Dirt bike air filter question - WHY????

[sunruh]

no-toil requires their own "soap", but i have found that oxyclean works just the same and costs less.
with a bed-bath-BEYOND coupon it becomes very cheap.

do a used oil analysis and lets see your silicone level!

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: 87sammy
My owner manuals 88 CR500 01 TRX350 08 TRX450 all say to use foam filter oil.


Thanks for the update.

All Honda equipment right? I've never owned Honda off road equipment so I didn't know that.

At $14.00/litre, I'm not drinking the Koolaid. Have you ever seen/used chainsaw oil? It sticks like gorilla snot and it's dirt cheap. You can buy a gallon of it for that price.

I'm beginning to understand how events like "Jonestown" can happen......

 

[azsynthetic]

Or you could be the one that said the earth is flat and every one else said it is round. Your personal experience is at a noise level compares to that of Honda and oil manufacturers. I use K&N filter oil and it seems to attract and retain more dirt than regular motor oil just like the article said. Not all oils are foam compatible. I use car oils for cars, motorcycle oils for motorcycles, transmission oils for transmission, bar oils for chain saws, and foam filter oil for foam filter. If money is an issue then yeah I'll use car oil for everything.

 

[boraticus]

Some people think for themselves and act on their own decisions. Others have people think for them then follow instructions. I like to think for myself.

I have no problem spending money. However, I do have a problem wasting it. Therein lies the difference. I'll pay big bucks for big value and/or big improvements or gains. I'm not about to swallow loads of marketing [censored] and lay out ridiculous money for very little improvement or benefit.

That's the beauty of original thought and free thinking vs. following the "herd mentality". The ability to understand that paying $12.00/litre more for maybe .001% gain in improvement goes a long way to keep me wealthy rather than filling the coffers of a snake oil company.

By the way, I know the world is round because I went across it!

Now finish your Koolaid.

 

[azsynthetic]

Free thinking based on personal experience to me means very little if nothing compares to the R&D of OEM manufacturers and oil manufacturers. You can think freely all you want but that does not mean that you are correct. My money is on Honda and oil manufacturers. To any scientific mind you are the Koolaid mixer because you have no scientific evidence, only hearsay. You can ask any oil manufacturers or foam filter manufacturers and they will tell you that not all oils are foam compatible.

 

[boraticus]

Since the concept of cost/benefit analysis appears to elude you, I say; Go for it.

The $12.00 I'll save on one freaking litre, will go toward a nice T-bone. You can dine at Ron's Steak House and chow down a McHappy for a $1.99 while you're reading the instructions on how to line up the oil molecules to make sure the catch all the dirt....

It's been entertaining discussing this with you but it appears you've been too deeply programmed to see the point of my argument.

Is there a possibility that you might just be a sake oil dealer?

 

[azsynthetic]

Your cost/benefit analysis only shows that you're too cheap to buy the correct oil and nothing more. You have not scientifically shown any benefit in using the wrong oil, only that it saves you money for dinner. I don't sell oil and I don't try to skim on oil money so I can have a steak. I got money for both the right oils and a rib eye. Haven't eaten a T-bone since college when I was on a budget. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how foam filter oils are tested by the manufacturers. You might want to do a little searching and may be learned something.

 

[sw99]

Well, I picked up a couple of the No-Toil cleaner/oil/rim grease kits at the local bike shop. They had them in the bargain rack under the Kawasaki label for $7.99 (when the no-Toil label packs were $19.00). I'll give it a go and see how it does.

This has been an interesting discussion I must admit. The only I noticed personally is that the Bel-Ray Foam Filter Oil I have used is incredibly tacky. To the point where it strings off my hands when applying. It's darn near an adhesive... Given the observations, It would attract and hold dirt very well. I have my doubts about the Bar oil's or engine oils but I will look in to them for future use. I may just give the Bar oil a try with my old filter though, just for grins. I like the idea of leaving a large bucket of solvent in the shop for quick cleanings.

 

[boraticus]

Well, I picked up a couple of the No-Toil cleaner/oil/rim grease kits at the local bike shop. They had them in the bargain rack under the Kawasaki label for $7.99 (when the no-Toil label packs were $19.00). I'll give it a go and see how it does.

This has been an interesting discussion I must admit. The only I noticed personally is that the Bel-Ray Foam Filter Oil I have used is incredibly tacky. To the point where it strings off my hands when applying. It's darn near an adhesive... Given the observations, It would attract and hold dirt very well. I have my doubts about the Bar oil's or engine oils but I will look in to them for future use. I may just give the Bar oil a try with my old filter though, just for grins. I like the idea of leaving a large bucket of solvent in the shop for quick cleanings.

[/quote

The easiest and least messy way to oil a foam filter after cleaning, is to put it in a plastic zip lock bag, add a few oz. of chainsaw bar oil, close bag and massage oil into the filter. Once the oil is absorbed and well distributed, move the filter toward the bag opening and squeeze excess oil into the bottom of the bag. Hold the filter with the bag open and slip the filter basket into the filter ensuring that it fits properly. That will help reduce the amount of handling involved. By the way, you can get summer weight and winter weight bar oil. Summer being thicker. It's usually around $3.00/litre.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Your cost/benefit analysis only shows that you're too cheap to buy the correct oil and nothing more. You have not scientifically shown any benefit in using the wrong oil, only that it saves you money for dinner. I don't sell oil and I don't try to skim on oil money so I can have a steak. I got money for both the right oils and a rib eye. Haven't eaten a T-bone since college when I was on a budget. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how foam filter oils are tested by the manufacturers. You might want to do a little searching and may be learned something.


I know this is off topic but, I have to say, it seems you know as much about meat as you do oil.

If you were eating T-bone steaks in college, you must have had a pretty good budget. You make it sound like a T-bone is a low grade cut. On the contrary, they're one of the most prized cuts of beef. The following excerpt is for your edification:

"Due to their large size and the fact that they contain meat from two of the most prized cuts of beef (the short loin and the tenderloin), T-bone steaks are generally considered one of the highest quality steaks, and prices at steakhouses are accordingly high."

Rib eyes are too fatty for me.

 

[azsynthetic]

I have eaten a lot of corn fed Iowa and Nebraska steaks while I was in college, U. of Minn. and U. of Iowa alumni. Rib eye steaks are always another $3-5 more per steak compared to T-bone and beer was only $10/case (1982). So, I have to eat T-bone to save on the beer money. I like them marbles in the rib eyes, that is the main reason why I don't eat NY steaks. My weekly steak is still U.S.D.A. Prime Black Angus rib eye, Nebraska Corn Fed, Dry Aged 35 Days and lightly brush with my own special sauce. I got two in the fridge right now for Sunday NFL games.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
I have eaten a lot of corn fed Iowa and Nebraska steaks while I was in college, U. of Minn. and U. of Iowa alumni. Rib eye steaks are always another $3-5 more per steak compared to T-bone and beer was only $10/case (1982). So, I have to eat T-bone to save on the beer money. I like them marbles in the rib eyes, that is the main reason why I don't eat NY steaks. My weekly steak is still U.S.D.A. Prime Black Angus rib eye, Nebraska Corn Fed, Dry Aged 35 Days and lightly brush with my own special sauce. I got two in the fridge right now for Sunday NFL games.



Each to his own I guess.

I ate nothing but strip loin (NY steaks) medium rare, for years. I like the leaner cuts. Something about chewing chunks of fat puts me off my feed.

I tried a T bone a few months back and really enjoyed it. That's been my preference since. Think I'll give a Porterhouse a shot to see if there's any difference. For some reason, I can't handle filet mignon. The meat is tender enough but tastes a bit too much of iron.

How 'bout ribs? You like ribs? I put a rub of seasoned salt, garlic powder and lemon pepper on ribs and do them on the BBQ. Low heat, smoked for an hour or two with mesquite. Ohhhh yeahhh!!!!

Enjoy your steaks and football game tonight.

I'll be living the lowlife. Frying up a couple Newfoundland round steaks (1/2" thick bologna) gently saute'ed in half a pound of pork lard until they look like a couple terracotta tea cups. Fill them with instant mashed potatoes and spend the rest of the night hurling......

 

[robbobster]

Originally Posted By: sw99
Well, I picked up a couple of the No-Toil cleaner/oil/rim grease kits at the local bike shop. They had them in the bargain rack under the Kawasaki label for $7.99 (when the no-Toil label packs were $19.00). I'll give it a go and see how it does.



Nice find.
That's a great price.
I'd stock up for sure at that price.

 

[sw99]

That's what I was thinking. They also had a factory Honda Filter and the same No-Toil kit (Under the Honda Label) for $32. Pretty good deal since the filters alone were $42.

 

[Cmarti]

I am not sure it is as important as any marketer would make it appear for normal utility use in the midwest. I imagine dune riding and racing would test the application a bit more.

I have multiple ATV and dirt bikes using foam filters. I have used foam filter oil, bar oil, kerosene, and even experimented with Pledge Dust Grabber. No engine rebuilds required due to dirt in the top end.

Value of the equipment usually dictated what I would use. Kids tearing and drowning up equipment lowered my level of caring. On my new $tuff I did not cut a corner.

I realize my experience proves nothing, but it leaves me with the impression that a foam filter in an air box is not something to loose sleep over. On the other hand thousands of us post here because oil choice is sooo important, and who has actually had an oil related engine failure? (NOT design, maintenance, or casting failure, but the oil failed to do it's job as stated)

 

[boraticus]

Cmarti:

I couldn't agree more with your last paragraph. I've got literally decades of off road vehicle use (dirt racing motorcycles and four ATVs as well as a dual purpose bike). All of them have oiled foam filters which are usually oiled with a heavy engine oil. In almost thirty years and hundreds of hours riding off road, I never experienced an engine problem of any sort. Making sure that the foam element is thoroughly and properly oiled is 99.9% of ensuring good filtration. The type of oil is good for the balance.

 

[PT1]

Filter oil = cheap ATF in a spray bottle. A quart of ST ATF and an old windex bottle works fine. Tip: buy 2-3 filters so one dries while one is in use and one waiting to be cleaned.

Try washing them in the diswasher with no heat/dry cycle.

Just don't let your OL see you do it.

 

[Jimbo]

Originally Posted By: Cmarti

I have used foam filter oil, bar oil, kerosene, and even experimented with Pledge Dust Grabber.




I was going to try chain bar oil because I already have it. The tackyness would seem like a plus. Yamaha just calls for 10w30 motor oil, nothing special.