Quote:
That's effectively what I got in my 1991 Honda CRX. The 1st position on my light switch turns on all the lights that normally come on with the headlights, but doesn't turn on the headlights themselves. And included among the many "running lights" that come on, are a couple of smaller white lights facing forward (which are physically mounted NEXT TO my actual headlights)! And unlike a lot of American cars, my Honda CRX does NOT turn on the amber turn signal lights in that switch position (so I really do get exactly the lights I have at night, except for the headlights themselves not being on).
The really nifty thing about this, is that I was able to switch all the secondary "running" lights (i.e. all the exterior lights, except for the headlights themselves) over to very energy efficient LEDs (and with most of the bulbs I've replaced, the LED modules are actually BRIGHTER than the stock incandescent bulbs I was replacing). As a result, I can put my "running lights" on (1st light switch position), without the huge current draw of incandescent bulbs. And unlike those "stupid" high beam designs (for daytime lights), simply turning on my secondary lights in the day (especially cloudy days) does make me much more visible at a distance (because lights all around the car are lit, just as they would be at night with my headlights on), but still without having any bright headlights to cause glare for other drivers.
BTW:
For the person who thought the extra electrical load from large lights isn't significant, you might be surprised what "running the numbers" says. The number I heard, is that 800 watts of electrical power is just over 1 horse power of mechanical load, _if_ you had 100% efficiency in all conversions. Since alternators, batteries, engine drive shafts, etc, are all considerably less than 100% efficient, the load on the engine will likely be a lot higher than the theoretical "best case" for efficiency (for any given electrical use).
Now, each high beam is about 65 watts in many vehicles, so a pair of high beams running 1/2 power should also be about 65 watts. Add in any other "running lights" (tail lights, for example) that come on, and you are probably easily over 100 watts. At 100 watts, you are talking about 1/8 of a HP drag, _IF_ you got 100% effeciency on all conversions (but probably closer to 1/3 HP or more of a drag in practice, do to the inefficiencies of making/using electricity in a vehical). Now granted, a fraction of a HP additional load isn't anything huge, but (especially on smaller cars, with low HP needed to drive them down the road) it is a real (and measurable) percentage difference in effort needed by the engine. As a result, that extra drag caused by the alternator needing to supply extra electricity (due to power hungry lights being on), will result in slightly more fuel being used. And with some small vehicals, the effect can be as high as a few percentage points lower fuel economy due to the electrical load. And while this doesn't sound like much, even a 1 or 2 percent difference in fuel economy, is enough to make a (small but) noticeable difference in total costs for gas during the year.