Delo 15w40 LE 2002 Camaro Z28

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
31
Location
Colbert, WA
I got this sample done because I found an air leak between the filter and the MAF early last summer. This is 4 qts Delo 15w40 LE and 2 qts Delo 5w40. Oil was changed in October, 2008, and sat all winter. I put it away for the winter October 31, 2009, so there is one year and 2806 miles on the oil. Total mileage is 29547.

No makeup oil. I used a Napa Gold oil filter.

Aluminum 3
Chromium 1
Iron 6
Copper 31
Lead 2
Tin 2
Molybdenum 55
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 2
Boron 250
Silicon 11
Sodium 3
Calcium 2320
Magnesium 216
Phosphorus 1090
Zinc 1386
Barium 0

Viscosity 70.1 SUS / 12.97 cSt at 100C
Flashpoint 410F
Fuel Antifreeze 0%
Water 0%
Insolubles 0.3%

Refilled with Delo 5w40 LE synthetic.
 
Oil was changed in October, 2008, and sat all winter. I put it away for the winter October 31, 2009, so there is one year and 2806 miles on the oil. Total mileage is 29547
 
Should have an LS-1, unless he is running something like an LS6 or 7
20.gif
Basically the same type of engine with some varying changes for more HP.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Boron is what makes it "LE"?


It is called "LE", or Low Emissions, due to the reduced Zinc and Phosphorous.
 
I think the low emissions for the CJ-4 spec relate to sulfated ash levels, sulfur, and the ability to protect diesels running low sulfur fuel. Phosphorous content is still 1200 ppm max, and they can get away with that using lower ash content ZDDP. But sulfated ash has been reduce to 1% max.
 
There is no such thing as lower ash content type of ZDDP. The ash formed during combustion of every type of ZDDP is solely related to the zinc concentration in the oil. There are lower volatility ZDDP types but that is not tested in API CJ-4.

Low emission additive packages in HDEOs generally refers to limiting SAPS which is sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur. Metals in additives contribute to the sulfated ash, while the phosphorus is self-explanatory, and sulfur can come from base oils and additives.
 
Report looks good. Si is elevated, but it didn't cause any problems. Copper is typical for these engines, especially with low mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieJ
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Boron is what makes it "LE"?


It is called "LE", or Low Emissions, due to the reduced Zinc and Phosphorous.


That's what I mean, the Boron is the signature since it's substituted for Z and P.
 
I believe that was the best UOA I've seen in a long time for a GM v-8
not knocking GM-I have 3 of their V8's in the house 5.3, LT1, & an LS6


Steve
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
I believe that was the best UOA I've seen in a long time for a GM v-8
not knocking GM-I have 3 of their V8's in the house 5.3, LT1, & an LS6


Steve


Is it one of the best? This one looks good, but I ask because I posted a similar question in the PCMO forum a few days asking if anyone knew if thicker HDEO lowered the copper levels for LSx engines. I tought this UOA looked like a lot of ones ran with various brands of synthetic 5W30 SM, so I'm not sure if the HDEO gave lower copper readings or not.
 
This is the LS1. I have been using Delo for the past five years or so based on information from this site. This car gets driven hard occasionally. The short mileage due to the fact it only sees 3-4000 k miles in the summer. The only reason I did an analysis this time was because of the air leak. The last analysis was several years ago.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post247876

The only special care I take with the car is that I take it easy until it comes up to temperature. Although there is no oil temperature guage, I know what my hot oil idle pressure should be (45 psi), so I don't get on it until it is idling at 45 psi.

I am no expert, but I think it is hard to beat the high HTHS of an HDEO for the price.
 
In another thread they discuss the phosphorous in the zinc being the main anti wear component. Why increase Zinc and lower the phosphorous for ? Detergent or anti corrosion ?
 
I think your UOA looks pretty good. Last year I averaged the wear per 1k miles for the common hdeo's (rotella, rotella syn, delo, schaeffers, amsoil). Delo appears to do better in regards to wear than rotella and rotella syn, even when it shears. Amsoil shears less but that doesnt seem to reduce wear compared to Delo. Schaeffers may bring your numbers down a little, and I'm surprised its not recommended more on this site. It isnt exotic oil, doesnt smell like gummy bears, and isnt purple, but from the data Ive seen I believe it to be one of the best HDEO oils available. Gm V-8's make great testbeds for oil because of their high CU numbers which help to offset analytical noise. When I was younger I had a Camaro and I loved that car, but GM V-8's use copper like a drunken plumber. I believe GM is willing to sacrifice some metal by increasing component loading, instead of increasing surface area. This slightly improves mileage and power to the wheels, while still allowing the typical motor to last over 150k miles. Parasitic losses can still be reduced while providing a given output in engine design and manufacturing, but this adds complexity and cost, and may not be a viable option given the price point they hope to achieve. Thats why Chevys cost less than Bmw's, but still last long enough to keep the average American consumer happy. Although given their decreasing market share, the consumer seems a little less happy than in the past.
 
I forgot to mention how nice and low your Fe numbers are! For a year of use I would have expected more oxidation. Many believe that non synthetics provide better protection during periods of non use, and your UOA supports that in my opinion. On the other hand, Redline falls short when used infrequently in steamy climates, due to the polyol polar affinity. On the other hand, it is one of the most thermally stable oils i've seen, and Im not aware of any other oil that resists shearing/thickening as well. Their love of Moly can cause higher soft metal numbers via chemical erosion, but doesnt appear to have any negative consequences. On the plus side, if you have fe bearing contact, that moly does a great job of keeping them apart, better in my opinion than zinc which doesnt achieve max protection until it is burnished, but then you just sacrificed a little metal achieving a burnish. By the time the internal combustion engine becomes obsolete, they may develop a motor oil that excels in all areas. I am pretty happy with current technology though, and the more I learn about motor oil, the more Im aware of what I dont know.

Take care and enjoy that V-8 muscle!
 
reminds me of a friend who always ran 40wt in his camaro. i guess this is one piece of evidence for thicker oil not causing increased wear until warmed up. we know it has increased hot protection.

also, i thought LS1s took 5qts of oil. why 6? also i think your hot oil psi should be around 20. 45 psi is like when it's cold, or maybe it just takes your 40wt longer to get up to temp. what is the idle psi after 30 min of driving?
 
The Z28 supposedly takes 5.5 quarts, but six brings it up to full on the dipstick. Hot idle oil pressure is 45 psi. Hot being full throttle runs on a 100 degree day after the car has been running for 20 minutes. I guess that really didn't answer your question. But, 45 psi after long highway trips or bouncing around town. Cold idle is usually in the 60 psi range. The pressure relief is about 70 psi.
 
i have some friends w/ LS1s but i forget to look at their hot idle oil pressure. my LT1 cold idles around 50 and hot idle is 19 psi on 5 or 10W-30 after about 20 min in 75 F ambient. i used to run a 160 F stat but switched back to the stock 190 and i'm glad i did
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom