I have a 2000 silverado 1500 that just turned 141k miles. Great running truck. While doing the maintenance today I was thinking about changing the differential fluid. I have had the truck for 8 years and it’s never been done by me. Quite possibly it’s never been done I’m not sure. If it has never been changed is there any reason for not changing it now since it’s gone this long?
Differential oil?
- Thread starter Ohio91
- Start date
- Status
I have a 2002 Tahoe with 272k miles, same rear end, and I use High Performance Lubricants Differential Life 75w-110. I use the 110 grade since I tow a good bit with it and wanted the extra cushion.
I'm a firm believer that the saying "don't fix what isn't broken" doesn't apply to lubricants. Change it. I do mine every 50k miles.
I'm a firm believer that the saying "don't fix what isn't broken" doesn't apply to lubricants. Change it. I do mine every 50k miles.
It's called preventative maintenance to me. 2021 JEEP Gladiator, just changed the rear differential at 1000 miles. Pretty shiny with very small metal pieces, the magnet had a pretty good amount of gray goo on it. I like to get the initial break-in oil out. Over kill??? Maybe, but that's me.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
The Jeep axles seem to make metal … I put Mobil 1 and Valvoline synthetic in at 3k … and by 7k the gear oil was once again as you described …
Filled front & rear with 85W140 Valvoline conventional and going to leave that in for the summer … will go back to synthetic at some point …
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Amsoil Severe Gear.
Yes, change it and check for a magnet inside and clean the metal shards off the magnet. Not sure which axle you have but look for the magnet below the ring gear at the bottom of the diff. It may be hard to see.
Absolutely change it, and check the owners manual to see if you need LS additive and verify the correct viscosity.
If it’s a G80 locker, he won’t want the LS additive.
I would do it and you likely won't have to do it again.
Go with a synthetic gear oil and you are good for at least another 100K miles.
I am a fan of Amsoil SVG gear oil. But there are many quality synthetic gear oils out there.
This ^^^
a good time to upgrade to a Redline real synthetic, did all of my drivetrain fluids on my preowned 2011 Fronty SV 4WD + 6 spd manual with 30xxx on it + picked up 3 mpgs 75-90 real synthetic as dana recommends NOT overpriced Nissan 75-140 semi syn. in the rear of course get it warmed after a good drive + dump it + if cover is off inspect + wipe it out.
Did anyone say change it? I would listen to them...
dnewton3
Staff member
The AAM axles are fairly decent. The 1500s had the smaller of the two. If it's a G-80 "locker", then you'll want a GL-5 fluid that includes some LS additive.
OK - I hear all of you ready to rev up your YaBut engines (Yeah, but Dave, it's a "locker"). Well, the dirty little secret is that it's not a real "locker" (not in the sense of a "Detroit" or other simple mechanical constant bias device). Trust me on this ...
I have investigated these to the nth degree. These "lockers" are actually limited slip units which use a cam-ramp system to "lock" (increase pressure on the clutch pack). Eaton (who makes the "locker") has stated that any GL-5 lube will suffice, and the LS additive is needed to keep the clutch pack from having nuisance locking and chatter issues.
The misconception regarding LS additive and the G-80 comes from an old GM statement that says not to "add" LS chemicals to their GM branded lube. This is because the GM branded lube already has LS additive in it, and it does not need "more" (don't add some to what already exists in the over-the-counter GM lube). It's not that the G-80 doesn't need LS at all; it certainly does! They just don't want you to "add" LS stuff to the GM branded "grape juice" (so knick-named because of it's distinct grape-like odor, believe it or not). IIRC, and it's been a LONG time since I've looked this up, the GM spec number for the lube in question is 9986115, or something like that. That spec is simply for a syn GL-5 with LS added to it. Nothing special whatsoever.
If you buy a GL-5 lube that has LS additive in it; great - go ahead and use it.
If you buy a GL-5 lube that does not include LS, you'll want to get a small bottle of LS additive, and add in a small amount at a time until the nuisance locking and chatter goes away. (Start with perhaps 4oz, and then add 1oz at a time after the initial 4oz until the unwanted chatter and nuisance locking goes away).
OK - I hear all of you ready to rev up your YaBut engines (Yeah, but Dave, it's a "locker"). Well, the dirty little secret is that it's not a real "locker" (not in the sense of a "Detroit" or other simple mechanical constant bias device). Trust me on this ...
I have investigated these to the nth degree. These "lockers" are actually limited slip units which use a cam-ramp system to "lock" (increase pressure on the clutch pack). Eaton (who makes the "locker") has stated that any GL-5 lube will suffice, and the LS additive is needed to keep the clutch pack from having nuisance locking and chatter issues.
The misconception regarding LS additive and the G-80 comes from an old GM statement that says not to "add" LS chemicals to their GM branded lube. This is because the GM branded lube already has LS additive in it, and it does not need "more" (don't add some to what already exists in the over-the-counter GM lube). It's not that the G-80 doesn't need LS at all; it certainly does! They just don't want you to "add" LS stuff to the GM branded "grape juice" (so knick-named because of it's distinct grape-like odor, believe it or not). IIRC, and it's been a LONG time since I've looked this up, the GM spec number for the lube in question is 9986115, or something like that. That spec is simply for a syn GL-5 with LS added to it. Nothing special whatsoever.
If you buy a GL-5 lube that has LS additive in it; great - go ahead and use it.
If you buy a GL-5 lube that does not include LS, you'll want to get a small bottle of LS additive, and add in a small amount at a time until the nuisance locking and chatter goes away. (Start with perhaps 4oz, and then add 1oz at a time after the initial 4oz until the unwanted chatter and nuisance locking goes away).
EASY to change. There is a drain plug on the bottom, but before you remove it, make sure the fill plug is loose or removed. If you don't tow much 75w-90 is fine...synthetic only though.
If you'll be keeping the truck awhile, I would go ahead and change it. We're talking maybe $40 and less than an hour's time, then you can drive in complete confidence. When I buy a used vehicle, I will change out all fluids unless there are service receipts showing a recent fluid change.
- Status
Similar threads
- Question
