Does anyone here use FP at other intervals other then using it at the every fill up instructions. I was thinking using FP at the shock dose of 2 oz per 5 gal. once a month. This way would use half the amount a month then by using it every tank ful. Do you think the shock dose would do just as good of a job at keeping the enigine clean? Is there harm in using a shock dose to often? Anyone on here that can comment on this or tell us other FP intervals they use other then the every tankful recommendation. I just don't see too much of a mpg increase to justify using FP every tankful and I am trying to conserve to last longer but at the same time keep my engine clean. thanks for the help.
Different FP Usage Intervals
- Thread starter SR77
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SR77, I suggest using a lower dosage but consistantly, every tank. Experiment to fine the "sweet spot" for your car and driving patterns.
1/2 ounce per 5 gallons is a good level on clean and well maintained diesels that Odis showed me in testing. Try that level every tank and watch/log the MPG readings. Periodic analysis in a well tuned engine can help me fine tune the level for you also. At least annual oil analysis is cheap insurance and allows a emperical look at that kind of thing.
Reasoning for the consistant loading of FP60 is that build up of varnish is slow and methodical. The current fuels lack solvency staying power and that effect is seen by the engine every time you run it.
FP60 was not designed to give max MPG as a primary aspect of chemistry, it was designed to clean and stabilize the fuel. Cleaning and lubricating at the same time. It does enhance the combustion process based on the chemical composition of the product but we are still quantifing that with a major independent lab test series.
My Honda 1.6 loves the stuff at 1/2 ounce per 5 gallons on regular gas but I hit it periodically with the 1 ounce load when I see mpg or nitration rise and all other variables are consistant.
Hope that helps.
1/2 ounce per 5 gallons is a good level on clean and well maintained diesels that Odis showed me in testing. Try that level every tank and watch/log the MPG readings. Periodic analysis in a well tuned engine can help me fine tune the level for you also. At least annual oil analysis is cheap insurance and allows a emperical look at that kind of thing.
Reasoning for the consistant loading of FP60 is that build up of varnish is slow and methodical. The current fuels lack solvency staying power and that effect is seen by the engine every time you run it.
FP60 was not designed to give max MPG as a primary aspect of chemistry, it was designed to clean and stabilize the fuel. Cleaning and lubricating at the same time. It does enhance the combustion process based on the chemical composition of the product but we are still quantifing that with a major independent lab test series.
My Honda 1.6 loves the stuff at 1/2 ounce per 5 gallons on regular gas but I hit it periodically with the 1 ounce load when I see mpg or nitration rise and all other variables are consistant.
Hope that helps.
Terry, thanks for the reply. I will give it a shot. The 1/2 oz recommendation will not be too diluted to be effective. Will it still do as advertised with the 1/2 oz. My driving changed quite often so its hard to get a read on if FP is actually doing anything for MPG but I atleast want to used it for everything else it does for the engine. Just want to make sure I am still getting whats its made for at the 1/2 oz dose. I will be sending for an analysis after my next oil change so i will be sure to mention how much FP and LC I used. thanks again for your help.
Hi Terry,
What dose would you recommend to get rid of stubborn combustion chamber deposits? I stuck a borescope in a plug hole over the weekend and my pistons look dark and rough, not smooth and shiny. Please see my post on the Mechanical board for more info:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=24&t=002300
What dose would you recommend to get rid of stubborn combustion chamber deposits? I stuck a borescope in a plug hole over the weekend and my pistons look dark and rough, not smooth and shiny. Please see my post on the Mechanical board for more info:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=24&t=002300
Kang, correct the primary cause of the deposits and if you "heard" a loud bang then you have problems internally.
Oil analysis should ID the issues without teardown.
FP at 1 ounce per 5 gallons and a one time LC piston soak is a good idea.
I think you may already have a damaged engine from the comments.
Good luck.
SR77 use analysis to know for sure and don't guess.
Oil analysis should ID the issues without teardown.
FP at 1 ounce per 5 gallons and a one time LC piston soak is a good idea.
I think you may already have a damaged engine from the comments.
Good luck.
SR77 use analysis to know for sure and don't guess.
JHZR2
Staff member
Interesting take on things... mpg increase pointing towards combustion issues.
However with nitration going higher, I guess its the NOx bit revisited.
JMH
Hi Terry,
Thanks for the info. I wish I knew what the cause of the deposits was. I thought it might be oil through the PCV line, but I put a catch can in the line and it didn’t catch anything. Plus, I don’t consume much oil at all. If a lot of oil was going into the intake, I’d have to top it up regularly, and I don’t. These flat 6’s are known to burn a bit of oil. I’m lucky to have one of the few that doesn’t burn much at all. Earlier versions of this motor had a reputation for fouling plugs if not kept above 4,000 revs. Maybe all my stop and go driving in traffic is to blame.
I thought about a piston soak. That would be difficult. First, because it’s a flat motor, the piston tops are vertical. If I put anything on them, it would just run down to the bottom of the cylinder. A certain amount would soak past the rings and into the oil. The solvent would go where I don’t want it to go, and it wouldn’t stay where I want it to stay. Also, a couple of the plugs on this engine are very inaccessible. I’m a DIY’er for most of this stuff, but I always pay a shop to replace these plugs, due to the PIA factor. The plugs are also way down below the valve cover, i.e. the plug boots are about 8 inches long, to get past the overhead cams. It would be almost impossible to get any solvent in the plug holes on the inaccessible plugs. Even the accessible plugs would be difficult.
I think I’ve ruled out any internal damage. I’ve put a couple hundred miles on the motor, and its running fine. There is no noticeable drop in mileage and power is fine. I think the bang was either inconsequential piston slap or a hydraulic lifter starved for oil. I think the bearings are OK. Perhaps they got some accelerated wear, but no damage. The engine idles perfectly smooth, with no bottom end noises or vibrations. The bottom end of these motors is pretty bullet proof. I believe the bottom end in my motor is the same as the bottom end in the 400+ HP turbo motors. People regularly bump those up to 450, even 500, with no changes to the bottom end. There is also a supercharger add-on for my normally aspirated motor that bumps HP to 350 or so with no changes to the bottom end.
If something happened to the valves, the motor wouldn’t run well at all.
I hope to do an oil analysis soon. I’ve been considering that for my own education anyways. Now I have even more of a reason to do it.
I have my FP on order and I’m just awaiting its arrival.
Thanks again,
Tom
Thanks for the info. I wish I knew what the cause of the deposits was. I thought it might be oil through the PCV line, but I put a catch can in the line and it didn’t catch anything. Plus, I don’t consume much oil at all. If a lot of oil was going into the intake, I’d have to top it up regularly, and I don’t. These flat 6’s are known to burn a bit of oil. I’m lucky to have one of the few that doesn’t burn much at all. Earlier versions of this motor had a reputation for fouling plugs if not kept above 4,000 revs. Maybe all my stop and go driving in traffic is to blame.
I thought about a piston soak. That would be difficult. First, because it’s a flat motor, the piston tops are vertical. If I put anything on them, it would just run down to the bottom of the cylinder. A certain amount would soak past the rings and into the oil. The solvent would go where I don’t want it to go, and it wouldn’t stay where I want it to stay. Also, a couple of the plugs on this engine are very inaccessible. I’m a DIY’er for most of this stuff, but I always pay a shop to replace these plugs, due to the PIA factor. The plugs are also way down below the valve cover, i.e. the plug boots are about 8 inches long, to get past the overhead cams. It would be almost impossible to get any solvent in the plug holes on the inaccessible plugs. Even the accessible plugs would be difficult.
I think I’ve ruled out any internal damage. I’ve put a couple hundred miles on the motor, and its running fine. There is no noticeable drop in mileage and power is fine. I think the bang was either inconsequential piston slap or a hydraulic lifter starved for oil. I think the bearings are OK. Perhaps they got some accelerated wear, but no damage. The engine idles perfectly smooth, with no bottom end noises or vibrations. The bottom end of these motors is pretty bullet proof. I believe the bottom end in my motor is the same as the bottom end in the 400+ HP turbo motors. People regularly bump those up to 450, even 500, with no changes to the bottom end. There is also a supercharger add-on for my normally aspirated motor that bumps HP to 350 or so with no changes to the bottom end.
If something happened to the valves, the motor wouldn’t run well at all.
I hope to do an oil analysis soon. I’ve been considering that for my own education anyways. Now I have even more of a reason to do it.
I have my FP on order and I’m just awaiting its arrival.
Thanks again,
Tom
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