That's definitely my stance.
Dealership negotiations...
- Thread starter mjk1967
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5,918
On a used car, my suggestion is you ask to test drive it for a couple hours, doing errands etc. I bought a Lexus in 2016 for $14k, and the brakes pulsated and driver door actuator was not working. I never knew because I didn't do a pre purchase and I didn't drive it that long. Luckily the seller, Buick GMC, fixed for free. They used OE on the brakes. But I could have been burned. I always told myself I'd ask for an extended test drive on a used car because they don't seem to care, it's gonna be a decent margin and it's an old car so things may be wrong or non functioning.....go ahead, drive it is what I think they'd say. If they say no, what are they hiding and no thank you.
They were lying.
Even though my office was in Manchester we never set foot in any of that chain again.
Doesn’t work that way. If your score is XXX that determines which tier and promotional rate you get. Like I said, the promotional rate is buy rate and it can’t be marked up.
All 3 new that I bought were at end of month or end of quarter. But its not a for sure.
First, there has to be some good manufacturer dealer incentives, and second the dealer has to be in range of hitting those - if there already over, or there is no chance, then there are no deals really. It all depends on the dealer. You may want to approach more than one if they all have what you want.
Also I was told that some or maybe all OEM's - if the last day of the month falls on a Friday then Saturday is still considered part of that month somehow.
So long as you don't get caught up in the hype it can work out for you. It has for me.
First, there has to be some good manufacturer dealer incentives, and second the dealer has to be in range of hitting those - if there already over, or there is no chance, then there are no deals really. It all depends on the dealer. You may want to approach more than one if they all have what you want.
Also I was told that some or maybe all OEM's - if the last day of the month falls on a Friday then Saturday is still considered part of that month somehow.
So long as you don't get caught up in the hype it can work out for you. It has for me.
But if the score is YYY and they SAY it's XXX some people will bite and the dealer pockets the spread. Who knows their credit rating? Not everybody.
This^ .... Ask to take it to lunch
I did best by negotiation via email. I compared internet prices, quickly came to terms with the dealership. Had the check made out at the bank for the agreed amount. Truly walked in, handed over the check, signed their iPad 422 times, and drove home in an hour.
No funny business, about $12K lower than sticker. Got all the dealer adds on too, for free. Bedliner, wheel well liners, weathertec mats and a few more goodies. Because I requested the truck "As is". They don't remove what they had already installed. Very nice.
Again, not the way it works. One of the docs you sign is a credit score disclosure that shows which of the 3 credit bureaus were used (different lenders used different bureaus - equifax, TransUnion, Experian). There is no spread on a promoted/incentived rates. Non captives lenders allow, at times, a spread of 2.5% on top of the buy rate. I’m speaking to the 0% - ish offers.
When I first walked in they told me about the promo, told me the qualifying score. I checked my credit rating with USAA bank as I was thinking about financing with them. I’m sure lots of people here have additional tales of the “Finance Guy.” This wasn’t remotely my worst dealer experience.
Had a small company fleet so over 12 years we bought four Honda Accords, three Chevrolets, two Ford trucks, two Dodges, a Nissan, and a Subaru. After that we just bought them outright.
I'm an old fart and their eyes light up when they see me coming. After driving the car I'm looking for I let them know I have little patience and hate the car buying experience. I then just say make me an offer I can't refuse for the car I like. Naturally they low ball my trade ( my trades are 4 to 5 years old, very low miles (about 35 to 40K), spotless and no damage). They might offer a token 500.00 off the retail price which they make up with the ridiculous handling fee they all seem to charge. I simply say I can refuse that offer and unless they can be serious I'm walking. I then show them my Blue book numbers for the trade that I won't budge on as well as the lowest price from other dealers on cars.com or autotrader for the same make and model I want to buy. My last three purchases they have given me the trade-in price I wanted and undercut the lowest local advertised price I showed them sometimes by a surprising amount. I then tell the salesman that if the finance/closer tries to upsell me ANYTHING I will walk. My last purchase the finance guy was visibly PO'd but he had me sign the papers and I was out of there in minutes. The salesman actually stood there to make sure his deal wasn't blown. Making it clear up front that expediency is important and that you've done some basic homework really minimizes them jerking you around. (note; here in Colorado dealers must show all pricing, add ons, fees, etc. in their online advertising so surprises are minimized).
I do all my new car buying via emailing the internet manager. I send an email, tell them what I want to "order," and that I don't want a vehicle off the lot. I ask for an out the door price and tell them I don't need or want to come in for a test drive or talk to a salesperson. I ask for their best price and explain I'm not going to go back and forth playing lets make a deal. If I plan on financing I will tell him my credit score and ask for a current rate. If they can't follow that simple email they're removed from the list. The last two new vehicles I bought I was surprised how many people couldn't follow the simple email I sent. Once the deal is finalized I go in, sign the papers and leave a deposit, if and only if nothing changes. When I found someone that followed directions and came up with the right price the deal was painless, simple, and I was happy with the deal.
Does Blue Book suggest 3 prices - dealer, private sale and trade-in? Which one do you "require"?
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5,918
Wow that is amazing to hit production 2 weeks after the order. Our dealer was up front and said to expect 4-6 months for delivery. I think that math is off because we were face to face 5/31. 6 mos is November 30 or December 1. Clearly 2026’s are being delivered then. Sales manager said I don’t want you to be disappointed or upset so I’m saying at least 4 mos. And she did say they don’t have an allocation this week. The acceptance was 3 days shy of a month. If all went well that sticker will say 8/25 production. I want the last 2025!
We’re currently waiting for the TPW. My prediction or over under is September 15.
Your pricing sounded insanely good. Was GMO less than GMS? We’re getting 4.38% off plus $500, and some have said online how in the world did you get that on an order? 4.38% is nothing….(doing the math we got 7% off the 2011) Hahahahahaha
And many don’t think the old days were better…I do.
Btw 7/10/25 is when the 2026s can be ordered…
Yes, GMO was 18% and part of the reason I usually ordered my vehicles. I miss those days for sure.
A lot depends on the model and whats being built. I know some plants like to "batch build" certain models and colors to increase efficiency. Its an ever changing landscape.
A lot depends on the model and whats being built. I know some plants like to "batch build" certain models and colors to increase efficiency. Its an ever changing landscape.
You are old if you're going off of Blue Book numbers for anything.
I do not try to nickel and dime myself or the dealer. It's not worth the time or the brain damage. They always go with the lowest price shown on Kelly, Edmunds, local auctions etc. Kelly usually has the highest trade-in values and I hold out for the "excellent" category value. I traded in my wifes 18 mazda 3 on a new Cx30 7 mos ago. I ended up getting 5K less than I paid for it new. Figured that was a decent deal. Essentially drove the 18 for 1000 bucks a year. During the pandemic I traded in my 16 CX5 and got 5k more than the Kelly blue book excellent value. Thought that was a fair deal as well. As I said the dealer will always use the lowest value source they can and I always go with the highest reputable source I can find (one they can't argue to much with). Since I usually buy Mazdas, I find the Mazda dealers I shop with tend to offer me more for my trade than non mazda dealers will as well.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5,918
Our car was a total loss in May. Nothing we did and it was a comp claim. So when Ma Auto (the guy that lost the Super Bowl) gave us a number, I needed to have some idea of if it made any sense at all. There was a 16 page detailed report (CCC One Market Valuation Report) which looks nice, even noting the vehicle had tri-coat paint which was a $995 option in 2011. But how do I know if the number they spit out is reasonable?
I used KBB private party sale and like you, rated my car excellent, whether it was or not. Insurance offered 85% of the private party excellent sale price, so I felt it was fair. I get how people say it's not necessarily accurate, but neither is pricing diamonds with the GIA report. The report tells everyone what they have, based on standards.
I don't plan on ever looking at KBB again, it was a quick and dirty way to judge the insurance offer. I personally would have thought NADA would be accurate, but insurance paid 14% over the high end of NADA. Let's be realistic, insurance is not stupid. That tells me NADA is a lowballing tool for dealers.
Similar threads
