I bought a used rider this Spring. It's a 16.5HP OHV Briggs. The manual states SAE30 for temps above 40 degrees F, or Synthetic 10W30 for temps 0-100. I did the first oil change with 10W30 synthetic (Castrol Syntec on sale). I maybe ran it 5 hrs (tops), and plan to change again this Fall before putting it away. I will leave the filter on there, but wish to change the oil again in order to clean it out (I also need to change the diptube seal, and put a quick-change valve/plug on there). Does it really need Synthetic, or will a blend or dino do fine? It's a $300 special that I use more as a toy. It just seems silly to use $8-10 oil for the old rider.
Do I really need Synthetic for 16.5 HP Briggs?
- Thread starter kkreit01
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If the manual says so then do it. Its a few extra dollars and extra insurance.
With only 5 hours on the oil it probably is still looking pretty clean! You don't really need to change it at all. How many hours does the manual say you can run the oil before a change?
In my 22hp or something craftsman b&s rider I use 5w30 qsgb, also see if the motorcraft fl400s fits it, mine does and its A better filter than the 13$ b&s one.
Thanks for your prompt replies. I already found cheap, alternative filters to use. I used Puro L10241.
I know I probably don't need to change it yet, but it leaks from the dipstick tube seal. I also want to install the quick-change valve. Thus, the oil is coming out (have parts). I've already sunk too much $ into this thing: new air filter, new blades, new tire/wheel, new pulley brakes, etc. I should have waited and spent 2x more on a new/reconditioned one that pops up once in awhile at HD/Lowes. That's why I'm asking about cheaping out on the oil this time. I should have used dino the first change, but I didn't know about the leak then. It's a real pain to get the oil level perfect. When engine off, seems like all the oil is OUT of the filter -- thus appearing overfull.
I'll probably just look for some more, synthetic on sale. I only need ~ 1 qt. It's possible that I may run it when it's colder than 40. When I change this Fall, it will be good until next Fall.
I know I probably don't need to change it yet, but it leaks from the dipstick tube seal. I also want to install the quick-change valve. Thus, the oil is coming out (have parts). I've already sunk too much $ into this thing: new air filter, new blades, new tire/wheel, new pulley brakes, etc. I should have waited and spent 2x more on a new/reconditioned one that pops up once in awhile at HD/Lowes. That's why I'm asking about cheaping out on the oil this time. I should have used dino the first change, but I didn't know about the leak then. It's a real pain to get the oil level perfect. When engine off, seems like all the oil is OUT of the filter -- thus appearing overfull.
I'll probably just look for some more, synthetic on sale. I only need ~ 1 qt. It's possible that I may run it when it's colder than 40. When I change this Fall, it will be good until next Fall.
"Synthetic" is not a spec and castrol syntec 10w-30 is not a technical synthetic.
It doesn't need a synthetic. If you're stuck on following a recommendation use SAE 30. Personally I use 5-30 conventional in mine, but I only put on about 10 hours a year. It's 23 years young and not going anywhere.
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Originally Posted By: kkreit01
The manual states SAE30 for temps above 40 degrees F, or Synthetic 10W30 for temps 0-100.
Based upon this, I believe the only reason that synthetic is being recommended is the "0" degree operating temperature. I noticed there was not an upper temperature limit on the SAE30 oil. I think your decision to use a synthetic should be based upon whether or not you intend to use it at <40 degrees.
The manual states SAE30 for temps above 40 degrees F, or Synthetic 10W30 for temps 0-100.
Based upon this, I believe the only reason that synthetic is being recommended is the "0" degree operating temperature. I noticed there was not an upper temperature limit on the SAE30 oil. I think your decision to use a synthetic should be based upon whether or not you intend to use it at <40 degrees.
I always use cheapo 30 weight in lawnmowers,compressors etc
This year I have purchased a new riding mower and pressure washer from Sears with Briggs engines. Both manuels call for 10-30 synthetic oil for all temp ranges. Of course I use M1 10-30. If your engine isn't worth a couple of extra dollars a year for oil then go with the cheaper dino.
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I have posted on here many times that I use any 15W-40 in my 20 hp B&S Intek. I can't recommend anything else, unless you're using it to move snow; in which case I'd use 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic. The only thing I'd advise you to do is change the oil filter and the oil. See if the threads match up with an auto filter. I have used four different part#'s and I can't tell the difference. The benefit of using a car filter is that they're usually larger than a B&S filter, which gives your engine a bigger amount of oil to cool the engine and hold contaminants in suspension.
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