Did I add too much lubegard to my atf.

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If your issue is between shifts, that is not torque converter shudder you're experiencing. To my knowledge shudder only occurs during the lock up phase of the converter which is usually around 45-60mph and light throttle input.

If you're experiencing a thud or shudder during 1-2 or 2-3 upshifts, that is clutch plates and/or bands or possible servo and solenoid issues. No additive will fix that, only mask it.
 
Originally Posted by JUSTINPULV
I'm kind of at a loss as to why I'm having issues with such low miles and routine maintenance being performed.

A few comments....
1) Fluids, be they engine oil or ATF or whatever aren't magical, prevent-all-failures liquids. You could have changed the ATF every 5k miles and have a failure still occur.
2) Most automakers recommend against flushing ATF. They just want drain-and-fills done.
3) You contacted the manufacturer of the additive you used and don't like their answer and think you'll get a more accurate answer here ? What do you want people here to tell you ? My suggestion was - and this was only to alleviate your concerns - to drain the fluid and refill. This time either without Lubegard or with the "proper" amount. Well, my first thought was, "do nothing" actually. It seems to have done the job !
 
Originally Posted by oldhp
If it's shifting ok you fixed it. 2oz's more ain't gunna hurt anything to me.
I agree. Pour 2 ounces of milk in a cup. Now, set that cup next to 2 gallon-size milk jugs. Empty out 1/4 of one to be perfectly accurate. That's the ratio of "extra" Lubegard involved here.
 
Originally Posted by millerbl00
I have had two Highlanders. Both did the same thing. Using Amsoil ATF now. It helped a lot but still there...


My 04 Highlander had a shudder on the 1-2 shift for 165,000 miles until I sold it, perhaps once every 100 miles. I tried everything, Mobil 1, Maxlife, Lubeguard red. Nothing made any difference. I just got used to it. Most people would never notice it. Never got worse, never got better. Seemed like it happened more when hot.

In that auto the torque converter only locked in 3rd and 4th, so not a factor. I would assume the OP's 4 speed Aisin is similar, but I don't know.
 
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Originally Posted by bepperb
Originally Posted by millerbl00
I have had two Highlanders. Both did the same thing. Using Amsoil ATF now. It helped a lot but still there...


My 04 Highlander had a shudder on the 1-2 shift for 165,000 miles until I sold it, perhaps once every 100 miles. I tried everything, Mobil 1, Maxlife, Lubeguard red. Nothing made any difference. I just got used to it. Most people would never notice it. Never got worse, never got better. Seemed like it happened more when hot.

In that auto the torque converter only locked in 3rd and 4th, so not a factor. I would assume the OP's 4 speed Aisin is similar, but I don't know.




Yes this was exactly what I experienced. Amsoil ATF did help some
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by oldhp
If it's shifting ok you fixed it. 2oz's more ain't gunna hurt anything to me.
I agree. Pour 2 ounces of milk in a cup. Now, set that cup next to 2 gallon-size milk jugs. Empty out 1/4 of one to be perfectly accurate. That's the ratio of "extra" Lubegard involved here.


He added 6oz of shudder fix not Lubeguard red at 3X the recommended dose, these are two totally different products. take a gallon of clear and and a few ounces of hardener and its going off fast alone neither will harden enough to be usable.
2oz may be enough to cause the needed reaction with the ATF, 6oz may be causing some issues I don't know. It is a concentrated friction modifier. Here is what Lubeguard says..

Quote
When used as directed, Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx will safely prevent Torque Converter shudder. If the TORQUE CONVERTER shudder returns one more treatment may be added. Do not use the Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx again unless you change the fluid completely.
 
Anytime I added Lubeguard Red -- the more miles I drove -- the better the transmission would react. Of course, you transmission has to be full also.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
He added 6oz of shudder fix not Lubeguard red...


Ahhh, I see. The way it was written is I thought 'shudder fix' was just one of the variations of their ATF additive. Sounds like this stuff is substantially different that the stuff I read about here.
 
Oh yeah this stuff is a super concentrated friction modifier, I have used Lubeguard red at 2oz per qt (Lubeguard says no problem) at times when a varnished valve body is suspected but have always been a little leery of this one.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Oh yeah this stuff is a super concentrated friction modifier, I have used Lubeguard red at 2oz per qt (Lubeguard says no problem) at times when a varnished valve body is suspected but have always been a little leery of this one.


I've never used the shudder fix before, So I have zero data or an opinion......But with any product, Use as directed! Like you.....I would like to hear MolaKule's input on this!!

Originally Posted by JUSTINPULV
2009 toyota corolla.
Very minor shutter I was thinking it could be a stuck valve body as well?
It goes into the next gear a bit rougher then it should.
Kind of with a slightly noticeable thud.
My diagnosis as shudder could be wrong but I don't know what else to refer to it as?
It only occurs at low speeds between the 1-2 only under 1500 rpms.
Transmission has been flushed twice in its lifetime.
I'm kind of at a loss as to why I'm having issues with such low miles and routine maintenance being performed.


You have a Aisin U341E, These unit don't give many problems outside of Lock-Up valve/solenoid performance issues & those don't usually crop-up 'til well after 100,000 miles.

Without test driving your car.....It's difficult to give a proper path to follow! Here are some basics for Harsh 1-2 Shifts & Not as harsh 2-3 shifts at low speeds.
*Make sure your car has the LATEST software/calibration installed...Someone already mentioned this but I feel the need to reiterate as this is VERY important especially with 2009 being the first year of the 2ZR-FE/U341E combination!!
*Check Line Pressure! If it's too high.....That could cause this issue, The 1-2 will be the firmest as the largest ratio spread is 1st to 2nd.

***As a note......I have been running TES-295 ATF in my U341E since around 60,000 & has 111,xxx miles on it now.....Me & the wife like it better than Toyota WS. It was always (In my opinion) a superior replacement for the previous spec T-IV in Aisin 4 speeds.
 
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Related...

What exactly does lubeguard do? I ask this as someone who's quite skeptical of additives and under the opinion that most have a tradeoff. While one aspect may be improved, it comes at the expense of another




I am in agreement with you here. I see no benefit of adding LG to a fully formulated synthetic ATF.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Related...

What exactly does lubeguard do? I ask this as someone who's quite skeptical of additives and under the opinion that most have a tradeoff. While one aspect may be improved, it comes at the expense of another




I am in agreement with you here. I see no benefit of adding LG to a fully formulated synthetic ATF.


As Trav said, use LubeGard Red only if you suspect varnishing in a transmissions that has not been maintained or abused, such as 100,000 mile fluid changes.

Never put in a friction modifier or an ATF supplement that has more friction modification in it.

ATF conversion fluids are also a no no.

The first thing I recommend is (if you're doing this yourself) is to do at least three drains and spills and changing the transmission filter if it has one.

If you cannot do it yourself, have your mechanic or a friend who knows how, do a complete changeout using the cooler lines.

If fluid changeout doesn't fix it, have a tranny shop check the various line pressures to determine if the fluid pump is worn and leaking, or if there is a stuck solenoid. A stuck solenoid cold be varnish related and that is the only time I would recommend adding LubeGard Red.
 
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Thanks for the input Mola, It sounds like bad stuff. I would probably do a line off exchange, clean the pan and change the filter then refill with some good fluid that meets the correct spec.
 
I know this is kind of an old thread and I am late to the party but do people realize that the more firm/crisp the shift is (to a point - as long as its not jarring enough to damage hard parts or CV joints etc.) the longer the clutch packs should last in the transmission? I get the feeling the only reason the op asked is that he's afraid of premature failure. Nobody mentioned to him that a firm shift doesn't mean impending failure. People pay good money to install a shift kit in the valve body for these firmer shifts especially if they're going to be racing or run hard.
 
I have used LG Red in every A/T I've had in the past 20 years (as a PM)....and I've never had an issue. It is supposed to increase the ability of the ATF to combat HEAT....which is "the leading cause of transmission failure".........
 
Originally Posted by pbm
I have used LG Red in every A/T I've had in the past 20 years (as a PM)....and I've never had an issue. It is supposed to increase the ability of the ATF to combat HEAT....which is "the leading cause of transmission failure".........


I too have used LG Red for many years and have NEVER had a negative reaction in any way shape or form. This is a tried and true additive that is not only for correcting an issue but also for preventative maintenance. With a good trans fluid temp gauge we have documented 10-20* cooler trans temps on various vehicles. I used to have a good friend who was an auto trans rebuilder, owned a professional shop and was highly regarded. He would send every trans he built with a bottle of LG Red.
 
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