Diagnosing AC Failure 2007 Honda Fit

[ltslimjim]

Vehicle: 2007 Honda Fit Sport AT Hey guys, it's been a while but I'm back with a new AC problem. A couple of years ago the relay for the compressor went bad and replacing that got it back working. Now, the AC just completely failed while driving the other day. The compressor pulley spin w/ belt, but clutch does not attempt to engage. So far: Jumpering the relay does not activate the coil. While jumpered, there is no magnetism...or a very very weak one at best. A multimeter revealed battery voltage to the connector. However, the clutch will not turn by hand despite AC being off. Is this a seized compressor and broken coil? Would a low charge, failed switch, or thermal protector prevent the clutch from turning by hand while engine is off? Obviously, I can't get pressure readings while the system won't run. I am limited on diagnostic tools at the moment but also don't want to just throw parts at it. I'm not aware if this pressure switch is the kind that will self-seal. I may need a mechanic but seeking advice first. Uploading photos of clutch plate removed:

 

[ltslimjim]

Also tested: Resistance on pressure switch (4 ohms) Continuity from battery to AC relay (good) Continuity from relay to compressor connection (good) Rotation on compressor (could not rotate by hand or with a tool)

 

[Chris142]

The compressor seized. Overheated the coil until it got an open circuit. I see it daily. Time for a complete rebuild including a condenser.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted by Chris142

The compressor seized. Overheated the coil until it got an open circuit. I see it daily. Time for a complete rebuild including a condenser.

Figured. Well, thanks for confirming. Are there any parts I can skip? Which parts are essential other than what you mentioned? I would need a shop to do the job obviously. I used one for years that lets me use my own parts but this is my first AC repair with them. I would hope they don't have to dig into the dash for evap parts. Trying to minimize some of the labor without compromising new parts. So, new condenser and the receiver/drier at minimum? Thinking of a Denso condenser and a Nissen compressor. RA has them both. By the way, the existing condenser already has missing fins. Come to find out, they are very susceptible to any road debris as Honda didn't make these with a guard/screen inside the grill.

 

[Chris142]

There are no short cuts in AC repair. Any leftover debris will go right into the compressor and destroy the new one. Now you have 2 failures to clean up.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted by Chris142

There are no short cuts in AC repair. Any leftover debris will go right into the compressor and destroy the new one. Now you have 2 failures to clean up.

Is there a method to flushing the system of debris properly?

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted by ltslimjim

Originally Posted by Chris142

There are no short cuts in AC repair. Any leftover debris will go right into the compressor and destroy the new one. Now you have 2 failures to clean up.

Is there a method to flushing the system of debris properly?

Basically open every connection. Don't forget to remove the expansion valve as you can not flush through it.

 

[antonmnster]

And don't make the mistake I did and not flush the lines after changing everything. The compressor debris immediately plugged up the new condenser.

 

[Probass1947]

Parallel flow condensers are just about impossible to flush

 

[Probass1947]

Compressors are an entire chapter, add oil, turn with special spanner wrench, then install