or just take it to the shop ? my fluid has never been changed (5 year old truck) and im not real keen on trying to talk my wife through the bleeding process (slowly pump the brake now hunny)... what would you do ? worth the hassle ? 06 silverado 5.3ltr front disc rear drum.. and im also considering a rear brake job, just did the front rotors and pads, figure may as well finish with the back.. but if i take the truck to the shop for a full brake fluid service, i may as well just have them do the rear brakes..
DO it yourself full bleed ?
- Thread starter OtisBlkR1
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Most shops don't change the fluid as part of a friction replacement...so it's something you'll have to ask for...and I wonder what they would charge.
But I definitely think changing the fluid is worth it. It's a requirement on every Euro car I've ever owned, and their brakes have been more durable than the US cars on which I didn't change the fluid...an ABS module is expensive, calipers less so, and keeping moisture free fluid in the system prolongs their lives. More importantly, moisture lowers the boiling point of brake fluid, meaning the brakes could fail easier in hard driving, when they get good and hot...
My Euro cars all have an ATE master cylinder with a screw on cap, so the Motive Power bleeder works great...no need to have my wife pump the pedal. Forgive my ignorance, but what kind of MC does this have? Think the Motive Power bleed might work?
But I definitely think changing the fluid is worth it. It's a requirement on every Euro car I've ever owned, and their brakes have been more durable than the US cars on which I didn't change the fluid...an ABS module is expensive, calipers less so, and keeping moisture free fluid in the system prolongs their lives. More importantly, moisture lowers the boiling point of brake fluid, meaning the brakes could fail easier in hard driving, when they get good and hot...
My Euro cars all have an ATE master cylinder with a screw on cap, so the Motive Power bleeder works great...no need to have my wife pump the pedal. Forgive my ignorance, but what kind of MC does this have? Think the Motive Power bleed might work?
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If you're in So Cal, I can do the brake flush for you in 20 minutes with a fluid extractor, the cost is 1 quart brake fluid.
Since you're a little far, if you like to let the shop do the rear brake then let them do the flush at the same time. You should do brake flush every 2-3 years, 5 years is a bit long.
Since you're a little far, if you like to let the shop do the rear brake then let them do the flush at the same time. You should do brake flush every 2-3 years, 5 years is a bit long.
if you're gonna keep the truck, it's a really good idea to flush the fluid. how dark is it? can you talk a neighbor into helping?
You can bleed just with gravity. It may take a while with the rear brakes, but it's not like you have to do anything except watch the level in the master.
I've had my wife help me when I change out the fluid. There isn't much to pump the pedal 3 times and then hold it, and tell me "hold". I open the bleeder, she tells me "down" and the pedal is on the floor. I close the bleeder and tell her OK. She rests her leg and I move to the next wheel.
I'd STRONGLY advise you to have the shop change it for you if your wife can't help you. Really, you shouldn't go more than two years because the fluid picks up water. If your brakes get really hot, the water will boil off and your brakes will fade when you need them the most.
There are one-person brake bleeders also.
I'd STRONGLY advise you to have the shop change it for you if your wife can't help you. Really, you shouldn't go more than two years because the fluid picks up water. If your brakes get really hot, the water will boil off and your brakes will fade when you need them the most.
There are one-person brake bleeders also.
Originally Posted By: Skid
You can bleed just with gravity. It may take a while with the rear brakes, but it's not like you have to do anything except watch the level in the master.
this is true. im going to chew on this, i dont mind doing disc brake work.. I HATE DOING DRUMS, this being the case i may just ask the shop what they would charge me to do the fluid exchande while there at it.
You can bleed just with gravity. It may take a while with the rear brakes, but it's not like you have to do anything except watch the level in the master.
this is true. im going to chew on this, i dont mind doing disc brake work.. I HATE DOING DRUMS, this being the case i may just ask the shop what they would charge me to do the fluid exchande while there at it.
You could try a mityvac about $35.
Lasts quite a while..mine must be 7 years old..lots of use.
Coating the bleeders with sealant helps prevent leak down.
If you have a major leak.I would suggest getting a friend to manually bleed the brakes the old fashioned way.Sometimes it can take a long time if the system is totally emptied.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00265M...EGH6ZW63ARPY00P
Lasts quite a while..mine must be 7 years old..lots of use.
Coating the bleeders with sealant helps prevent leak down.
If you have a major leak.I would suggest getting a friend to manually bleed the brakes the old fashioned way.Sometimes it can take a long time if the system is totally emptied.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00265M...EGH6ZW63ARPY00P
gravity bleed it may take a little longer but it works great
Gravity takes a long time, depending on how high the master cylinder is. Also if you have a lot of air in your brake lines, gravity may not work as the weight of the brake fluid isn't enough to force the air out.
I've tried Mityvac and it didn't work well because there was a poor seal around the bleeder nut threads. If you don't have an excellent seal, it won't work.
There's also something called Speed Bleeder Valves. They replace your existing bleeders. They a built-in check valve that allows one-way fluid flow.
I've tried Mityvac and it didn't work well because there was a poor seal around the bleeder nut threads. If you don't have an excellent seal, it won't work.
There's also something called Speed Bleeder Valves. They replace your existing bleeders. They a built-in check valve that allows one-way fluid flow.
When I one-man brake bleed I jam a stick or jack handle between the pedal and the driver's seat cushion. The foam in the cushion pushes the pedal down.
1) Jam stick
2) open bleeder
3) close bleeder
4) unjam stick, let pedal rise
5) open reservoir, top off fluid, close lid
6) go to (1)
1) Jam stick
2) open bleeder
3) close bleeder
4) unjam stick, let pedal rise
5) open reservoir, top off fluid, close lid
6) go to (1)
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
or just take it to the shop ? my fluid has never been changed (5 year old truck) and im not real keen on trying to talk my wife through the bleeding process (slowly pump the brake now hunny)... what would you do ? worth the hassle ? 06 silverado 5.3ltr front disc rear drum.. and im also considering a rear brake job, just did the front rotors and pads, figure may as well finish with the back.. but if i take the truck to the shop for a full brake fluid service, i may as well just have them do the rear brakes..
Teaching a wife to do it is not a very big deal. I have asked my wife to do it in the past. Just make sure to give her goo instructions when to press and when to release - communications is very important so that you don't introduce air in the system. Also, put a piece of 2x4 under the pedal so that it's not pushed too far.
The other choice is to get a vacuum pump. These work well but I prefer to go the 2 person route.
or just take it to the shop ? my fluid has never been changed (5 year old truck) and im not real keen on trying to talk my wife through the bleeding process (slowly pump the brake now hunny)... what would you do ? worth the hassle ? 06 silverado 5.3ltr front disc rear drum.. and im also considering a rear brake job, just did the front rotors and pads, figure may as well finish with the back.. but if i take the truck to the shop for a full brake fluid service, i may as well just have them do the rear brakes..
Teaching a wife to do it is not a very big deal. I have asked my wife to do it in the past. Just make sure to give her goo instructions when to press and when to release - communications is very important so that you don't introduce air in the system. Also, put a piece of 2x4 under the pedal so that it's not pushed too far.
The other choice is to get a vacuum pump. These work well but I prefer to go the 2 person route.
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Most shops don't change the fluid as part of a friction replacement...so it's something you'll have to ask for...and I wonder what they would charge.
Just had the front brakes done on my super cab F150 at the Ford dealer. They charged $125 to exchange the fluid. It was a one man job from what I saw. The pedal feels much better. The pads were still ok but the Raybestos rotors has totally rotted on the inside and were causing a racket when driving. At first as you braked the noise disappeared. But as time went on it just lessened upon braking.
I'm not up to much mechanical work anymore. And with the price of ABS units it's far cheaper to replace the fluid occasionally.
Whimsey
Most shops don't change the fluid as part of a friction replacement...so it's something you'll have to ask for...and I wonder what they would charge.
Just had the front brakes done on my super cab F150 at the Ford dealer. They charged $125 to exchange the fluid. It was a one man job from what I saw. The pedal feels much better. The pads were still ok but the Raybestos rotors has totally rotted on the inside and were causing a racket when driving. At first as you braked the noise disappeared. But as time went on it just lessened upon braking.
I'm not up to much mechanical work anymore. And with the price of ABS units it's far cheaper to replace the fluid occasionally.
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: tonycarguy
I've tried Mityvac and it didn't work well because there was a poor seal around the bleeder nut threads. If you don't have an excellent seal, it won't work.
If you use one of the 2 rigid supplied hoses with the Mityvac, it will not fit well with the bleeder nut threads. I used a flexible hose I bought at an auto parts store, it seal very well and I did brake flush on 3 cars without any problem.
I've tried Mityvac and it didn't work well because there was a poor seal around the bleeder nut threads. If you don't have an excellent seal, it won't work.
If you use one of the 2 rigid supplied hoses with the Mityvac, it will not fit well with the bleeder nut threads. I used a flexible hose I bought at an auto parts store, it seal very well and I did brake flush on 3 cars without any problem.
Like others have mentioned, the Mity Vac or a knock off works well for a one man bleed.
VERY well.
First, suck out the fluid in the MC, then refill with fresh.
Then bledd by applying vacuum to the bleeder, and opening it bleeder valve. KEEP the MC Full!
VERY well.
First, suck out the fluid in the MC, then refill with fresh.
Then bledd by applying vacuum to the bleeder, and opening it bleeder valve. KEEP the MC Full!
I do my own with a hand-held vac pump. Works fine. However, the Motive brake bleeder makes this job even easier. Since you have a truck, I'm guessing you'll have plenty of room to work. I bleed mine every 2 years.
Just a word of caution.
DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE FLOOR!
If the car is older you may damage the MC seal due to built up gunk on the slave shaft.
Best thing to do is use a block of 2x4 wood to prevent the pedal from going all the way down.
DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE FLOOR!
If the car is older you may damage the MC seal due to built up gunk on the slave shaft.
Best thing to do is use a block of 2x4 wood to prevent the pedal from going all the way down.
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Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
or just take it to the shop ? my fluid has never been changed (5 year old truck) and im not real keen on trying to talk my wife through the bleeding process (slowly pump the brake now hunny)... what would you do ? worth the hassle ? 06 silverado 5.3ltr front disc rear drum.. and im also considering a rear brake job, just did the front rotors and pads, figure may as well finish with the back.. but if i take the truck to the shop for a full brake fluid service, i may as well just have them do the rear brakes..
I do this every 1-2 years on mine and my wife is the helper. It's an easy job on this truck and you will not need to lift it to complete the job. For the front wheels, you might need to turn the steering wheel for access to the bleeder.
A few words...
As was mentioned, don't pump the pedal to the floor. Put a brick behind the pedal or something so this doesn't happen.
You can use windshield washer hose to push onto the bleeders.
If you need the steps I use, I'll be glad to post them for you.
or just take it to the shop ? my fluid has never been changed (5 year old truck) and im not real keen on trying to talk my wife through the bleeding process (slowly pump the brake now hunny)... what would you do ? worth the hassle ? 06 silverado 5.3ltr front disc rear drum.. and im also considering a rear brake job, just did the front rotors and pads, figure may as well finish with the back.. but if i take the truck to the shop for a full brake fluid service, i may as well just have them do the rear brakes..
I do this every 1-2 years on mine and my wife is the helper. It's an easy job on this truck and you will not need to lift it to complete the job. For the front wheels, you might need to turn the steering wheel for access to the bleeder.
A few words...
As was mentioned, don't pump the pedal to the floor. Put a brick behind the pedal or something so this doesn't happen.
You can use windshield washer hose to push onto the bleeders.
If you need the steps I use, I'll be glad to post them for you.
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