Dampers quickly melting on dirt road

I found this impressive. Off road package dampers on 2 different cars melt after relatively brief drive on a dirt road, while non-off-road dampers sort of survive:


I think the main point of that video, is the unsprung weight difference between independent and solid axles, and you can break a truck on washboard pretty fast!
I read a few aussie off road mags while waiting at the barber, and they don't take any stock suspension on a real outback trip, as they all need some upgrades, shocks, bushings, bolts, attachment points, and some trips they have 100's of miles of washboard in and out. Also they oversize the tires and fine tune the tire pressures for the frequency and depth of washboard they are on, stopping when the washboard changes, to adjust the tire pressures, as you can't be stupid with your vehicle out there.
On the subaru forums there's a few guys there that love their forester or outback for how well 4 wheel independent handles forest road washboard and roughness at speeds that their pickups couldn't stay on the road, but its hard on any stock vehicle, "off road" package or not, and I don't like to rattle the heck out of our cars more than I have too.
 
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1. Fat tires! Those are probably 245/60R18. They need at least 245/70 R17. That will take bunch of impact.
2. Bilstein!
3. Bilstein!
4. Bilstein!
5. Better bushings, shock mounts etc.


The Toyota had Bilsteins on it:

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As fast as they were driving and as rough as that road was, I highly doubt much would survive short of remote reservoir 2.5" shock.

They're just doing something none of those trucks were designed for.

The Honda 'survived' but I would say, just barely. I suspect it would have eventually given in if they'd kept the speed and pressures up.
 
As fast as they were driving and as rough as that road was, I highly doubt much would survive short of remote reservoir 2.5" shock.

They're just doing something none of those trucks were designed for.

The Honda 'survived' but I would say, just barely. I suspect it would have eventually given in if they'd kept the speed and pressures up.
I just finished reading the whole article.
It makes sense due to independent suspension. There is just less work for the absorber.
However, interestingly, Bilstein's Tacoma is the skinniest factory offered on Tacoma. Probably contains the least amount of oil and with that overheats the fastest.
 
1. Fat tires! Those are probably 245/60R18. They need at least 245/70 R17. That will take bunch of impact.
2. Bilstein!
3. Bilstein!
4. Bilstein!
5. Better bushings, shock mounts etc.

I agree with the bigger tires, better bushings and shock mounts. Shock brand, IMO, is not as important as long as you have an "off-road" shock with a remote reservoir (special valving), proper fulid for the expected operating temperatures, and cooling fins.

Newer US Army trucks have variable air pressure systems for airing up and down as the tires are your "best" shock absorber and the shocks are really just dampeners to prevent oscillation and resonance amplification.
 
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I agree with the bigger tires, better bushings and shock mounts. Shock brand, IMO, is not as important as long as you have an "off-road" shock with a remote reservoir (special valving), proper fulid for the expected operating temperatures, and cooling fins.

Newer US Army trucks have variable air pressure systems for airing up and down as the tires are your "best" shock absorber and the shocks are really just dampeners to prevent oscillation and resonance amplification.
Central air has been around since the 5 ton replaced the duece amd a half.
 
1. Fat tires! Those are probably 245/60R18. They need at least 245/70 R17. That will take bunch of impact.
2. Bilstein!
3. Bilstein!
4. Bilstein!
5. Better bushings, shock mounts etc.
NO.

Bilstein are garbage. A company that lives by name only, IMHO.

My brother blew out two sets on his Tundra.

BTW This seems like a Ridgeline commercial. And FTR my stock Tacoma shocks (Hitachi??) seem fine after good beatings.
 
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NO.

Bilstein are garbage. A company that lives by name only, IMHO.

My brother blew out two sets on his Tundra.

BTW This seems like a Ridgeline commercial. And FTR my stock Tacoma shocks (Hitachi??) seem fine after good beatings.
I think based on the fact that it is skinniest available on Tacoma, it is factory design issue.
I have never seen issue like this with them.
 
I agree with the bigger tires, better bushings and shock mounts. Shock brand, IMO, is not as important as long as you have an "off-road" shock with a remote reservoir (special valving), proper fulid for the expected operating temperatures, and cooling fins.

Newer US Army trucks have variable air pressure systems for airing up and down as the tires are your "best" shock absorber and the shocks are really just dampeners to prevent oscillation and resonance amplification.
Air system like that is in use for a looooong time.
I
 
Laugh if you want, I know there are better shocks.
Sounds more like Toyota spec'd the wrong shock.

Which doesn't surprise me. I'm sure the price Toyota was quoted for a truly suitable damper was scoffed at, when all they really wanted was yellow paint and a sticker to show off in photos.

Factory Bilstein in my Touareg are good going on 12 years now.
 
The Bilsteins you get on an OEM factory package is different than you get from a shock shop.

A set of mid level Bilsteins are no better or worse than a set of mid level Fox, King, etc. Even entry level 2.0 for that matter.

I dont even like Bilsteins because of the digressive valving.

The OEM shocks are junk on every vehicle I’ve ever driven. Yes I’ve never driven a OEM vehicle with 2.5s.
 
Maybe Tundra too? They charge enough. Seems like there are better choices.
If they ask Bilstein to make skinniest of all available on those vehicles, they will make it.
What is reasoning behind is only guess. Better damping in some situations with less weight? IDK.
But, there is a reason why people put them on the track cars or off road cars. They ain’t cheap.
 
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