Do I need a new battery?

[K20FA5]

My wife left her radio on today and drained her battery. The roadside assistance guy told her she needs a new one. The car is an 09 Honda, so the battery is only 2 years old. (we bought it in 08)

When I put a meter on the battery sitting I get 12.5V, car running 13.2 to 13.6. The car cranks over just fine.

I'm telling her it's OK, she is worried cause the roadside guy saipd her battery was weak. I really don't want her stranded, but also don't want to spend $90 if I don't have to.

Any advise?

 

[jrcowboys]

The readings you are getting is just fine. That doesn't prove that your battery is strong. You need someone to run a load test. Generally the local parts place will run it for you free.

That is the only way you can tell if the battery is holding a full charge.

JR

 

[HTSS_TR]

Do a load test at local auto parts.

 

[StevieC]

The readings you are getting are just fine, but I would load test it to be sure.

The Roadside Assistance guy is probably a "Rent-a-Mechanic".

 

[Craig in Canada]

Due to chemistry, some typical automotive lead-acid cells will "never be the same" if they are allowed to discharge. This is particularly true if they are discharged for a while. This could be the basis of the warning.

Fully charge the battery using a plug in charger, not the alternator, and then have it load tested. It may still fail "early" due to crystals or sulfation but if it's fine after these two tasks you've probably done all you can for the time being.

While you have the battery on the bench, check the electrolyte levels (should cover the plates fully - top up with distilled water if needed) and consider using a real hydrometer (inexpensive from a parts store) to test specific gravity after a full charge followed by a rest period.

 

[Mr Nice]

Is this Honda battery made by Panasonic or Johnson Control ?

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Due to chemistry, some typical automotive lead-acid cells will "never be the same" if they are allowed to discharge. This is particularly true if they are discharged for a while. This could be the basis of the warning.

Fully charge the battery using a plug in charger, not the alternator, and then have it load tested. It may still fail "early" due to crystals or sulfation but if it's fine after these two tasks you've probably done all you can for the time being.

While you have the battery on the bench, check the electrolyte levels (should cover the plates fully - top up with distilled water if needed) and consider using a real hydrometer (inexpensive from a parts store) to test specific gravity after a full charge followed by a rest period.



I didn't know that... My mom discharged her battery a couple times when the car was new and then we recharged it and it seemed fine and lasted for 6 years before kicking the bucket.

Maybe that is why it didn't make it to 10 years like my other batteries.

 

[stockrex]

Just charge it with an external charger

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada


Fully charge the battery using a plug in charger, not the alternator, and then have it load tested.



X2. Alternators are not designed to bring a battery back from dead.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Due to chemistry, some typical automotive lead-acid cells will "never be the same" if they are allowed to discharge. This is particularly true if they are discharged for a while. This could be the basis of the warning.


I didn't know that... My mom discharged her battery a couple times when the car was new and then we recharged it and it seemed fine and lasted for 6 years before kicking the bucket.

Maybe that is why it didn't make it to 10 years like my other batteries.



It does depend on the exact chemistry an construction priorities used. Some chemistries can't withstand going dead - others are more tolerant. "Maintenance Free" and regular lead-acid batteries seem very similar at first glance other than one being "sealed", but they differ in chemistries for instance.

I'll see if I can dig up a link on the topic. I'm grasping at my memory but I think in some cases when the battery is in a discharged state some of the ions will precipitate out of the electrolyte into solids and fall to the bottom of the cells. Not only is this material no longer available for the galvanic reaction, but it can also form a bridge and short the plates.

From a really, really quick search:

http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

Quote:
Basically there are two types of lead acid batteries (along with 3 sub categories); The two main types are Starting (cranking), and Deep Cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and therefore has a greater plate count. The plates are thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy, but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications because the thinner plates are more prone to warping and pitting when discharged. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is a compromise between the two types of batteries, though it is better to be more specific if possible.


So in a battery with particularly thin plates (I know my Interstate is lighter than other batteries for the same CCA rating - hmmm) they will warp and pit when in a discharged state.

That same link also covers sulphation which I brought up in another thread this week.

 

[StevieC]

Good to know... I keep my '89 Cabriolet on a automatic Trickle Charger when in storage over the winter and the last battery lasted 10 years.

 

[Panzerman]

If its cranking fine and the voltage sounds good, I would take the car down to the auto store, look at oil, come back and tell her you got a new battery. It wont bother her anymore. My wife discharged her battery and its happened in the past, with other batteries, without any later problems. Charge it up and dont worry about it. You will know for sure when it dies for good, trust me.

 

[bepperb]

Just because a battery is discharged to the point you need a jump one time doesn't mean it's dead.

I'd get a load test if you're worried. I really, really, really doubt the roadside guy did this on the spot.

 

[K20FA5]

It is a Johnson Controls Honda battery.

I took it to Autozone. They did the load check on it and it came back good, but at an end of life warning. The guy said that it should be fine since we seem to be done with the hottest part of the year now, but I probably will replace it before the cold winter comes just to be safe.

 

[Spyder7]

What's a cold winter like in Frisco, TX

I thought I would have to replace my battery too as I was getting sulfur discharge, but after removing it, cleaning it and coating the terminals with petroleum jelly, its been fine since. I think it may have been improperly clamped originally.

2 years on a battery is nothing. Even a cheap one should last at least 4 years. I wouldn't worry about it.

-Spyder

 

[40Deluxe]

Charge then load test

 

[JimPghPA]

Put a charger that runs from 120 AC on it for a long enough time to bring it to full charge.

Using the vehicle to bring it back up is not a good idea anymore. The load modern vehicle have is high enough that some vehicel charging systems will be damaged by over-heating by bringing a battery that has been fully discharged back up to full charge.

After it has been fully charged up drive it for a few days and then have someone do a load test on the battery. It probably is OK.

 

[JHZR2]

Usually once, maybe twice and the battry will still be OK. The battery was fairly new, so I would not sweat it.

However, I would go buy a smart charger the 2/4/8 smart version from wal mart or equivalent is good, and charge it in the car to ensure that it is really topped off after that...

 

[meep]

general rule of thumb. complete discharge on a starter battery reduces capacity by 20%.

general data: TX and other hot climates: avg lifespan for starter battery: 3 yrs.

good idea to replace in fall.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: meep

general data: TX and other hot climates: avg lifespan for starter battery: 3 yrs.

My almost 7 year old tiny group size 51R OEM battery of my 2004 S2000 bought new in Nov 2003 still start the car in less than 1 second at the touch of the starter button.