CYCLOHEXANONE

I'd the product flashs off at a low temp, would you not want to add it to cold oil (when the viscosity is higher) and start it only long enough to let it circulate, then let it sit a while before draining?

Seems if you add it to hot oil, it would flash off before really doing any cleaning.
 
catch 22.... they work more effectively when warmer
Probably so, but the pistons will get hot even with 30 seconds of running. I don't use solvent flushes. But if I did I'd add to cold oil, run it 30 seconds. Let it sit 15 minutes, run it again for 30 seconds to a minute and let it sit again.
I would not like the idea of adding thin solvent to hot thin oil. Either it would flash off to fast, or drop your viscosity if it didn't flash off.
 
I'd the product flashs off at a low temp, would you not want to add it to cold oil (when the viscosity is higher) and start it only long enough to let it circulate, then let it sit a while before draining?

Seems if you add it to hot oil, it would flash off before really doing any cleaning.
"Flashoff" is a misnomer. The solvents don't instantly or magically disappear at some elevated temperature. In a carrier oil, they take longer to evaporate at this elevated temperature.

But in my view, the whole purpose of a flush is to solve the excess hydrocarbons quickly, evaporate the volatile solvents, and then leave the excess hydrocarbons to be suspended in the bulk oil and filter; hence a drain and filter change immediately after the flush.

Again, my preference is to slowly 'solve' the hydrocarbons with an engine cleaner containing a special cleaning ester (with an appropriate DI package) that then suspends the soft liquified (not chunky) deposits in the bulk oil and filter.

Please notice that few, if any of the flushes, contain a DI package to supplement the chemistry that it displaces. Any flush, without a supplemental DI package, will reduce the performance and protection chemistry of the bulk oil.
 
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Cyclohexane is a common ingredient in gasoline. It's a non-polar solvent so it will only dissolve non-polar deposits. Sludge and varnish tend to be polar so I don't see cyclohexane doing much of anything in terms of cleaning an engine. For that, you need polar solvents like esters.

It has a boiling point of 177°F with an RVP of 3.3 psi so it's not going to hold out very long in a warm crankcase. It's freezing point is 43.8°F with a SpG of ~0.780. Good ingredient for pump gasoline, shouldn't be anywhere near an engine's crankcase.
 
Cyclohexane has a CAS of 110-82-7, while Cyclohexanone has a CAS of 110-94-1; they are two slightly different solvents.

Cyclohexanone is derived from the oxidation of Cyclohexane over a catalyst.

Cyclohexanone is a very effective solvent for varnishes and polymers. Sludge is a polymer.

But don't think a flush containing Cyclohexanone or cumene will instantly remove varnish, as varnish is the deposition of oil vapors deposited on relatively cooler surfaces over time.
 
"Flashoff" is a misnomer. The solvents don't instantly or magically disappear at some elevated temperature. In a carrier oil, they take longer to evaporate at this elevated temperature.

But in my view, the whole purpose of a flush is to solve the excess hydrocarbons quickly, evaporate the volatile solvents, and then leave the excess hydrocarbons to be suspended in the bulk oil and filter; hence a drain and filter change immediately after the flush.

Again, my preference is to slowly 'solve' the hydrocarbons with an engine cleaner containing a special cleaning ester (with an appropriate DI package) that then suspends the soft, not chunky deposits, in the bulk oil and filter.

Please notice that few, if any of the flushes, contain a DI package to supplement the chemistry that it displaces. Any flush, without a supplemental DI package, will reduce the performance and protection chemistry of the bulk oil.
Thanks for the explanation! (y)
 
"Flashoff" is a misnomer. The solvents don't instantly or magically disappear at some elevated temperature. In a carrier oil, they take longer to evaporate at this elevated temperature.

But in my view, the whole purpose of a flush is to solve the excess hydrocarbons quickly, evaporate the volatile solvents, and then leave the excess hydrocarbons to be suspended in the bulk oil and filter; hence a drain and filter change immediately after the flush.

Again, my preference is to slowly 'solve' the hydrocarbons with an engine cleaner containing a special cleaning ester (with an appropriate DI package) that then suspends the soft liquified (not chunky) deposits in the bulk oil and filter.

Please notice that few, if any of the flushes, contain a DI package to supplement the chemistry that it displaces. Any flush, without a supplemental DI package, will reduce the performance and protection chemistry of the bulk oil.
Had 5 qts of Redline to use as a short oci vs a solvent flush to do a clean up here soon.
 
I have put it on a lift or ramps and used an air compressor through the crankcase to blow out stuff instead of a flush. The only downside just like a flush is removing fluid on metal parts. Thus i got more out but lowered it back down to keep from dry starting as much. A couple blows of air got some crud out though but i wouldn't do it everytime.
 
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