Dilemma: CRV OCI theory help

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Hi there;

We have 2016 CRV; tonight I just did my 2nd oil change; 10k on the odometer; MM was at 40% of oil life left;
My dilemma is should I use cheapest synthetic oil/filter and change them at 5k or I should stick with respected brands and keep the oil and filter for longer change intervals; which option would choose; anyway, we plan to keep it for a long, long time hopefully.
In other words, what would be the most cost effective option in our case

Advice please

Ps
We like the vehicle
901ymv.jpg
 
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So, how long would the oci be if you actually respected the OLM?

I know in our odyssey, it's around 5k mikes. In the accord hybrid,miss more like 12k...

If your crc is in the 6-8k mile range, I'd run a half decent oil and forget it.
 
Use any respectable synthetic and run the OLM down to 5%. My CR-V Gets this over and over and has just past 130,000 with no issues.
 
If you like the car, and I bet you paid good money for it, use quality synth oil, and don't buy into long OCIs. Learn to do the changes yourself and have peace of mind with proper level and tight drain bolt and filter back in place.
 
I don't own a honda but I do have a newer car that I plan to drive for a long time. I use Mazda branded synthetic and I have no qualms doing 7500 miles. My OLM is usually at 60% still but I can't go over 10k for warranty. I don't consider 7500 miles an extended drain.
 
Thank you for all your valuable input;

I may overthinking this but I wanted to strike the balance between cost, quality, and efficiency; I did 2x oil and filter changes so far at 40% using M1 0w-20 that goes for $25 and Fram Ultra filter respectively for $9; is it overkill in the long run!?

Or simply use SuperTech 0w - 20 that goes for $15 and Fram Basic filter that cost $5 and then change them at 5k which is normally at 40% OLM; Am I doing disservice to its engine in the long run!??

Again I thank you for your help
 
Originally Posted By: Spector
Using just about any oil, even conventional, at 5000 mile intervals, the engine will outlast the rest of the vehicle.

Unless your vehicle's manual actually specifies synthetic oil, a name brand conventional oil meeting the specs and changed at the oil monitor's recommended interval will be fine. I wouldn't use a no-name brand oil.
 
Go buy you some Napa gold filters next time they are on sale. QSUD can be had for roughly $20 jug at Walmart. Follow oil life monitor down to 10% or less. Quality oil and filter for roughly $25. Move on to worrying about something important like what's for dinner?
 
Mobil is still running their $12 per jug rebate (limit 2). Also, FRAM is running a $4 rebate when you buy an oil filter + air filter on the same receipt.

If you have an upcoming air filter change interval, just go pick up a jug of M1EP or M1AFE 0W-20 for $25.47 + a FRAM TG7317 oil filter for $5.98 + a FRAM CA11945 air filter for $10.98. You are looking at $26.43 after rebates for everything (oil + oil filter + air filter).

If you don't need to do your air filer then it comes out to $19.45 (oil + oil filter after rebate).
 
When people ask me this question (I am an Acura tech, so get asked often), I recommend following the MM, but, at 50%, do a quick oil change, but not required to change the filter, and do not reset the MM. Then when the MM gets down to 0 or 5%, do whatever service it asks for. That way you are not missing any important services. Is your vehicle AWD? The rear diff fluid should have been changed at the second service! You don't want to have to pay for a new rear diff because the service was skipped, have seen it several times. Make sure to do the brake services!!

Your car calls for a full synthetic 0W20, make sure to always use a full synthetic.
 
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I have a 2015 and like it, too. But these Honda DI engines are pretty good at diluting engine oil with fuel, so I'd be wary of long OCIs, especially if you're going to be a long-term owner. So I'd go the cheaper/more frequent route; even 5k may be pushing it a bit.

If you'd like to make it easy, invest in an oil extractor (Mityvac or equivalent) and extract and replace the oil when the MM gets to 60%, leave the filter in place (as Honda allows) and don't reset the MM. This should take 20 minutes or less. When the MM gets to 15-20%, replace the oil, filter and reset the MM. As your manual will tell you, refill capacity is 4.4 quarts without a filter change, 4.6 with.

There are lots of oil choices, but as others have pointed out, Magnetec 0w-20 is well-regarded and a bargain. If your local WM doesn't carry it, order 3 jugs from WM online and have it delivered free.

This could be overkill, but it's cheap insurance. If you want to confirm whatever choice you make is working, consider a used oil analysis from a firm that uses gas chromatography to measure fuel dilution. Polaris/Oil Analyzers is one.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
..Is your vehicle AWD? The rear diff fluid should have been changed at the second service! You don't want to have to pay for a new rear diff because the service was skipped, have seen it several times. Make sure to do the brake services!!

Your car calls for a full synthetic 0W20, make sure to always use a full synthetic.


What/when is the second service? Just curious if the owner's manual and/or Honda maintenance minder prompt for this rear diff service? Never heard of one being 'required' so soon.
 
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Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
..Is your vehicle AWD? The rear diff fluid should have been changed at the second service! You don't want to have to pay for a new rear diff because the service was skipped, have seen it several times. Make sure to do the brake services!!

Your car calls for a full synthetic 0W20, make sure to always use a full synthetic.


What/when is the second service? Just curious if the owner's manual and/or Honda maintenance minder prompt for this rear diff service? Never heard of one being 'required' so soon.


My MM suggested this at around the 15,000 mile mark. I think subsequent services have a longer interval and the first may be a function of break-in debris. About $ 90 at a Honda dealer which, while high, isn't outrageous.
 
My 2006 Odyssey (non VCM, thankfully!) gets conventional changes at 5K intervals or Synthetic changes at 10K. Filter every 10K either way. Perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: montero1
Cost effective? Supertech Synthetic every 5k, with Baldwin Filter every 10k.


Amen!
 
Lots of valuable information to consider here; Thank you all!

Back my our CRV, it is a two wheel drive vehicle: we live in the sun belt so no need for 4 wheel; I also don't mind get dirty and keep car in clean and mechanically solid shape;

I may order the oil analysis on Blackstone lab next oil change so that would let me know about my oil interval change, what's going on whithin the engine and what suits the best for the car at a lower cost
 
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