Difference in Motul 300 and Motul 7100?

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Both are listed as Ester. I'm running 7100 in my Can Am now and not ready yet for a UOA, but looking to the next oil change, am wondering if the 300 is likely to shear less in a shared clutch/gear box machine?
 
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The 300 is their most stout formula. It will probably be more stable but the best way to tell is to run the 300V and get it analyzed. It's possible that it would be overkill and be a case of diminishing returns in your bike -- hard to say until you get it analyzed.
 
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300V is streetable race oil. Extremely resilient. Whether it'll do better than the 7100 is another question. As dparm said, you could be at the point of diminishing returns. What kind of UOA are you going to do?
 
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Both are great oils, but 7100 is more for street use. Apparently 300V do not contain same levels of detergents so it's not suitable for longer oil drain intervals. It's no doubt better for track days, racing, etc.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
re: 300v You want tons of moly in a wet clutch? I don't think so.
The CAR Motul 300v has far more moly, than the Motorcycle Motul 300v 4T oil. In terms of how my highly modified shared-sump bike runs, I prefer the Motul 300v 4T oil, over every other oil I've tried. Redline M/C oil is a close second.
 

tc1446

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Originally Posted By: d00df00d
300V is streetable race oil. Extremely resilient. Whether it'll do better than the 7100 is another question. As dparm said, you could be at the point of diminishing returns. What kind of UOA are you going to do?
I plan to send a WIX sample of the 7100 (4L 10-40, 1L 20-50) to ALS Labs when I reach 4K on it. Have about another 1000 miles to go with 12K on the Can Am now. The only way any previous brand of synthetic has maintained acceptable viscosity at 4K in my motor is to add a quart of 20-50 to the 10-40. However, another Cam Am rider with identical motor, on another forum, recently tested Mobil 1 4T 10-40 with just over 6000 miles on it and the viscosity was a high 30W, which I would never have expected. I might give it a try on my next change.
 
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Why not email the help dept asking which they recommend for that torquey 1330 inline triple in your new Can Am? That's what I did when trying to figure out which Silkolene product for my Duc. Tech rep recommended their less expensive Pro 4 for street instead of their Pro 4 Plus.
 

tc1446

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LoneRanger, I see your point, but I've tested a variety of oils already and none held up to, or past, 4000 miles without the viscosity shearing down to the point that the lab gave it a yellow caution flag. At this point, I'm just experimenting with diff oils to see what works best, in terms of viscosity holding up, mainly to see if I can get past the 4000 mile mark. Even plain ole Dino Rotella T held up fairly well to 3000, and with a quart of 20-50 thrown in, Amsoil and Valvoline Syn makes it to 4000 easily. Castrol Blend, even with the quart of heavier oil, was the big loser as it [censored] out at 2000 mi. I'm anticipating that the current fill of Motul 7100 will do OK at 4000 and was curious to know if the 300 would likely be a better choice as its only a few bucks more per 4L. I do like the RED oil....it shows up better on the dip stick.LOL.
 
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300V is the only oil I remember seeing that didn't shear thinner in a shared sump bike in a UOA here on bitog over a normal street oil change interval. Anyway if it lasts you much longer than 7100 maybe it's worth the extra cost? Not saying it will. But it might.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
re: 300v You want tons of moly in a wet clutch? I don't think so.
The 4T oil is made for a shared sump bike,and to be honest I've seen many guys using oils with moly in their shared sump bikes and no clutch problems. A few guys I ride with are using M1 15w-50 in their metric shared sump bikes and nary a clutch issue,so the moly issue seems to be overblown. Mos2 will cause a clutch problem,I've seen that for myself however organic moly seems to be less of an issue.
 
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Just an interesting thought, Mobil 1 10W-40 (MX4t) motorcycle oil has exactly the same specifications as the 300V. 160 VI, 40/100C viscosities, and so on. I'd guess they have very much similar base stocks. In fact, I would not be surprised if the base stock is sourced from the same place...
 
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
Just an interesting thought, Mobil 1 10W-40 (MX4t) motorcycle oil has exactly the same specifications as the 300V. 160 VI, 40/100C viscosities, and so on. I'd guess they have very much similar base stocks. In fact, I would not be surprised if the base stock is sourced from the same place...
I side with this. IMO there's nothing magical about Motul 300V and I doubt they know something about oil that the other top tier producers don't.
 
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
Just an interesting thought, Mobil 1 10W-40 (MX4t) motorcycle oil has exactly the same specifications as the 300V. 160 VI, 40/100C viscosities, and so on. I'd guess they have very much similar base stocks. In fact, I would not be surprised if the base stock is sourced from the same place...
They may have the same specs, and maybe the base stock is even sourced from the same place. But in my experience, they do not perform the same. I have no special allegiance to Motul, I just use whatever performs best. In fact, I can get a very good deal on Redline oil, but I still choose the Motul 300V 4T. YMMV
 
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If I remember right 300v is a group 5 synthetic Mobil 1 is not. 300V Very good stuff. I have spent some time talking to the Motul Rep at a couple motorcycle conventions. For street use he recommended the 7100.
 
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some specs can easily be "propped up" viscosity index is one! finished oil blends with more viscosity improvers can look good when tested new, down the road is another story! pour point is another, with more pour point depressants making a cheaper-lesser base oil look better! HTHS + Noack on the other hand are not easily "faked". switched from mostly amsoil since they downgraded from all PAO's prolly with ester, now using all Redline with great results but may try Motul 7100 with its comparative pricing. i never had an analysis but looking at the oil + shifting quality is good for me.
 
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As long as the motul 300v is 4T variant, be confident to use on motorbike. they have tested for wet clutch compatibility provided your bike use the same standard, e.g. ma, mb. I dont see how motul 7100 can be compared with 300v, it is just too much difference. When i use motul 7100 on my small honda 90 cc that has 700 ml shared sump, it is just very obvious the oil will break down within 2500 km, where the manufacturer recommended mineral oil will break down around 1500km, and the oe interval is 2000 km. So far with 300v,the acceleration and shifting is still perfect after 2500 km.
 
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