Do you torque your oil filter?

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In the manual for one of my cars(Elantra) it says torque spec for the oil filter. So I'm thinking torqueing my oil filter from now on. I don't see why not. Oil filter is an essential part of the car and if you do it wrong there is some consequenses that coul arise as a result. Most people doing it just by hand is fine, but it's never going to be perfect. Last time I thought I did it right and later couldn't get the filter off so I had to buy a oil filter socket. So any of you using a torque wrench on your oil filter?

Another problem I ran into, is that socket I bought will not fit all the filters, because of the size difference between manufacturers. Filter socket will fit Purolator PP but not Napa Gold and i really don't wanna spend more for another socket.
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But i guess there is no any workaround with this problem.
 
Another thing. Where can I buy a torque wrench of the smaller size? Because most of them is pretty big and won't fit there easily. The one I have now is very long and bulky. Heavy duty staff, i don't even know why I bought wrench that big:) Is there are any smaller torque wrenches out there, about size of your regular tool kit ratchet so it will fit better and be more comfortable to work with in those thight spaces under car ? Also do torque wrenches ever come with flexible head? i'm interested in wether electronic or click type wrench. Don't forget to name brand or snore name where you got yours. Thanks.
 
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Another thing. Where can I buy a torque wrench of the smaller size? Because most of them is pretty big and won't fit there easily. The one I have now is very long and bulky. Heavy duty staff, i don't even know why I bought wrench that big:) Is there are any smaller torque wrenches out there, about size of your regular tool kit ratchet so it will fit better and be more comfortable to work with in those thight spaces under car ? Also do torque wrenches ever come with flexible head? i'm interested in wether electronic or click type wrench. Don't forget to name brand or store name where you got yours. Thanks.


 
I thought that oil filters only need to be hand tightened. What are the torque specs? It can't be much more than 10 lb-ft.
 
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I thought that oil filters only need to be hand tightened. What are the torque specs? It can't be much more than 10 lb-ft.




Manual specifically stresses - Do not overtighten.

and then in bold text: Oil filter tightening torque: 1.2 - 1.6 kgf.m

I think it makes sense because a lot of people probably rutinely overtighten their filter you know just in case. I know I do. And I guss it's somehow bad for the car. Otherwise why would they stress such unimportant aspect of maintenance? They also have drain plug tightening torque listed there.
 
No, I never torque my oil filter. In my car's manual it gives you a recommendation as to how far to turn it, but I just tighten it by hand until it doesn't move anymore, and call it a day. Never had any leaks.
 
None of my manuals say I have to torque the oil filter so I go by whatever's printed on the filter or the box -- if it says 1 turn after gasket contact, that's what I do. The only "issue" I've had is that it seems like Purolators (name-brand, Quaker State or AAP versions) seem to tighten up quicker on my Dakota, so if I'm supposed to do 1 turn, I usually can't get much past 3/4, even with a filter wrench, so I stop at that point.

Never had a problem with leaks or removing a filter later.
 
3/4 turn compresses the gasket to an exact, engineered amount, which is what properly seals the oil filter. How can using torque be better?
 
Its an Elantra, hand tighten until it doesn't leak. The 20mm thread is nothing special.
Just about ANY normal canister oil filter can be hand tightened, or double-hand tightened without problems.

Torque wrenches, IMO, are mandatory for those plastic capped cartridge filter.

I never back off filters. There are just too many engine compartments that don't have room for ANY size torque wrench.
 
Torque an oil filter? Nope, that never occurred to me before. Years ago, I used to just get 'em almost as tight as I could by hand- never had one leak or come loose.

BUT: The past dozen years or so, I changed. Usually, somewhere on the filter or box is printed something like:"Tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket makes contact"(or 1/2 to 3/4 turn, etc). So these days, if it says tighten 3/4 to 1 turn, I'll make sure to tighten it a full 1 turn after gasket contact, usually need the filter wrench for that last 1/4 or 1/8 turn.

I never had any luck with the socket-type oil filter "cap wrenches" I bought, still have a couple around somewhere. I've used my old reliable swivel-handled steel-strap wrenches for all oil filters for years now. The one for "large"/"standard diameter" filters is a Lisle, & is probably over 20 years old. The wrench for the smaller, coffee-cup size filters is a no-name that has served well for a long time, no idea even where it came from. And there have been a couple of rare exceptions when I helped a friend remove a stuck filter, & wound up using 16" Channel-Locks!
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I have found the correct torque is as tight as I can get it by hand leaning down into an awkward position. Never had a leak and never had a problem getting them off. The oil drain plug should be torqued semi-firm with a short handled wrench.

Don
 
Maybe I'm just "extra-Manly", but, I've NEVER used any sort of wrench to put on an oil filter, and I can turn any of them I've used one turn after the gasket contacts the mounting plate surface. I only turn them about 3/4 turn at that point, though, as it's historically always been tight enough. I also NEVER use a wrench to get it off, just my hand and a rag if it's hot (at least, never after I get the original one off, those Original buggers tend to be on very tight).
 
Well then I guess I will go by the majority and get by without torqueing it. No big deal. Thanks to all for replyies.
 
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Maybe I'm just "extra-Manly", but, I've NEVER used any sort of wrench to put on an oil filter, and I can turn any of them I've used one turn after the gasket contacts the mounting plate surface. I only turn them about 3/4 turn at that point, though, as it's historically always been tight enough. I also NEVER use a wrench to get it off, just my hand and a rag if it's hot (at least, never after I get the original one off, those Original buggers tend to be on very tight).




There's nothing wrong with using a wrench to go another 1/4 turn after hand-tightening. I re-use my filters for a 2nd OCI and have never damaged a gasket thru disassembly, drain and reassembly.

However, I have witnessed small leaks only hand-tightening. So before you decide to only hand-tighten, better find out how strong those arms of yours are first.... otherwise you may find small brown dots on your driveway afterwards.
 
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I have found the correct torque is as tight as I can get it by hand leaning down into an awkward position. Never had a leak and never had a problem getting them off. The oil drain plug should be torqued semi-firm with a short handled wrench.

Don




Exactly.
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No special tools needed; just a calibrated arm.
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I always considered myself "extra manly" (most of us do
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) ..but I'll be darned if I can get the full 3/4- one full turn after gasket contact on most of my filters. I mean ..maybe ..but the extra effort required tends to make me look toward to the removal process, which is usually more demanding.

I've never had an issue with leakage.

I think that this method was applied by the filter manufacturers to eliminate the average consumer's interpretation of "hand tight". If they stipulated "as tight as possible by hand" a decade or two ago, this assured process may never have evolved.
 
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