What do I need, and how do I do it?
Thanks.
Thanks.
DIY Alignment...
- Thread starter The Critic
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I done my van about 2 months ago because I bought new tires and they started wearing the outsides real bad. Drives straight now and no more tire wear at all. I set the camber and the toe with only a stanley tape measure. Have it done somewhere, Trust me.
AFAIK, without special tools you can only set your toe.
But on most cars that's all you can adjust.
I'd done it with a tape measure across the tire treads. Measure front and rear, the difference is your toe, in or out.
Best to do this with the car on the ground as the settings change with suspension travel.
If you want a straight steering wheel it's best to goto an alignment shop.
Ask for a thrust alignment.
for more DIY info you could start by looking on google
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&q=DIY+Alignment&btnG=Search
But on most cars that's all you can adjust.
I'd done it with a tape measure across the tire treads. Measure front and rear, the difference is your toe, in or out.
Best to do this with the car on the ground as the settings change with suspension travel.
If you want a straight steering wheel it's best to goto an alignment shop.
Ask for a thrust alignment.
for more DIY info you could start by looking on google
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&q=DIY+Alignment&btnG=Search
Steel tape measure, masking tape, string, and a dial type level indicator.
You have to have a level surface for camber testing. Shim a wheel with floor tiles, if necessary.
You can check the toe anytime the car is on the ground.
With camber, having both sides equal is more important than being off 1/2 deg from specs.
Your susp[ension has to be in good shape, as well as good, properly inflated tires.
1 Pull in to where you are doing the work, with the steering wheel as it is when driving normally straight.
2 Check your caster on a straight part of the wheel. Use wood blocks shims on your gauge [or whatever] to get a flush and accurate spot, if needed.
3 Adjust your caster. Some have top strut mounts that are adjustable, or can be ground out to allow movement, have adjustable cam bolts on the upper cross bolt, or you can get a camber kit for $20.00 that replaces the upper cross bolt.
4 Drive the car around the block and repeat checking it. Like the shampoo bottle says, lather and repeat as necessary!
5 Now, adjust the toe. Measure at the same height in front and back of the tire. Tape your steel tape to one repeatable sipe on a tire, and simply read the other side at a repeateble line, or sipe.
The difference is your toe in/out. Adjust it by the outer tie rod ends. Guess what? Drive it and repeat to check everything.
6 Your steering wheel is probably off now, when driving straight. Simply turn one tie rod end in, and one out [the exact same amount], to center the wheel. Once again, you have to drive and settle everything. Pull back into your spot.
7 Are the rears adjustable? With the car pulled in straight, and everything good up front, tape your string to the back outside of your rear tires, and by holding it taught swing aroung until it touches the front outside of the tire. You want them to be pointing in/out the same. Use the body or front tires as a reference. Adjust the total toe as needed, and make sure they 'point' the same afterwards .
This will involve a lot of checking and rechecking, but you can get a near perfect alignment, to stock, or your special specs.
I hate long posts, but I needed to touch on a lot of points.
Google 'home auto alignment', or some such wording. You will come up with a plan that will work!
You have to have a level surface for camber testing. Shim a wheel with floor tiles, if necessary.
You can check the toe anytime the car is on the ground.
With camber, having both sides equal is more important than being off 1/2 deg from specs.
Your susp[ension has to be in good shape, as well as good, properly inflated tires.
1 Pull in to where you are doing the work, with the steering wheel as it is when driving normally straight.
2 Check your caster on a straight part of the wheel. Use wood blocks shims on your gauge [or whatever] to get a flush and accurate spot, if needed.
3 Adjust your caster. Some have top strut mounts that are adjustable, or can be ground out to allow movement, have adjustable cam bolts on the upper cross bolt, or you can get a camber kit for $20.00 that replaces the upper cross bolt.
4 Drive the car around the block and repeat checking it. Like the shampoo bottle says, lather and repeat as necessary!
5 Now, adjust the toe. Measure at the same height in front and back of the tire. Tape your steel tape to one repeatable sipe on a tire, and simply read the other side at a repeateble line, or sipe.
The difference is your toe in/out. Adjust it by the outer tie rod ends. Guess what? Drive it and repeat to check everything.
6 Your steering wheel is probably off now, when driving straight. Simply turn one tie rod end in, and one out [the exact same amount], to center the wheel. Once again, you have to drive and settle everything. Pull back into your spot.
7 Are the rears adjustable? With the car pulled in straight, and everything good up front, tape your string to the back outside of your rear tires, and by holding it taught swing aroung until it touches the front outside of the tire. You want them to be pointing in/out the same. Use the body or front tires as a reference. Adjust the total toe as needed, and make sure they 'point' the same afterwards .
This will involve a lot of checking and rechecking, but you can get a near perfect alignment, to stock, or your special specs.
I hate long posts, but I needed to touch on a lot of points.
Google 'home auto alignment', or some such wording. You will come up with a plan that will work!
Thanks, this is a lot more complicated than I thought.
The nuts that hold the tie rod tubes in place can be very tight. How does one loosen them using open end wrenches without rounding the edges off? I've soaked what I can in BP Blaster but so far it hasn't made a differnce in getting them to budge.
Alignment is something that, for most of us, should be left to the professionals. My $0.02
P.B.
How many of us have tried to save $50.00 by doing a job ourselves when we weren't sure what we were doing, and ended up paying $200.00 after we buggered everything up ??!!
P.B.
How many of us have tried to save $50.00 by doing a job ourselves when we weren't sure what we were doing, and ended up paying $200.00 after we buggered everything up ??!!
do camber with a bubble level, toe with a string and 2 jackstands.
i can honestly say that each time i have done my own alignment i saved $50 (and i do lots of cars, each time i race i set the alitnment for racing, when i get home i set it for street),
and sence i havent messed up yet i havent had to pay $200.
and, with the attitude of leaving things to professionals, you might as well take youre car to the dealer to change the wiper blades just like most owner manuals say to.
i can honestly say that each time i have done my own alignment i saved $50 (and i do lots of cars, each time i race i set the alitnment for racing, when i get home i set it for street),
and sence i havent messed up yet i havent had to pay $200.
and, with the attitude of leaving things to professionals, you might as well take youre car to the dealer to change the wiper blades just like most owner manuals say to.
That's why I gave $13,897 in 1998 for a computerized system to "uncomplicate" it for myself and my employees. At the time there were much more expensive systems on the market, but here in the hills of Arkansas we're all too dumb to appreciate cutting edge!
bob
You have some pretty smart fellers over in Conway that know about wheel alignmanet equipment.quote:
Originally posted by alreadygone:
That's why I gave $13,897 in 1998 for a computerized system to "uncomplicate" it for myself and my employees. At the time there were much more expensive systems on the market, but here in the hills of Arkansas we're all too dumb to appreciate cutting edge!
bob
http://www.johnbean.com/company_info.asp
That's where I bought what I have! And yes they are cutting edge,, the equipment also.
Bob
Bob
They don't do so bad for a company that got it's start the late 19th century in a little agricultural community in California. San Jose.
If you're really interested in DIY alignment, buy Fred Puhn's "How to make your car handle".
BTW, EVERY car has completely adjustable alignment, but sometimes you need to cut slots or bend parts - not something I'd recommend for a beginner.
BTW, EVERY car has completely adjustable alignment, but sometimes you need to cut slots or bend parts - not something I'd recommend for a beginner.
The easy way is to use a coupon on ladies day at your local alignment shop.
i do alignment on every car while it is on the ground. i guss you assumed jacked the car up because i mentioned jackstands or something. nah, i awalys do em right on the ground.
the jackstands sit next to the car and hold the string in place.
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