Purchase a new 2010 CTS with 51 miles. The Oil Life Monitor stated that oil life was 44%. The car was on the dealer's lot for 9 months, so length of time was a factor. The dealer said they would change the oil, so I took it in at 780 miles (3 weeks later) and the OLM was at 37 %. After the oil change the OLM was 100%, but dropped to 99% in a couple of miles. Switched the Display to something else, but at 900 miles checked the OLM and it is now at 75% and holding steady for the last 100 miles.. I think the dealer just reset the OLM and never changed the oil. I am scheduled to revisit the dealer in 2 weeks to address this (new oil change and I will watch). How can I determine if the 1st oil change was not done? The oil filter is a canister type on top of the engine and the 24mm nut had no signs of a socket being on it. Possibly the factory filter may be different than whatever the dealer stocks. Should I retain some of the used oil for analysis and can they tell if the oil has 1100 miles on it instead of 200 miles.
Did dealer change the oil
- Thread starter ts27330
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The oil monitor does not actually analyze the oil. It uses a computer algorithm and calculates oil life based on your driving habits. Regardless of whether the dealer changed the oil or not, the oil monitor would still perform the same and give you the results you have now.
Two ways that I can think of, though neither are real reliable: color and a used oil analysis. New oil will almost always have a lighter/clearer color than old oil, but the old oil in this case is only 780 miles old. It may or may not have looked different from the oil that went in. If you know the color changed, that would be a pretty good indication that the oil was changed.
And a used oil analysis...I'm sure that the original oil would look different on a used oil analysis than the first replacement fill, but without a baseline, it'd be near impossible to tell if a used oil analysis you take today "looks" like original oil or not. If you know what oil they were supposed to put in (do they use Mobil 1 or some other bulk?), you might could tell based on the additive package if the oil in the used oil analysis is what they say they use. If they stock bulk Valvoline SynPower, but the used oil analysis looks like Mobil 1, you could have an indication that the oil that's in the engine isn't what they would have installed.
And a used oil analysis...I'm sure that the original oil would look different on a used oil analysis than the first replacement fill, but without a baseline, it'd be near impossible to tell if a used oil analysis you take today "looks" like original oil or not. If you know what oil they were supposed to put in (do they use Mobil 1 or some other bulk?), you might could tell based on the additive package if the oil in the used oil analysis is what they say they use. If they stock bulk Valvoline SynPower, but the used oil analysis looks like Mobil 1, you could have an indication that the oil that's in the engine isn't what they would have installed.
Yes, but there is no way it should go from 100% down to 75% in 100 miles of driving. Average outside temp around 65 degrees, mostly highway miles, probably cranked the engine 20 times in 7 days.
Chances are the dealer never even changed the oil and reset the oil life monitor. Chances are you never will prove it and if you did, it would take so much effort and no one but you would care. I am a big believer in doing your own oil changes for sooooo many reasons. This actually happened to me. We have a Lincoln, that had a 40,000 miles service agreement, I took it in for oil changes, no problems, I took it in for its 30,000 transmission service and got back what i thought was still dirty and smelly transmission fluid on the stick and still dirty undisturbed transmission pan bolts(they should at least wipe them off, but really how many people actually get down and look). I called them and questioned them and they assured me they did it and had record of it and if there were any problems, I would be covered. At 60,000 miles I did the transmission service myself and the little yellow assemble plug, fell out in the pan from the factory, imagine that. Would have it did any good to take it down the dealership and say here, I caught you guys, no, they would have said sorry or that manager is no longer here. My best advice to you, change it yourself or find a dealership you trust.Regardless, even if it wasnt changed, it wont be the end of the world and as maintence concerned as you appear to be by this event, your car will last much longer than you probably care to drive it.
It must be that newer "OLM" algorithm. 100-75% in a few minutes. 75%-0% in 3k-8k depending on driving style
If its something that actually bothered you psychologically and you want the peace of mind, TAKE IT TO AN INDEPENDENT SHOP and have the oil/filter changed with OLM reset... and keep driving.
Life is too short to worry about it. Since you own a relatively new and not so cheap vehicle, you can afford the OCI without worry!
If its something that actually bothered you psychologically and you want the peace of mind, TAKE IT TO AN INDEPENDENT SHOP and have the oil/filter changed with OLM reset... and keep driving.
Life is too short to worry about it. Since you own a relatively new and not so cheap vehicle, you can afford the OCI without worry!
I agree with Panzerman, they probably reset the OLM and called it a day.
Good point. They have agreed to a 2nd oil change ( I will definitely watch) and then do my own changes after this (Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic). I will do it at around 50% OLM or 4500 miles which ever comes first.
You guys are totally missing the point. The OLM has NO WAY of knowing how old the oil is. If they actually changed the oil, the OLM will STILL behave the exact same way. If you think the OLM has gone down way too fast, then there's a problem with the OLM. It has nothing to do with whether they actually changed the oil or not.
Originally Posted By: ts27330
Yes, but there is no way it should go from 100% down to 75% in 100 miles of driving. Average outside temp around 65 degrees, mostly highway miles, probably cranked the engine 20 times in 7 days.
Perhaps so, but as stated prior, it wouldn't be because the dealer reset the OLM without changing the oil. I would monitor the OLM after the next change (and after it's reset) and track how quickly it falls (with miles and time) and see if anything seems to influence it (number of cold starts, etc).
Yes, but there is no way it should go from 100% down to 75% in 100 miles of driving. Average outside temp around 65 degrees, mostly highway miles, probably cranked the engine 20 times in 7 days.
Perhaps so, but as stated prior, it wouldn't be because the dealer reset the OLM without changing the oil. I would monitor the OLM after the next change (and after it's reset) and track how quickly it falls (with miles and time) and see if anything seems to influence it (number of cold starts, etc).
I don't know about other manufacturers, but the Ford factory installed filters are easily identified and NOT the same as any filter available to a dealer. My first oil change on a new Fusion was a dealer freebie done early (similar to your scenario). The first thing I did after arriving home was to inspect the filter to confirm that (1) it was the correct filter and (2) the factory filter had been replaced.
You might want to inspect a new vehicle's filter to see if it's any different from the filter installed on your CTS.
You might want to inspect a new vehicle's filter to see if it's any different from the filter installed on your CTS.
I would put your initials on the oil filter and put some colorful paint on the oil drain plug. Then check it before you leave the dealership. Watch them if you can but sometimes it is not possible.
Had a friend take his car in for a new trans under warrenty, He tied a red string around the trans before he took it in. After the service he had them put it back on the lift and sure enough the string was sting was still there. No new trans.
Had a friend take his car in for a new trans under warrenty, He tied a red string around the trans before he took it in. After the service he had them put it back on the lift and sure enough the string was sting was still there. No new trans.
You could do a business card, or blotter, oil test now. Then do another at a comparable number of miles into the next oil change. Judge if they are similar or not. See https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/59788/
Originally Posted By: ts27330
Purchase a new 2010 CTS with 51 miles.
Congrats on that purchase! I test drove a CTS last month and loved it, but decided the rear seat didn't quite accommodate my family. Anyhow, if you just bought a ~$40K CTS, why anguish over $15 worth of oil? I fully understand your frustration with the principle of it, but here is a simple remedy. Drain the oil, keeping the filter on, and refill with a jug from WalMart. Even if they did change it out, consider it a $15 flush of a new engine. Enjoy that CTS ride!
Purchase a new 2010 CTS with 51 miles.
Congrats on that purchase! I test drove a CTS last month and loved it, but decided the rear seat didn't quite accommodate my family. Anyhow, if you just bought a ~$40K CTS, why anguish over $15 worth of oil? I fully understand your frustration with the principle of it, but here is a simple remedy. Drain the oil, keeping the filter on, and refill with a jug from WalMart. Even if they did change it out, consider it a $15 flush of a new engine. Enjoy that CTS ride!
Just going from memory, the original GM filters are black. I've never seen an aftermarket Delco that color. I always assumed that was their version of a lie detector.
Originally Posted By: tgw323
Just going from memory, the original GM filters are black. I've never seen an aftermarket Delco that color. I always assumed that was their version of a lie detector.
In this case, though, its a cartridge filter. Not a metal can.
Just going from memory, the original GM filters are black. I've never seen an aftermarket Delco that color. I always assumed that was their version of a lie detector.
In this case, though, its a cartridge filter. Not a metal can.
I believe the factory GM oil filters(spin ons) are blue, not black. The spin ons that are GM oil filters that are black are a new design on some high end gm cars. Read about it in a gm magazine parts man gave me other day.
Be careful about how long you run the oil in these DI engined cars. There should be a recall on reprogramming the OLM to do sooner oil change intervals so check to see if that was done. Many people here have done UOA with high fuel, low flash point, and low 20 grade viscosity results after only 3-4k miles.
Regardless of OLM technology I wouldnt truely follow them. Do a recommended OCI and get a used oil analysis and pay for the TBN fee. 4.5k on M1 sounds like a waste of good oil.
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