Do all jack stands sold have to meet a basic spec?

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Just like all motor oil sold has to meet API "starburst" certification, do all jack stands sold have to meet a basic spec?

I am curious because I read a lot of conflicting opinion about jack stands.

Some people go on a crusade against brands like AutoCraft (advanceautoparts home brand) or BlackJack (Walmart's Torin brand) just like others go on a crusade against less expensive engine oil.

However, after my brief reading of engine oil documentation, I saw that all motor oil sold has to meet API "starburst" certification: hence, unless I am driving a sports car (and I drive a used economy sedan) my choice in engine oil will have minimal impact as long as I stick to my oil changes regularly.

Just like I don't want to skimp up on my engine oil, I don't want to skimp up on my safety devices either!

So what are your thoughts about these:

$15 Craftsman 2-1/4 ton Jack Stands, 2 pk. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-1-4-ton-jack-stands-2-pk/p-00950182000P
$22 2 Ton Double-Lock Steel Jack Stands (2 Pack) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-Red-2-Ton-Double-Lock-Steel-Jack-Stands-2-Pack-T42002C/100594519
$25 AutoCraft 2-Ton Jack Stands http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-2-ton-jack-stands-ac942-t42002/10014620-P
$35 AutoCraft 3-Ton Jack Stands http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-3-ton-jack-stands-ac938-t43002/9042113-P

... and going back to the original question, do all jack stands sold have to meet a basic spec?

Am I at a higher risk of death if I use two pairs of AutoCraft 2-Ton Jack Stands that sell for $15 - $25/pair compared to the more expensive $50/pair ones?

I'm just trying to figure if there is really a need to pay for Royal Purple motor oil like prices whereas my engine would be just fine with Walmart brand motor oil at 1/4th the price.

If you have recommendations on alternate Jack Stands, I'm all ears!

NOTE: I will be buying two pairs because I will be doing brake and wheel jobs that will need the whole car to be hoisted: just not either front or rear wheels. My sedan has a curb weight of 2,761 lbs
 
when it comes to the armchair forum generals, they will make their voices heard loud and clear regardless you want their opinion or not, myself included.

the straight facts are, you get under a car, you might die. then again, you might not. good luck.
 
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Most of these likely come from the same shops or are made with same materials. It wouldnt hurt to use 3 ton stands to be safe..but i doubt it would make a difference, kind of like the oil debate. Use what makes you most comfortable using.
 
This is America, we sue for anything. They'll all have a fudge factor built in to cover the collective hides.

If you're working on a geo and the 2 ton version has a better fitting saddle that gets your frame better than the 3 ton, or tips less, etc that is worth considering also.

That said if one looks like it's got waaaay sloppier welds than the other, I'd take 'em back. Don't try to "fix" their welds because then, it's on you.
 
Originally Posted By: ranknewb
Just like all motor oil sold has to meet API "starburst" certification, do all jack stands sold have to meet a basic spec?.....

However, after my brief reading of engine oil documentation, I saw that all motor oil sold has to meet API "starburst" certification: hence, unless I am driving a sports car (and I drive a used economy sedan) my choice in engine oil will have minimal impact as long as I stick to my oil changes regularly.

There is no requirement anywhere that says motor oil HAS to meet API specs. If there was such a requirement, then how does non-detergent oil still exist? Just because most oils meet the spec, doesn't mean it's a requirement.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
There is no requirement anywhere that says motor oil HAS to meet API specs. If there was such a requirement, then how does non-detergent oil still exist? Just because most oils meet the spec, doesn't mean it's a requirement.


You are absolutely right. I made a wrong statement in trying to be concise as the post was getting long and I conflated two separate ideas.

I meant to imply that the general consumer wants certified oil as they rather be safe then sorry and hence almost all oil carried by major retailers are certified oil.

I should have known better, given that I spent a week reading about motor oil. There is no requirement to be certified but almost all oil carried by major retailers are certified because the consumer looks for it

The point I was trying to make is whether it's a risk buying a $15 2 Ton stand from Sears, and whether I should know better.
 
I have worked with some really poorly made jackstands, the kind made from a split tube that goes out to a three point leg with reinforcements along the base to keep the 3 legs at 120 degrees from each other, but they never failed. Failed to inspire confidence.

If you are lifting a 2 ton car (4000 pounds) and say that 65% of the weight is on the front, that means each jack stand must hold 1300 pounds of static load, directly in line to load force.

Very few structural grade steels are less than 15,000 pounds per inch2 for Yield Strength - without doing all the force calculations - the 1300 pound load is spread over some measurable area (inch2) - so the basic math would show that the stress on the metal is not exactly too extreme to hold up the corner of the car.

What causes problems are:
1. loads that shift, or are not applied to solid surfaces.
2. Cold welds on the legs of the stand (no penetration to base metal)
3. welds subjected to rust.
4. non-perpendicular applied loads, don't use jacks & stands on a steep driveway!

What's a consumer to do? buy from a large name store that has adequate liability coverage OR take your jack stands and have them tested by a shop that has a arbor press and see what happens when loads are applied.
 
I've used 2 ton Duralast stands for a couple years now with no issue and the 3 ton harbor freight brand stands for a little while too. No problems. Have also bee using rhino ramps for years as well. As long as it looks good to you and you have something to safeguard a failure, you should not worry too much. Like when you take off your wheels you set them under the sides of the car or leaving the jack a half inch from the lift point once you let the stands take the weight of the car. I never feel bad about getting under a vehicle when I have made sure that if something fails there is a second line of defense or even 3rd for that matter. This also include chocking your wheels and stuff like that too. But as others say, if you don't like taking your chances, buy a good quality brand name product that is heavily backed by the company selling it. OR take your car to a shop and let someone else worry about the car falling on them.
 
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Here is a little known fact about jack stands. Jack stands are sold in pairs and when you buy a 2 ton jack stand that 2 ton rating is for both jack stands used together not 2 tons for each stand.

Example if you buy four 2 ton jack stands they can support a maximum of 8,000 pounds. Most people think they can support 16,000 pounds but that is wrong.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Invest in good quality stands. $90 for a set of 4 is a great deal.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDispla...CFUkbgQodbDsGdQ


Thank you. What differentiates (functionally instead of otherwise) this pair from the three I mentioned?

Originally Posted By: RedVic
Here is a little known fact about jack stands. Jack stands are sold in pairs and when you buy a 2 ton jack stand that 2 ton rating is for both jack stands used together not 2 tons for each stand.

Example if you buy four 2 ton jack stands they can support a maximum of 8,000 pounds. Most people think they can support 16,000 pounds but that is wrong.



Thank you. I am aware of this (mostly by readings lots) but there are some (expensive) manufacturers, who even claim per stand (because they are so very confident in their product).

Hence, unless the manufacturer claims otherwise, a 2 Ton pair, supports 2 Ton as a pair (and not individually).

Since 2 tons = 4000 pounds, my idea (unless flawed!) of using two pair will effectively be rated at 4 Tons = 8000 pounds, just like you stated
 
I'm of the belief that since jack stands are one of your most important tools, why not purchase a well reputed brand that withstood the test of time, and choose a set of their best stands?

I've got US Jack 6 tons. Frankly, they were about $100/pair. In the grand scheme of things that's pretty cheap.
 
Buy extra capacity and always double locking. Have a secondary support.
I've read the owners manuals for Jack stands and they often do not recommend to support the entire car on 4 but to only use two and support half of the car. No clue why.
 
I prefer the jack stands with pins. I have a pair of Larin 6 ton stands, but they are pretty tall and most likely only good for trucks and SUV's.

I am not a fan of using stands for oil changes in cars though. I never understood where one would lift the car and place the stand while it was up. Her car for example has 1 lift point on each corner.
 
Originally Posted By: ranknewb
Originally Posted By: Trav
Invest in good quality stands. $90 for a set of 4 is a great deal.

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDispla...CFUkbgQodbDsGdQ


Thank you. What differentiates (functionally instead of otherwise) this pair from the three I mentioned?

Originally Posted By: RedVic
Here is a little known fact about jack stands. Jack stands are sold in pairs and when you buy a 2 ton jack stand that 2 ton rating is for both jack stands used together not 2 tons for each stand.

Example if you buy four 2 ton jack stands they can support a maximum of 8,000 pounds. Most people think they can support 16,000 pounds but that is wrong.



Thank you. I am aware of this (mostly by readings lots) but there are some (expensive) manufacturers, who even claim per stand (because they are so very confident in their product).

Hence, unless the manufacturer claims otherwise, a 2 Ton pair, supports 2 Ton as a pair (and not individually).

Since 2 tons = 4000 pounds, my idea (unless flawed!) of using two pair will effectively be rated at 4 Tons = 8000 pounds, just like you stated


HW is a good name with a good reputation for high quality stands and jacks, the true blue line (which these are) are either made in USA like they always were or assembled in USA.
They are welded together and tested in the USA and are flatter on top than most making them ideal for use under subframe sections which is where most newer uni bodies are supported.

A lot of the the others inc HF ones have a deeper top piece that is better suited to live axle tubes commonly found on pickups.
The HW have been a shop standard for decades and from what i can tell the new ones are the same as the old ones.
 
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
I've read the owners manuals for Jack stands and they often do not recommend to support the entire car on 4 but to only use two and support half of the car. No clue why.


That is a very interesting point! Thanks for sharing. If you could post a picture of that part of the manual, that would be very helpful.

I'll probably ask this specifically as a new question as this is a safety concern then.
 
Originally Posted By: ranknewb
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
I've read the owners manuals for Jack stands and they often do not recommend to support the entire car on 4 but to only use two and support half of the car. No clue why.


That is a very interesting point! Thanks for sharing. If you could post a picture of that part of the manual, that would be very helpful.

I'll probably ask this specifically as a new question as this is a safety concern then.


I was curious one day and just started googling OM of any jack stand I could find. First I was surprised at the conflicting info in each. Some state as above that weight is for a pair, but some dont even mention that and are not clear on the topic. Most say to only use a pair and not all 4 corners. I found this in most manuals.
 
Originally Posted By: ranknewb
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
I've read the owners manuals for Jack stands and they often do not recommend to support the entire car on 4 but to only use two and support half of the car. No clue why.


That is a very interesting point! Thanks for sharing. If you could post a picture of that part of the manual, that would be very helpful.

I'll probably ask this specifically as a new question as this is a safety concern then.


If you have one axle in the air and are lifting the other axle, the jack going through its circular arc could load the existing pair of stands, making them lean. If you jack a third corner, the car will teeter on the RF and LR, or LF and RR. Sometimes though if the rear is light the entire rear will lift when jacking one corner, which stresses the chassis. Stressed as it is, then, it won't put the same amount of weight on either corner. A corner with little weight could get kicked out when you wheel around on your creeper etc.

It is very easy, particularly when jacking high to do a clutch etc, to sideways load a stand and have it tippy. Always always grab the car when you think you have it up and yank it every which way. Look at your stand legs to see if they're doing "wheelies" and try (gently) to tug them.
 
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