, but the fault of managers and bean counters that veto robust designs because they cost too much.

All is forgiven for all except the Ultradrive trans, the Ford 2.9 head cracker, and the A4LD (and some other auto trans from Ford). Even bean counters must learn from their mistakes.

btw- do these pencil neck types ever get fired for their failures ..or do they get promoted for:

A. "Pulling it off" (getting the thing to market at the target cost)?
B. To get them into a position where they cannot do any more damage.

doitmyself · Jan 23, 2006

Gary,

You forgot the GM head gasket debacle, Toyota sludge mobiles, and the Honda Oddity transmission(Allpar quote) !

Back to the subject at hand - Caravan transmission fluid changes (trying to squeeze some more educational value out of this thread).

I have done a search here and at other forums. When doing the fluid purge via return hose, some recommend the transmission in park, others in neutral, and some in drive (supposedly to get fluid to move out of the torque converter). Which is it. Why?

And..... do you purge until empty (air bubbles/refill), do 2-3 quarts at a time/refill, or some like to feed new fluid as it's pumping?

Thanks all.

Kestas · Jan 23, 2006

quote:

btw- do these pencil neck types ever get fired for their failures ..or do they get promoted for:

A. "Pulling it off" (getting the thing to market at the target cost)?
B. To get them into a position where they cannot do any more damage.

You're right on the money. I've seen people cut cost (and quality) from a product, cut needed personnel to do the ever-present workload.... then they get heaps of praise for a job well done.... then a promotion for doing such a wonderful job, which puts them out of the picture when the mess they initiated matures into real problems and panic in the company. The shameful and ironic part is they come out smelling like roses.

Gary Allan · Jan 24, 2006

quote:

I have done a search here and at other forums. When doing the fluid purge via return hose, some recommend the transmission in park, others in neutral, and some in drive (supposedly to get fluid to move out of the torque converter). Which is it. Why?

In some transmissions, the cooler circuit is inoperative in PARK ..but all (I think) are flowing in Neutral. Some tell you to check your fluid in PARK ..some Neutral. I imagine that this is to either have the cooler circuit part of the dynamic fluid level ..or not

quote:

And..... do you purge until empty (air bubbles/refill), do 2-3 quarts at a time/refill, or some like to feed new fluid as it's pumping?

I just do it until the flow drops off ..it's very apparent. No need for prolonged cavitation of the pump to get those last few drops ..just waste a few more of the new stuff

I just unhook the line ..start the engine ..watch for flow to drop ..turn off engine ..add two quarts (the amount really doesn't matter- two works well)...repeat until I'm confident that new fluid is being seen in the collection basin. Hook up line ..check level ..top off ..viola~! Fine'

Kestas: I knew that it had to be some warped oddity in how things work these days. Perhaps price is the biggest factor for a population that is geared to buying new every 3-5 years and a manufacturing sector that is in high gear for max production. You have to keep the pipline full of moving objects. You can't throttle the outlet ..so you have to adjust the physics somewhere else. If costs make the flow see less friction ...then so be it ...as long as the machinery stays on time

dodge caravan tranny fluid changes

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