I was trying to change my diff fluid in my car tonight, but cannot get the fill plug to open. Luckily I opened tried to open the fill plug before opening the drain plug, or I would be in really bad shape. I used a big ratchet, tried hitting the ratchet with a hammer, but it would not move. I even used liquid wrench to no avail. I didnt want to strip the screw (i dented part of it from pushing so hard). Any ideas, the car was on ramps, so there is no room for a cheater bar. I may just take it to the transmission place to do it, but before I do....Any suggestions?
Differential Fill Plug Won't Budge 97 Avalon
- Thread starter parimento1
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Get out the torch!
I dont have a torch hehe and prob wouldnt trust myself with one of those...with so much grease in that area i'd prob burm down my whole neighborhood! Ill take it to Aamco tomorrow, I figure im filling it up with mobil 1 75W90 so this will prob be the last time I ever have to touch the diff fluid anyway.
Heat will almost assuredly get her loose.
Heating will break it's bond, or the surrounding area to expand and loosen it.
But a real torch is much better than propane - MAP gas is OK, and should work.
Heating will break it's bond, or the surrounding area to expand and loosen it.
But a real torch is much better than propane - MAP gas is OK, and should work.
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The way I always break the drain/fill plugs loose is I put the lug wrench on the end of the ratchet for extra leverage and it`ll break the plugs loose every time.
Originally Posted By: parimento1
I figure im filling it up with mobil 1 75W90 so this will prob be the last time I ever have to touch the diff fluid anyway.
Please double check the fluid that is needed. I am pretty sure the '97 Avalon calls for regular Dex III in the differential.
I figure im filling it up with mobil 1 75W90 so this will prob be the last time I ever have to touch the diff fluid anyway.
Please double check the fluid that is needed. I am pretty sure the '97 Avalon calls for regular Dex III in the differential.
I had the same problem on a friend's 1999 Camry (i4)
After struggling with it, some sharp taps on the bolt finally allowed me to get it off with the wrench. It was in an awkward place, I could not use a socket and thus extend my leverage with contraptions.
After struggling with it, some sharp taps on the bolt finally allowed me to get it off with the wrench. It was in an awkward place, I could not use a socket and thus extend my leverage with contraptions.
Worst case you buy a new cover, but the breaker bar should do it if you can find space to apply leverage, which is where a hoist is nice. Maybe take it to a trusted shop where you can be sure they will not confiscate you premium fill (let them get the pulg out).
OTOH, diffys can last a long time without change. My former '84 F150 is still running at 275,000+ miles on the original diffy fill (I know the owner).
OTOH, diffys can last a long time without change. My former '84 F150 is still running at 275,000+ miles on the original diffy fill (I know the owner).
yea, the reason I changed the diff fluid was because it was whining with ATF in it. I took it to Aamco today and he put it on the lift, and used a breaker bar with some sort of spray to loosen it. I could not get a breaker bar under the car because I did not have clearance. I'm happy now, b/c its a one time thing, I will never have to touch the diff again for as long as I own the car, as the diffs are gentle on fluid, and in this application the fluid will outlast the car I am sure.
I'm not sure if you read my prior post but I'll take a stab at it again to help a fellow forum enthusiast.
The fluid that you put into the differential is the wrong kind!
I've owned a '97 Avalon as well and have the owners manual in front of me. For the fluid type in the differential it states to use Dex II or Dex III.
I'm not sure of the lasting effects of using 75w-90 differential fluid versus Dex type fluid and suggest you get forum members advice on the idea and call a reputable Toyota dealer for assistance. A great source on here is unDummy regarding transmissions.
A whining noise shows either an underlying problem or tells you to switch the brand of fluid you've used.
The fluid that you put into the differential is the wrong kind!
I've owned a '97 Avalon as well and have the owners manual in front of me. For the fluid type in the differential it states to use Dex II or Dex III.
I'm not sure of the lasting effects of using 75w-90 differential fluid versus Dex type fluid and suggest you get forum members advice on the idea and call a reputable Toyota dealer for assistance. A great source on here is unDummy regarding transmissions.
A whining noise shows either an underlying problem or tells you to switch the brand of fluid you've used.
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The Amsoil web site also lists using ATF in the front. diff. I would not use hypoid gear oil like 75W90.
I see that according to the manual you are right...however, I think they spec'd dex III just to make it easier on the parts guys, sort of how they spec ATF for some manual transmissions, even though gear oil is a better alternative. The whine is tremendously improved, however, so I'm gonna leave the gear oil in there.
Could be an expensive experiment using the icorrect oil.
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Originally Posted By: parimento1
I see that according to the manual you are right...however, I think they spec'd dex III just to make it easier on the parts guys, sort of how they spec ATF for some manual transmissions, even though gear oil is a better alternative. The whine is tremendously improved, however, so I'm gonna leave the gear oil in there.
Ummm, no, they spec ATF because that's what it's setup for. Try running gear oil in a WC T5 and see how long the synchro's last and how well it shifts.
If it calls for ATF, you put ATF in it. Who am I to second guess thousands of hours of R&D and millions of dollars in engineering?
You could put a BETTER ATF in it; I've had great luck with Mobil 1 ATF in both Ford power steering pumps and T5 transmissions. But deviating completely from the fluid type is not a smart move IMHO.
I see that according to the manual you are right...however, I think they spec'd dex III just to make it easier on the parts guys, sort of how they spec ATF for some manual transmissions, even though gear oil is a better alternative. The whine is tremendously improved, however, so I'm gonna leave the gear oil in there.
Ummm, no, they spec ATF because that's what it's setup for. Try running gear oil in a WC T5 and see how long the synchro's last and how well it shifts.
If it calls for ATF, you put ATF in it. Who am I to second guess thousands of hours of R&D and millions of dollars in engineering?
You could put a BETTER ATF in it; I've had great luck with Mobil 1 ATF in both Ford power steering pumps and T5 transmissions. But deviating completely from the fluid type is not a smart move IMHO.
By popular demand (and fear of mechanical failure) I drained the diff tonight and installed Mobil 1 ATF as per the manual. I looked at the magnet one the drain plug and only saw a few little specs of metal so I guess the gear oil didnt do anything bad in that short amount of time. However, with the transmission fluid in there I have peace of mind, and I had a few quarts of M1 laying around anyway so no biggie. Thanks guys!
Gear oils are acidic and can be corrosive to some metals, so you have to be careful to use them as advised. They also break down at lower temperatures than motor oils or ATF. Any harm could be chemical rather than abrasive - i.e. you might not find flakes of anything in the oil.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
High-sulfur gear oils only become acidic when water is introduced (via condensation or whatever). And even in such a situation... any corrosion would take some time.
Having gear oil in that diff. for a few days will do absolutely nothing.
Having gear oil in that diff. for a few days will do absolutely nothing.
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