Delayed Engagement (transmission issue)

[tookien]

Hello,

On my Saab 9-7x (2007 4.2L), a couple of months ago I had a automatic transmission leak (due to rusted cooler line).

Most if not all the fluid had leaked out while driving and I suppose some internal damage may have been incurred.

I replaced the lines and topped off the trans fluid, but it's now starting to show (sometimes) some slight signs of delayed engagement (pressing gas pedal has about a half to one second delay before actually moving), noticed on first and second gear. The gears all shift normally otherwise.

I notice the trans fluid, even though it's relatively new, is a little bit brownish in color. I assume that the new fluid mixed in with the old so it isn't ideal.

After some research I've come to two options that may help:

1) changing and/or flushing the trans fluid, and using synthetic transmission fluid as well as Lucas anti-slip help in this situation?

(although, a flush is not recommended since metallic debris could get into sensitive areas, so I'm thinking simply a trans change by removing and cleaning the pan, replacing the filter etc...)

2) reprogramming computer

are these options worth trying or has the damage been done?
any other recommendations?

Thanks for any help, appreciate it!

 

[Brybo86]

Change it a few times with a cheap approved fluid, like supertech or maxlife.... before you spend big buck$$

 

[tookien]

Thanks for the response.

Do you recommend changing over flushing?

 

[CT8]

How was the transmission fluid color before the leak?

 

[clinebarger]

1) It got ran out of ATF while driving. 4L60E's don't take it well.

2) You Burned Frictions!

It delays engagement in Forward, Reverse, Both (Garage Shift)?

Or do you have a Slip/Cutloose during a shift? 1-2 2-3 3-4??

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: tookien
Thanks for the response.

Do you recommend changing over flushing?



Yes! Flushing at high mileage has often done bad things to transmissions. Yours may have been damaged with no fluid in it; in your place I'd do several pan drop and fluid exchanges until the fluid looks new.

 

[Oro_O]

A simple line "flush" via the cooler lines using the internal pump to evacuate the fluid can't harm anything. And it's better to get all good fluid in than to keep mixing it with known bad fluid. It's better to do that at once instead of several drain/fills.

I think you'll find what clinebarger said to be the case, burned frictions that won't heal themselves. Smelling the fluid is also quite indicative.

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: clinebarger
1) It got ran out of ATF while driving. 4L60E's don't take it well.

2) You Burned Frictions!

It delays engagement in Forward, Reverse, Both (Garage Shift)?

Or do you have a Slip/Cutloose during a shift? 1-2 2-3 3-4??


Thanks for the response.

From P to D then while pressing gas there is that slight delay, before it kicks in and moves (if I press the gas hard it will be more pronounced, a sort of "click" happens when it engages).

I'm not sure about reverse.

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: tookien
Thanks for the response.

Do you recommend changing over flushing?



Yes! Flushing at high mileage has often done bad things to transmissions. Yours may have been damaged with no fluid in it; in your place I'd do several pan drop and fluid exchanges until the fluid looks new.


Thanks for the response.

The car has about 130K on it (80,000 miles).

In this case I imagine it's okay to do the flush as well, even after the incident with the leak?

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: Or
A simple line "flush" via the cooler lines using the internal pump to evacuate the fluid can't harm anything. And it's better to get all good fluid in than to keep mixing it with known bad fluid. It's better to do that at once instead of several drain/fills.

I think you'll find what clinebarger said to be the case, burned frictions that won't heal themselves. Smelling the fluid is also quite indicative.



I assume that in this case, even after the fluid change/flush and possible additives (lucas etc...), the transmission is a lost cause and is bound to get worse?

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: tookien



I assume that in this case, even after the fluid change/flush and possible additives (lucas etc...), the transmission is a lost cause and is bound to get worse?


Probably... BUT - it's worth a shot to try. If you can do so easily, drop the pan and clean it out and see what's in there. Refill it and then disconnect the cooler return line and empty it 3 qts at a time, refilling after each. After swapping the fluid volume of the transmission (~12qts), check the fill volume while running and see how it behaves. Though if the fluid was all swapped after the incident, you've effectively done this. Was it all swapped then, or just topped up? How much did you add? And also, because this is often done incorrectly, did you check the fluid level with the car a) running and b) after shifting through all gears slowly?

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: Or
Originally Posted By: tookien



I assume that in this case, even after the fluid change/flush and possible additives (lucas etc...), the transmission is a lost cause and is bound to get worse?


Probably... BUT - it's worth a shot to try. If you can do so easily, drop the pan and clean it out and see what's in there. Refill it and then disconnect the cooler return line and empty it 3 qts at a time, refilling after each. After swapping the fluid volume of the transmission (~12qts), check the fill volume while running and see how it behaves. Though if the fluid was all swapped after the incident, you've effectively done this. Was it all swapped then, or just topped up?


Thank you very much.

I'm a DIY amateur car guy, but in this case I had no choice to bring it over to the mechanic (alternative was 2 feet of snow and subzero temp).

I did ask the mechanic if a flush was done, he said "it was all gone", but I think it's possible he "assumed it was all gone".

So he basically installed the cooler lines and topped it off.

No additional pan removal or flush was attempted.

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: Or
Originally Posted By: tookien



I assume that in this case, even after the fluid change/flush and possible additives (lucas etc...), the transmission is a lost cause and is bound to get worse?


Probably... BUT - it's worth a shot to try. If you can do so easily, drop the pan and clean it out and see what's in there. Refill it and then disconnect the cooler return line and empty it 3 qts at a time, refilling after each. After swapping the fluid volume of the transmission (~12qts), check the fill volume while running and see how it behaves. Though if the fluid was all swapped after the incident, you've effectively done this. Was it all swapped then, or just topped up? How much did you add? And also, because this is often done incorrectly, did you check the fluid level with the car a) running and b) after shifting through all gears slowly?



Yes, performed a) and b) for fluid level check, many times and showing correct level.

 

[Panzerman]

Lubegard has a really cult following. I even asked a reputable transmission builder about it locally. Although he said he doesn't really like additive and some are even harmful solvents. He said Lubegard is really good stuff. He said Lucas won't hurt anything, but it probably won't help much. You can find lubegard on eBay or Amazon.

 

[rshaw125]

Which transmission does this car have?

 

[The_Jeff]

Delayed reverse is more of a valve body issue. Valve bodies have lots of pistons and o-rings and stuff.

I'd do another cheapo change then add something to swell o-rings. Lubegard sounds good. I've used that cherry grenadine stop leak goop.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Delayed reverse is more of a valve body issue. Valve bodies have lots of pistons and o-rings and stuff.


This is 1,2 and reverse wasn't an issue per the OP (it is a 4L60E).

It is possible it's not the frictions; a careful look a the fluid could let you know with a better degree of certainty. There are number of things that could cause this - solenoids, hung lip seal, etc. but the fact the transmission was run for a period w/o fluid is troublesome. It depends upon how long and how hard it ran w/o fluid. A fluid change with some SeaFoam in it before the change and Lubeguard added with the new fluid is not a bad idea. It's $70 and might save you a much more expensive repair.

 

[rshaw125]

4L60E ! you say. Then it's a solenoid. Common problem. You can buy a kit to replace all of them at the same time.

 

[tookien]

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
4L60E ! you say. Then it's a solenoid. Common problem. You can buy a kit to replace all of them at the same time.


Thanks everyone for all the great advice.

I think I'll consider also replacing the solenoids, kits not too expensive, may as well.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
4L60E ! you say. Then it's a solenoid. Common problem. You can buy a kit to replace all of them at the same time.


If the oil were not brown after a few months, AND it had not been run dry, then this would be at the top of the diagnostic list. But this is different...

Tookien - Good luck, hope it's something simple.